I blue parts, both mild steel and stainless. if its not even a mild steel I wouldn’t worry about it rusting unless it’s exposed to a lot. I just sit stuff on my gas grill and works nicely but I do it more for looks.
how will you get the big bearing off @rey8801
What type of stainless steel did you use? If it is hardened heating it to these temperatures and quenching with cause it to lose strength and become tougher, meaning it will bend easier but will be harder to snap
No it’s a mild steel to be ferromagnetic. So it needs to be blued
As you suggested I removed the rear edge so the bearing slide from the back. I hope it won’t get out though from there but should be fine. Do you quenching the parts afterwards?
My bad so you are talking about the can? I thought you were discussing the axle
No the axle is hardened stain steel. Won’t do anything on it. I will just quench the ends that I will mill
Do you know the material number of the steel? I’m trying to find the best steel to use as I’m paranoid about axles snapping thanks to all those metasurf and diyeboard trucks
No I don’t know but I don’t think that is nothing of special. Probably C45 hardened steel.
I think I have left over motorcycle oil but not used one. I also so people using vegetal oil but I guess engine oil is better
Okay thank you
I don’t quench the parts in anything just blue and done. there are some ferromagnetic stainless steels I blue them too.
confused by what you say because the pic shows the bearing retaining wall on the outside so if the stator is on you cant get the bearing on or off no?
It’s just because I did not finish to modify the part. Now is gone.
Although I now realised that I fix the pipe to the hanger with a screw so I will need to remove the stator anyway if I want to change the bearing 
I could leave the wall that was keeping my bearing really well locked.
Hooo yes we want 
! I’m 100% following your feeling and thinking about that 
Really liking it so far
So the only thing holding the torque of both motors to the is that M6(?) screw? It goes all the way through the axle?
Thread locker will surely be applied too
The pipe is hold in place mainly by a m4 screw that goes directly into the truck hanger no axle, plus retailer loctite between the pipe and the axle. The stator to the pipe has keyway and retainer loctite.
Do you think that will be able to handle Bergmeister wheels?
Sure. Planning too actually. First I will use mad Fury with 60Kv with short AT bergmeister wheels. I can’t wait. For the MAD Storm only modification need it is to get smaller Kv motor. These are 85Kv.fine for 85-90mm wheels, more will be too fast. Planning of ordering a pair of 60Kv.
Getting closer. Left side fine done. I am thinking of living the colour raw. We will see after blueing if I like the contrast.
Looks really nice. How are u going to blue them? On the gas stove is easy. Maybe clean with acetone or not in my experience makes little difference. The black oxide screws always seem to rust n bluing stainless screws is nice.
https://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/7/e/7eb42c50e3ac4cf845f9969b2183e369b510df98.jpeg
Urs is different than I thought and if the bearing wall is on the inside I think u have nothing securing it. Think u have to do as in ur pic
