should be good, but you have some limitations.
bowden makes printing flex difficult. hotend temperatures limit you to PLA, ABS and PETG (not sure on this one for cr10spro).
you say right, but the cr10 pro has capricorn XS tube, better extruder for flex filament eccā¦ Watch hereā¦towards the end flexlible filament tooā¦https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2oD4lktOT4 I have a cr10s and the pro has all the parts I updated along the years.
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@agniusm I am going to buy the tabs for me and my friend. I will need the 8p with both ends that you have on the website, so no problem, but my friend want ot go for a 3p battery. Do you have the same double ends tabs but 6p instead of 8p? Thanks a lot.
PS: I just realised that your domain is .it. Are you from Italy?
LT. Lithuania
I am pretty sure he just has one size i.e. 8p and then cuts from there accordingly. But maybe he has leftovers from someone ordering 2p.
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ahahahah my bad. I mean my computer didnāt help 
But then if you have to cut it no possible to do the internal series connections anymore. Only sinlge module for 3p configuration. i mean you have to solder the other end and have left over tabs, which is a pity.
In my upcoming battery build Iāll use the 2s3p neses for a 12s3p, itāll work when you reverse the poles on the other half of the pack. Then you can use a 6p nese tab at the end to connect both rows in series Edit: Iāll assemble them later and upload pictures
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It is possible. I have mentioned before. You only loose an option to choose where to attach balance wire. With 2s4p you can do that on left or right and with 2s3p and 2p just on one side.
And your computer displays correct for Italy it would be .it and for Lithuania .lt caps would look .IT and .LT 
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I see indeed. Itās still fine. Only the left over tab is a pity but for the rest you can still do it. I was thinking to use the other end for the balance lead connections that why I said it wonāt be possible with one end only. Actually the guy is making the battery for the same deck as you. If you have a special module to better fit the integrated deck would be awesome.
Yeh indeed you only loose the double option for the balance lead. Not a big deal. Yes the domain fooled me 
So Mr.XXX got a cracked case. Donāt jump to conclusions as lots could be happening here. He PMād me but i would like to stay open and disclose every detail:
My first impression was, it prints like shit :D, for a machine costing tens of thousands, its bad And we are talking xxxxxxsys.
Modules are printed in ABS. I sell mine done with PETG so there is interesting data point. Next, i admit that for such mounting and flexible boards the spot where it cracked is week. They were not intended to be used this way but still, its good feedback.
So i have done little changes that should improve that. I donāt know if i will change all of the modules or just the ones meant for skateboards. Probably all, just need time to update and reupload for those downloading.
Here are changes i made and test samples are being made atm:
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Probably in case of slightly flexible deck is better to use the 1s modules since they allow more flexibility compare to the 2s ones. Can be wrong but @mishrasubhransu used the 2s modules and packed them perpendicular to the long deck axis. Then he fixed them to the deck on the side. In my mind in this way the net vector forces are on the side while the modules are pushed downwards when the deck flex a bit. Still better a crack since you can replace the module. In case of spot welded battery you will end up with a disconnected weld and you need to disassemble the whole battery most of the time.
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I didnāt quite get what you were trying to say. Could you explain in a different way?
By the way @agniusm, my way of mounting would reduce stresses due to flex. All the flex will be taken by the flexi-stands. BTW, is that what you meant by āitās not intended to be used this way?ā
Amen!
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I meant that if I remember correctly you use 2s modules mounted perpendicular to the length of the deck. In my mind if the deck is not super rigid then is better to use 1s module since they have smaller surface where the forces can apply pressure and moreover more external series connections capable of flex. While with a long 2s module you have a rigid structure in the middle and when it is compressed, all the stress goes to the side resulting in more chances of crack in those spots.
Precisely. These were the first modules that I printed a long time ago. Now when I redo it, Iāll use the one with a divider in between. Also I donāt remember what infill density I used. In addition, the new chamfer that Agnius introduced takes away a lot of the stress that that thin walls experienced.
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What i mean is that these were not designed to be used as standalone modules. They were meant to be placed in an enclosure of some sort. I did not had skateboards in mind at that time. Ebikes, mopeds, motorcycles and LEVās was what i was aiming for.
Btw, i can see underextrusion at the nut openings, overextrusion at the very top. Its not the first print i see from the xxxxxxsys and they dont look too good. I will need to print something white and share the quality i am getting
The parts are actually pretty good from the printer. Unfortunately I donāt remember what infill percentage I used back then, but layer height was .254mm . Also ABS is kinda brittle from my experience.
Now I just print with clear PETG on an ender 3. Seems to be working great.
I print quite a lot and ABS is good if printed well but PETG has just more layer adhesion. At least that what I get. I sue ABS and I am totally fine with it, but the layer adhesion that I get with PETG is on another level.
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I find PETG to be strong, but when it breaks, it breaks in strange unpredictable ways. I guess what Iām trying to say is, itās not as strong as I expect, and fails in places I donāt think are the stress points.
Any guesses what I am trying to show here?
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