He has name ‘turnigy’ on one side of motor, not sure did he just a put a sticker there, otherwise looks like he have made an adapter and thats its… looks actually rather simple
I do not know that project in particular, but based on my experience is never that simple. Possible yes, but not so simple. Otherwise everyone would do it.
In the motor. How are u going to replace it.
you need to remove the motor can and stator. Not the best indeed. My original design was with the bearing outside but then I felt like don’t know maybe is better to make more solid. Then I place it in between with two flange to stop the upper (internal) and the lower (outer side). I nthis way the bearing seat really straight without possiblity to go everywhere.
Isn’t it stuck behind the stator
YEh just modified now the reply. Do you think that if it is not closed at the back is it fine too?
Much more and it’ll be the same design as mine
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damn it was like that then other guys told me that would be safer in the other way. Anyway easy enough to modify it. I will still need to remove the motor can to remove it but it will go out from the back.
I only need to remove the rear edge
For the other side I will put the lower edge in the other side. Just in case.
I dug a bit in my older class books:
(the text in German is mostly irrelevant, just look at the curve)
the dip in flux at the ends of the magnets is more predominant the shorter it is:
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So are you saying that 8040 motors would be better? Then a AT hub would be the best way to test it. There yuu can go bigger in diameter.
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au contraire, the longer the can the better. Regarding efficiency
Regarding torque the larger the stator the better (+fat magnets)
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Yeh I was thinking from a torque point of view. Well I will give the proof about the longer stator.
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The MAD Fury is taking me a lot of time. But Here the last update… Finished one side and at good point for the other one. The motor can has to shorted a bit to the right size but will do it later. Need to drill precise hole for mounting Pulley ecc… I hope to don’t mesh up everything right at the end otherwise 
Also need to blueing the steel, never done before. I think I will do it by heat it up until it gets drak grey then quenc it in motorcycle oil. Then I will paint it with the rest of the drive. I wanted to keep it silver but it has to be protected otherwise it will rust over time.
As an idiot I pictured addresses too 
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Alternatively you can purchase Gun Blue liquid. Just degrease the pieces and wear gloves, and dunk the piece in the blueing liquid and it’ll form a black oxide layer.
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Yes i know but then it’s really a weka surface protection, while quencing is stronger and goes a bit deeper. I will try if it is too difficult I will do cold blueing for sure. After will be painted anyway.
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Have you considered powder coating? Its pretty resistant to scratches compared to paint
Yes, I thought about it but didn’t want to find a company willing to do it here. Plus I did for my motorcycle few years ago and even thanks to a friend I saved a bit it will still cost me like 100 Euro easy. At that point I would actually by the kit and do it by myself. It’s rather easy. That’s why I wanted to leave it silver to don’t bother about painting that always looks bad after a while.
Motors will get beaten up whatever the paint is on them, unless they are like top mounted The kits for powder coating are not expensive, and you could offer that as an option (I assume you will sell these)
Personally I would pick the raw metal look
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For the moment that just for me. Not sure people want such a big DD. I would also choose raw metal look that will give the bad ass look with wood or black deck. The problem that the motor can in steel to me ferromagnetic and it needs to be covered. If I blue it will be darker then the rest. Probably still nice but different for sure.
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I did it once in used up diesel truck engine oil. The longer it ran the better.
Think temperature of the workpiece was around 650°c when dunking it into the oil…
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