N.E.S.E / NESE - No solder module battery packs

Its a daizy chainable sensor. You cant just plug it in. Sensors have their own signature like wifi mac address. You need to read that and implement it in your final code. The stuff works on arduino so its simple but you need means of interfacing between sensors and controller or bms. Module sensors >>arduino or similar microcontroller>>lcd output or controller/bms or CAN output.

Edit: DieBieMS has CAN so it might be possible bit you are in open waters as i have no time for that. Soon i will make my pcb to be inserted mid-print and buried under plastic

4 Likes

Some kind of daisy chainable balance wire connection points would be awesome. I’ve been thinking about this, with all the pcb-per-parallel-group battery builds. It’s tricky doing the daisy chain in a safe and reliable way.

If power (already is daisychain), temperature, balance wires are all daisy chain, it would make wiring much neater and more modular.

Like this for balance wires:

Its possible to do it the easy way. Question is, are you preapred to pay? You need distributed BMS. Look at eMus bms system. Then simple pcb design with spacing between NESE terminals for slaves: net-resizeimage-35 and you have powerfull balancing (1.2A) integrated temp probe and 2 wire interface.

4 Likes

This is the first thought of using ffc cable to mount temp probes:

20190131_213447 and there is 2 types of the probe, TO-92 and uSOP but later one is so expensive that it does not make sense: 20190131_213019 Soldering that many sensors would be total pain in the ass and uSOP being .5mm pitch does not help. So i scrapped that idea, settled on TO-92 and went pcb route as you can have stencil where to lay probes and they are 1.25mm pitch which is workable.

4 Likes

Oh this is good stuff!

https://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/batteries/battery-management

That module is for lifepo4 but voltage range looks okay. $16/pc. But the control unit is like $400+, and additional for bluetooth (50-100?) or display (200+?). Yow.

This mini bms though…

  • 6 to 16 cells
  • bluetooth!
  • only 200ma balance current, but that’s more than usual
  • $$$$$$ I see below at 250 euros

very sexy stuff!

But the more I think about it, the more I think I just need monitoring/alerting. I can balance offline if monitoring says it’s warranted.

1 Like

I think diebiems is good solution. There is no point overcomplicating and spending a lot of money over couple thin wires :slight_smile:

2 Likes

can you make a 20700 version?!

2 Likes

Not likely

Printed 2 samples. Forgot that 2sxp module has long tab and spacer offsets it. Good thing it still fits and the offset is not that big.20190201_163201

20190201_163752~2

4 Likes

I had made a minimalistic NESE module a while back. Not truly “no solder”, because the ends are supposed to be soldered. I guess they are supposed to be velcro-ed to the deck, because I removed the mounting holes. The dimensions are: 83.4mmx74mmx22mm. The height can be reduced further based on the slim design. image
image minimalistic_NESE_1

I made them after I realized how much of a hassle it was to make and assemble these guys image

6 Likes

I was thinking in the open module why not use a nut and a bolt instead of two bolts? You don’t have to relay on 3d printed threads and it will hold the compression better. So you just play a nut on one side and screw the bolt from the other. The spacer in between can be 3.1mm in diameter and no thread. Screw and bolt place in diagolan layout to even the pulling force.

I have 10 of those modules sitting tightened for several months and they are still intact. I just have a hole rather than a 3d printed thread and use a screw with tapping threads. This design works, just that it is a pain to assemble and disassemble compared to box design. Screenshot_20190202-091124

What you are suggesting, in my opinion, will be equally difficult to assemble and also produce a twisting force. But give it a shot, maybe you’ll make it better.

1 Like

ah didn’t know that they were actually tapping screws, I thought they were normal screw. Definitely the assembly would be equally difficult. Well compare to spot welding would still be 5 times faster. What I like of using bolt and nut is that you do not relay on the 3d print part for keep the compression. I will try like that. Thanks man!

1 Like

love that design. Well that little bit of soldering is totally ok. The screw took some valuable space.

1 Like

While technically you’re correct, his design uses structure and leverage very well. It’s unlikely that losing compression will be a problem with PETG printed modules. The “flex” part of the compression comes from those Poron cushions.

You should print a module and check it out.

I mean I was talking about another module. The one @mishrasubhransucame out with. I think thst also his solution is really good and I am going to use it actually since the original NESE module are too big for the board and configuration I want. I am the first one using 3D printed parts but of with the same design and space needed I can replace plastic support with metal, then I will do it. Probably is over killed but since takes the same effort. I will aslo add a little cleft for a zip tie. Probably not need it but doesn’t cost much.

So I made the slim version(how Agnius did) of the minimalistic nese module. it works great except that when using compression tabs it is very hard to put the cover on. The compression is pretty solid atleast in the 4p modules because of the short wall distance. The dimensions are 83mm x 19mm x 74mm IMG_20190203_172717 IMG_20190204_020429

Next iteration will use just 2 screws from the side, something like the design below. It will also greatly help with the compression on the top. Might go with the tested 4 screw design if this doesn’t work well. image

9 Likes

@agniusm, in your designs, the box is what keeps the compression right and not the lid? The lid is just there to keep the cells from flying out? I am asking because i was wondering if i should make the lid strong enough to help with the compression or just enough stay in place.

dim: 77x75(along len of cell)x20 image image image

3 Likes

No. The lid helps with compression. You can see a thin lip on the bottom enclosure where the lid mates. I get away having them thin as they have support to the inserted tab. The greater P count, the more lid is important. Dug up old photo of the difference DSCN1177

5 Likes

are the STL’s for these available? I’m going to buy a 3d printer soon, this will be a great first print

@mishrasubhransu @agniusm