Its a daizy chainable sensor. You cant just plug it in. Sensors have their own signature like wifi mac address. You need to read that and implement it in your final code. The stuff works on arduino so its simple but you need means of interfacing between sensors and controller or bms. Module sensors >>arduino or similar microcontroller>>lcd output or controller/bms or CAN output.
Edit: DieBieMS has CAN so it might be possible bit you are in open waters as i have no time for that. Soon i will make my pcb to be inserted mid-print and buried under plastic
Some kind of daisy chainable balance wire connection points would be awesome. Iâve been thinking about this, with all the pcb-per-parallel-group battery builds. Itâs tricky doing the daisy chain in a safe and reliable way.
If power (already is daisychain), temperature, balance wires are all daisy chain, it would make wiring much neater and more modular.
Its possible to do it the easy way. Question is, are you preapred to pay?
You need distributed BMS. Look at eMus bms system. Then simple pcb design with spacing between NESE terminals for slaves:
and you have powerfull balancing (1.2A) integrated temp probe and 2 wire interface.
This is the first thought of using ffc cable to mount temp probes:
and there is 2 types of the probe, TO-92 and uSOP but later one is so expensive that it does not make sense:
Soldering that many sensors would be total pain in the ass and uSOP being .5mm pitch does not help. So i scrapped that idea, settled on TO-92 and went pcb route as you can have stencil where to lay probes and they are 1.25mm pitch which is workable.
That module is for lifepo4 but voltage range looks okay. $16/pc. But the control unit is like $400+, and additional for bluetooth (50-100?) or display (200+?). Yow.
This mini bms thoughâŚ
6 to 16 cells
bluetooth!
only 200ma balance current, but thatâs more than usual
$$$$$$ I see below at 250 euros
very sexy stuff!
But the more I think about it, the more I think I just need monitoring/alerting. I can balance offline if monitoring says itâs warranted.
I had made a minimalistic NESE module a while back. Not truly âno solderâ, because the ends are supposed to be soldered. I guess they are supposed to be velcro-ed to the deck, because I removed the mounting holes. The dimensions are: 83.4mmx74mmx22mm. The height can be reduced further based on the slim design.
I made them after I realized how much of a hassle it was to make and assemble these guys
I was thinking in the open module why not use a nut and a bolt instead of two bolts? You donât have to relay on 3d printed threads and it will hold the compression better. So you just play a nut on one side and screw the bolt from the other. The spacer in between can be 3.1mm in diameter and no thread. Screw and bolt place in diagolan layout to even the pulling force.
I have 10 of those modules sitting tightened for several months and they are still intact. I just have a hole rather than a 3d printed thread and use a screw with tapping threads. This design works, just that it is a pain to assemble and disassemble compared to box design.
What you are suggesting, in my opinion, will be equally difficult to assemble and also produce a twisting force. But give it a shot, maybe youâll make it better.
ah didnât know that they were actually tapping screws, I thought they were normal screw.
Definitely the assembly would be equally difficult. Well compare to spot welding would still be 5 times faster. What I like of using bolt and nut is that you do not relay on the 3d print part for keep the compression. I will try like that. Thanks man!
While technically youâre correct, his design uses structure and leverage very well. Itâs unlikely that losing compression will be a problem with PETG printed modules. The âflexâ part of the compression comes from those Poron cushions.
I mean I was talking about another module. The one @mishrasubhransucame out with. I think thst also his solution is really good and I am going to use it actually since the original NESE module are too big for the board and configuration I want. I am the first one using 3D printed parts but of with the same design and space needed I can replace plastic support with metal, then I will do it. Probably is over killed but since takes the same effort. I will aslo add a little cleft for a zip tie. Probably not need it but doesnât cost much.
So I made the slim version(how Agnius did) of the minimalistic nese module. it works great except that when using compression tabs it is very hard to put the cover on. The compression is pretty solid atleast in the 4p modules because of the short wall distance. The dimensions are 83mm x 19mm x 74mm
Next iteration will use just 2 screws from the side, something like the design below. It will also greatly help with the compression on the top. Might go with the tested 4 screw design if this doesnât work well.
@agniusm, in your designs, the box is what keeps the compression right and not the lid? The lid is just there to keep the cells from flying out? I am asking because i was wondering if i should make the lid strong enough to help with the compression or just enough stay in place.
No. The lid helps with compression. You can see a thin lip on the bottom enclosure where the lid mates. I get away having them thin as they have support to the inserted tab. The greater P count, the more lid is important.
Dug up old photo of the difference