Master Evo | Landyachtz | ABEC 107| 13S5P | FocBox | 6374 190kV | metr

I am still waiting for @Deckoz to try out flip motors to the outside it should fit from my understanding, as there are no baseplate in a way in that place.

Flipping it doesn’t help. Actually makes it worse. Because RKP Hangars aren’t symmetrical in the way they are on the baseplates. The back of the motor at the same height off the ground would be where the Pivot cup is.

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I might try adding a couple speedrings behind the clamp and have to flip my nuts nylon in to see if it will clear with a couple extra mm. I dunno. I’ll probably give it a rest for the day. And come back to it.

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And I’m just sitting here with those drives waiting for my trucks and motors (6374) hoping everything will work out :sweat_smile:

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Worst case scenario return those motors and swap them for same 6355… Also just saw that those 6355 don’t have that 10mm lip

How tight do you run the bushings? You could cut the king pin and use an low profile nut (or cut one in half, done that lot of times) and use thread locker to secure it instead of the nylon nuts

@Kug3lis one way to solve this is to add another gear, it comes with a lot of compromises, but it will make it fit in cases like this, they don’t even need to be colinear, so you could make the drive just big enough to clear the kingpin

Not sure how I’d cut the kingpin

Where my finger(behind) between the kingping frame and the motor is where it strikes. Not the actual kingpin.

This gear(2.4:1) is the largest of the four available, giving the most space here. All other reductions have even less space.

I could probably grind down the baseplate there. But I’ve had baseplates crack on me before, so I’m not willing to do anything structural wise to the baseplate.

As far as how tight my rear is. You can see I run double barrels with tight precision cups, making it really restrictive. So actual movement is around 2/3 to 3/4 of total possible non compressed hangar lean.

I thought you first tried rear mounting, but yeah, either way there’s not much material to remove, especially at the risk of cracking at the speeds you ride

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So I got some coffee. And of course just couldn’t let it sit…

While I don’t think the 2.6, 2.8, or 3.0 drives will be runnable with 6374(as they are even closer)

I’ve added three speed rings, didn’t change any spacers, and flipped my nuts

Here is the old mounting that has 1400 miles with my nuts flipped so the nut flipping won’t be an issue.

And here is the spacing after the speedrings.

Thanks for the speedrings suggestion @Kug3lis I dunno if it will help the 2.6/2.8/3.0 users though…

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kidding. but really, what happens when something like this just doesn’t work at all? I get that its beta and all.

what a bummer. really wanted to see this running!

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Yep, we already worked after getting input from @deckoz on 3 gear system :slight_smile:

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That’s so cool! I read that suggesting awhile back about making it a 3 gear system for added clearance. Seems like a great solution! Would this enable the use of an 80mm motor now?

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I’d like to know if this would work on Trampa trucks, and if so, could you then run the adapter for the Trampa hubs, and also the adapter for the PU wheels? This seems like a perfect all in one solution for geared drives, as well as giving options for the size of the motors as well :heart_eyes:

Hello everybody I made a install guide here detailing the process and caveats

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Great. So I spent $240 dollars on motors I can’t even use…

I am sure @torqueboards would replace them for 6355 ones…

Well since I had all this apart still… guess I better service the motor bearings.

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what about a wider truck wouldn’t that solve the problem?

Yea… but there’s no caliber trucks bigger then 218mm that I know of… anyway I’m finishing up servicing my motors. And then will be going for the first ride on it…

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There she are…

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What about a motor that has a tapered rear end design like these?

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