User names only?
I didn’t request usernames on the form. Just name and emails. And not everyone even provided both of those. Best I can think of is just sending out confirmation emails to EVERYONE with their orders and then making a publicly available spread sheet showing order numbers, completions, and currently building stats. But quite frankly, I’m already working with and updating several spreadsheets now as it is to keep track of everything, and I’d rather not add another element on top of that.
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Sorry don’t mean to add to your work load if it’s that complicated no worries don’t worry about us we will wait with paitience 
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It’s not a huge deal! It’s part of the reason why I print orders pretty far in advance. My average time from confirmation -> invoice is about ~a week normally. The last couple have been lightning fast because I’ve been building like crazy, but I also will hold a remote for at least another week before I consider moving it to the next person in line normally.
Once we get the email, could we change a part of the order - such as the color choice?
You can, but I do start printing the remote at the time of the email, so I do charge $10 extra for color changes on remotes that have already begun printing. If you want to change a color/check which color you selected send me a message sooner rather than later!
Kit showed up yesterday! Super fast for a group buy for sure. What’d be the best way to clean up the print a little? 
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Sweet thanks I was hoping someone had already gone through the trouble and could post a tried and true technique for the remote.
Time for some more research 
I’ll post back my results/technique in case anyone is interested as well.
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Butane torch and a xacto knife is what I use
This prints looks like you should tune your printer first, check this link:
Ah, yes…printing this with a draft will complicate things sadly, unless you can print with dissolvable filaments.
I have to print on rafts, so my first layers will never be smooth as glass. As far as nozzle distance, I’ve tuned it as well as I possible can without crashing it into my build plate. But the Cetus software Jim using just isn’t great as far as user control. Since I can’t use the gcode option I’m stuck with the options the official software has
Yeah it’s the one I ordered from Carlos here. So not a whole lot of tuning to be done after the fact.
I ran into issue number 2 sadly 
The trigger holder/pivot on one of my remotes broke while I was trying to take the trigger off.
Best way to glue this together is probably acetone right?
Oh no! Yeah, a little acetone weld should fix this right up. I’ve had this happen on a few lower infill prints so I’ve been printing at higher infill, but I guess I’ll need to up it a little more or maybe adjust my temperatures for better adhesion.
Are you printing in PLA? Acetone works on ABS but not really on PLA.
That part is trouble – I think it’ll always be delicate with FDM.
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Ace, yeah it is PLA. and yeah, it is just a really delicate area unfortunately. If acetone is no good, hot glue would be my recommendation.
Maybe drill it out and replace with machine screw?
Just printed my remote on a SLS Nylon printer. It looks really good. 
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I just posted a box I made to fit @SeeTheBridges’s receiver module PCB he has bundled with his parts kits, in case anyone is looking for one. I think it may also fit your nano + NRF if you soldered them with wires the old-fashioned way as well:
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