Master Evo | Landyachtz | ABEC 107| 13S5P | FocBox | 6374 190kV | metr

Today seems like a good day for deliveries!

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Nice! Really interested in hearing about the sound situation with those gears!

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Hahaha right?!? Now I’m conflicted in which of the three boards to work on haha…

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Always worth keeping one that actually works. Which I invariably forget…

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Haha you’re gonna beat me with having it set up. Still waiting on my trucks. Which ratio are you going for initially? I see you also have two sets :wink:

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I have 2.4 and 2.8.

My board is currently 2.4 so I’m going to try 2.8 first. Then resort back to 2.4.

So worked a little bit on the drive last night.

Was a little confused at first. As the provided speedrings didn’t make sense. And I thought I was lacking a spacer… anyway.

Side note: anything mentioned here has already been relayed to @Kug3lis to verify everyone’s kits once they start shipping, and also to provide easier install

So here is the kit laid out. My fingers are pointing to screws, I was missing two. (10/12) and let him know so the counts are right 18e0e0bf4088d36c4e1c140570fd7c306900d374_1_375x500

The speed rings below. 8 copper, 2 steel. Four copper are used to make a spacer, and one steel is used as the outer speed ring on the nut 319088237ce7c635eb79fadcf1a55f6ecdf9fd28_1_374x499

Due to the pulley being pressed into the wheel with an arbor or mallet. The v-ring is slipped on, then the drivebox housing, and then the wheel gear mounted to the press insert. The assembly below slides into the axle and then the case bolts and axle nut hold it all on… d2e707a852cc674bce5fb9773ed1a13d4c0b2da3_1_375x500

The problem I had initially, was trying to figure out how to align the copper speed rings, without loosing any, and sliding the whole assembly on. The copper rings go between the pulley bearing and inner wheel bearing. I forgot to take a picture. But basically where this red surfrodz spacer is…is what the copper ones are for. And then a bearing slide into the pulley seat.

7ba6a0ac7c135773ab553bccd094873b7ed40927_1_375x500 (1)

So aligning them was quite frustrating. So I ended up making a spacer out of them b662728adc697c493777894596b2a6995552fd50_1_374x499 fd3681af92912295b38a388934d96f00dea4266b_1_375x500 6a030cc09a9a1900e72766f428dd9801db4a7c7d_1_374x499

This way aligning the assembly is easy, and you don’t have to disassemble because you lost a speeding in the pulley when trying to slide it on.

So before you bolt the wheel pulley to the press insert. Make sure you install your sliprings/v-ring

Then slide it all together and bolt up the housing.

Above you see the completed housing. The parts I skipped here: before you install the wheel and housing. The motor must be installed. You will need to mount the gear to the press insert WITHOUT the housing, and tighten the axle nut.

Install the motor, and slide on the spur gear, with the motor bolts friction tight and the Spurs pressed as far as they can together, with the wheel torqued on. Take 3 post it notes or 3 sheets of paper and spin it through the gear between the motor and wheel gear.

What this will do with your motor bolts friction fit, is it will slide the motor outward just far enough so that you achieve the proper backlash. Once you do this torque the motor bolts down. And then remove the wheel, unbolt the pulley, and install the housing, resintall the pulley, and bolt it together.

Side notes, this housing is sealed. One of the things I will be doing is removing all of the Buna seals from the pulley bearing, inner wheel bearing, and inside seal of the outer wheel bearing. As there is no lubrication port, the easiest way to add lube that the gearbox and bearing can share, is to just pop off the out wheel buna seal and spray right into the bearings passing through to the gearbox.

I’ll post more pictures when I get back to this after some rides this weekend. I need to cut my motor shafts down to finish the install…but it’s holiday weekend so must rideeeee

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Nice tutorial! Mine are still in the mail, but for other things I usually stick a hex wrench in the hole to keep it all aligned while I put the axle in.

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Me too @b264 But trying to align the 4 speed rings with the assembly together and not loosing one was fucking Impossible lol so I resorted to glue and then used a hex wrench as normal to slide her on :slight_smile:

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K so more on the drive.

The TB motor has a long shaft, which I knew I needed to cut. I’ll be cutting them tomorrow morning as it’s a little late to run the cutoff wheel(loud). But I didn’t expect the shaft to interfere.

The motor Spurs have to have the collar facing the motor. But on TB6374 there is this 10mm section of 10mm wide shaft.

So I had to drill out the collar section of the pulley

Now that it’s drilled out. Testing the alignment. I’ve set the backlash. But need to take the motor off to cut the shafts so I’ll reset it again. But here is what it should look like

It’s hard to tell because of phone camera and shadows. But Basically the bottoms of top angle of the teeth, ie the point of pressure angle. Is where you are setting your teeth.

Boston-Gear

If you set your backlash properly the gearbox should basically be noiseless while spinning. Alot of backlash and your going to have alot of noise and wear your gears.

Hopefully I’ll finish this tomorrow so I can ride it. For reference. I ended up moving up 1 notch on the plate. I have -15 in the back from the Evo, and each hole I believe is 15… so someone running a 50 plate on a non wedged deck would need to move up two holes for clearance.

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Ok now the sadness.

I’ve spent all this time tinkering with things… Finally got around to mounting up with motors on.

So two 6384 fit between the plates… However the kingpin is in the way. Figured this would be a non issue with 6374(true 74) but the motor ends still hit the kingpin during a lean, in both drilled plate positions.

The position that comes drilled is far to low for the motors. Even with the natural -15 on the Evo. The next position up is the height I had my motors when on belts.

I have 2.4:1(15T) and 2.77:1(13T) motor Spurs… The 2.77 with proper backlash can’t even spin because the motor is on the kingpin frame. The 2.4:1, giving me the most space, hits the frame on even the slightest leans.

Basically these drives are unusable unless your total motor length is less then 69mm(not including shaft, which can only be a.max of 20mm long external). Otherwise you will rub or hit the kingpin frame with all 4 reductions (2.4, 2.6, 2.8 & 3.0 to 1)

Blah. Back to belts. Maybe I’ll think of something to do with this… Downsizing motors is a non-option for the Evo.

I’ll wait for the other testers to see if they come up with any solutions. But for now it’s headed to the shelf of parts I need to find a use for… And think of if I really need another 107mm board… I’m conflicted because it’s a 218 truck but really can only run dual 6355…

So frustrating I want to punch pillows. Lol giphy (7)

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Gah! 10 char

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OMG! Bro I feel you pain!

Maybe @Kug3lis will come up with a solution, go to sleep and start fresh tomorrow, impossible things get fine with a good night sleep

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I hear that @psychotiller sells some 200kv 6365 motors

That’s cool. I was about to go up to 6384’s before the drive came about… Drive came about and figured I’d just stick with the current 6374…

Downsizing not an option, no way I would go for less power, when I wanted more power :frowning:

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Understandable. I guess the spacing must be different between the superfly gear drive and the pneumatic gear drive. Pretty sure @mmaner used 6374’s on that one.

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It is. The gearbox is smaller and tighter together :confused:

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Maybe the turnigy “5986” would work for this, think 2mm more of clearance would do it?

Ahh shit man, as we tried on our “Chinese” deck with I guess it was tight trucks so wasn’t leaning that much. Have you tried to mount a motor to outside? We will try to modify design but the problem arises then moving drive train more outside is that there is a possibility that wheel will bite POM gear case as the distance gets smaller.

@Colson003 pneumatic one uses bigger gears and etc so it is more away from hanger and etc. This one was made with smaller gears to increase clearance from the ground.

I got a tip to try to push the drivetrain as much as axle nuts tighten enough by using those copper washers before hanger hub. Add 3 on the axle before hanger mount and 3 on between wheel bearing and wheel hub mount bearing.

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@Kug3lis , you’re designing things so well- why not design a whole deck-to-road system. make your own truck and not worry about configurations maybe? IDK, i’m just determined to experience this vicariously through @Deckoz . I don’t think I’m being helpful, but Damnit, I hate kingpins right now ( @MoeStooge lol ) I’m so emotional right now :(((