i think I am going to use a torch and then quenching in motor oil. I know I won’t get and even surface but yeh that what I have at the moment.
The screws I ordered all stainless steel, just waiting for them to come. But not planning to use the skate in rain anyway.
For the stator pipe, yeh I removed the rear flag as you suggested it but indeed now I do not have nothing at the back. Now is too late to change it. I have a wall to stop it in the inside but I have seen other motor with nothing out side. I will use loctite to keep it there and make a strong thin wall with epoxy outside. If it doesn’t work I will remake the pipe but not looking forward for it. Then I did not really got how you can mechanically secure the bearing if you only have a wall inside. The only solution I see is to have an additional component either attached to the rear pipe or to the central hanger.
Could you make a piece that keeps it on place be holding the smaller bearing race in place. Something that sits on the truck hanger or on the stator pipe
Yes I can. wanted to avoid to gain space but I actually I saved a lot of space at the end so few mm each side shouldn’t be a problem. Ok I will make a really simple clamp for it.I could even print it. Since it will only keep the bearing in place. Like a spacer, but I will make in alu this time.
Quenching is a hardening process while bluing is just protective. You probably don’t want the metal hardened as it’ll be more likely to crack or slightly warp in the temp shock. The part would then be harder in the magnetic circuit and have a harder time switching polarity and increase iron losses. (Although it’s behind the magnets and really won’t see much switching and likely will just be worse at containing the magnetic field. The milder the steel the better. You just want an oxide coating and can get that from just bluing and air cooling
U can glue the bearings and imagine you plan to but the retaining fluid will eventually break down and the bearing needs some walls so it won’t slide off to the outside or inside. Your design is similar to the raptor or mellow boards I think.
Theres bearing that have a wall integrated into them and maybe easier.
Well I will read more but for blueing still that what I found. You heat it up until you get the colour you want, like dark grey. then quenching the parts in oil, vegetable or better engine oil. That what I found. I used mild steel and is it rather ferromagnetic.
As @pat.speed suggested, I will recreate the clamp with a 1mm ring behind the bearing. The front is well lock, is the rear that without the wall is not well held in place. I will put the something. Not a big deal. Just more machining.
And maybe need a bearing wall for big bearing on the bell if not already
If u made the bell a single machined part and not with the plate bolted on the outside it would be a lot more metal that would be lathed down, and I’m not sure how you even have things, but would allow better precision and strength. Extruded steel with a plate bolted on is maybe mechanically fine but then again maybe it’s fraught with machining risks and work too. If one piece you could machine it lighter, stronger, and more precise. Get some crazy small airgap n make a better motor.
Bearing has an internal wall from the bell. The bell is a single mild steel piece. The bolt from the outside are for the pulley. I did separately otherwise the metal to be machined would be too much and a waste for me. The two parts are really tight together. Probably less then 0.1mm between the two. I had to use an industrial grade lathe to machine those. My mini lathe was screaming…too strong and too big metal piece. With small steel piece is ok, but for big one I used the big brother. Like 1.5 tons of lathe. I love it. Everything feels like butter.
Been a while but this weekend I spent all the free time on it. I wanted ti give it a burst otherwise it will never happen. I would say 70% done. One side spin better then the other. I have to check why one is better centered. I made both in the same way. Anyhow now I need to blueing the can and probably paint it if the colour contrast at the end is not what I want. Then the axle step down and that’s it.
This thing is heavy. Almost 3.5kg…the motor can in steel are massive.
Looks fantastic. You could take some polishing paste and make it mirror finish. Don’t even have to tkae it off the axle, just spin and motors and rub it with cloth smeared with polishing paste.
Are you going to step the axle or just use 12mm ID bearings?
I still have to blueing the steel can so the finish will be gone anyway. I will polish it before do that. I will make it spinning on the late and make it shining. I wish I won’t need to cover this metal but otherwise the can will rust over the time.
Actually more than the weight that I was aspecting it. I was surprise of the magnetic field. With the steel can the outside is not magnetic at all. It really stops everything. While inside the magnetic field is so strong. Never felt something like that.
