metr only works with the modules @rpasichnyk sell. Even if they are HM10, the app checks the MAC address
I had those broken on both of my escapes, I had to order new ones from Mouser but when I installed them back in, one escape did not turn on anymore, unfortunately I had to replace them with FocBoxes as they one is no longer working and shipping it back takes a lot of time.
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Thanks a lot mr. Medusa wizard, apparently both contacts of one and one contact of the other capacitor managed to wiggle free.
I think after fixing it I’ll add some silicon
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That is an impressive eye you have Sir
I’m not sure if he saw the problem or deduced what it was likely to be from the symptoms. That photo was of a different ESCape
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@Eboosted got the same problem a few weeks ago… I just have a good memory and these issues are prone to happen with a design like this one, especially in a high vibration environment.
True that a picture I took from above.
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It probably is true… because your battery probably has a broken series connection…or you have a broke cap…
If the caps stop pissing-off the gangsters down the street, maybe they won’t keep having their legs broken.
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Inboard had the same issue on their board with a heavy component in their board (“spole” in Norwegian… don’t know the English word). I fixed it with resoldering and applied glue to it so it didn’t shake loose again. I think they also glue it in now ^^ Easy spot to miss before something breaks 
an inductor maybe?
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I think I’ll add an external Cap Board from a VESC 4.12 to the Escape and keep the 2 spots inside the aluminium housing empty. This way it cannot happen again. I do not trust hotglue or silicon to be honest.
Keep the wires short then. The voltage spikes amplifies with cable lenght and the main reason for those caps is protecting the components from those spikes if I’m not mistaken.
Exactly, prevents voltage sagging, but I prefer to install a short circuit preventor myself as any issues like a break in a capacitor line above if not discharged correctly will cause spike when re soldering.
I come back to my Smart Ring problem number 709 post and actually after shining the voltage divider bridge the smart ring works at the top. Thank you @Pimousse and @stewii for advice.
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I’m more concerned with the spikes than the sag. These small caps can’t prevent sag but they can even out the peak the esc pwm generates when going off. This is my understanding of it so it might be way off 
@pimousse is the creator of the SR, an intelligent gauge based ARDUINO that informs in real time and choice of battery percentage, speed or temperature of the engine (s). here is the link of the project on the french forum: http://www.e-sk8.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2731
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For nRF2.4 receiver on the PCB, Is it can meet all of the remote that sale on the market or just suitable for specify remote? thanks
You are right Sir, I stand corrected. Too small size, see https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=435335