FOCBOX UNITY | Support, Setup & Troubleshooting

You might try playing with this parameter instead for sensorless:

Just to confirm is this issue happening at higher speeds? If so it’s possible it is something completely different, have you tried typing “faults” in the terminal after you ride and experience a dropout without powering off?

What qualifies as a bit of speed?

Also don’t forget to check some things like good wiring with motor conenctors, do you also feel certain it isn’t related to dropouts of the remote? If the dropouts occur specifically only during max throttle it would seem to not be remote related but figured I would double check.

Maybe over 20km/h already? Unfortunately, I don’t have telemetry to back up my claims.

It happens at low speeds without causing a fault. If I push one or two times and then try to full throttle, it stutters. But if I push and then gradually accelerate, it goes fine.

However, I tried to reproduce the problem at speeds higher than just a few pushes, and I got the same fault as @mackann:

image

Between 20-30km/h

It seems to be all good, but I will certainly double check again.

I’ve ridden for maybe 100km already, going easy on the throttle and didn’t experience a dropout. It seems to be exclusively related to full throttle.

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Could you expand on this?

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Great this info is really helpful, thanks. I think the low speed dropouts may be related to the parameter I pointed out to you. The overcurrent issue is interesting and warrants investigation. It’s always motor 1 throwing crazy high currents (132 amps)?

Deodand it is on pc yes windows 7

Do you also recommend I raise the open loop erpm?

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No the raptor 2 hubs should be good as is.

Thanks will try that, it have happend one time on high speed to, going around 40km/h on a board that can do 65km/h and using full throttle and it got a over current cut out to. So havnt dare to try more on that board in high speed, but it happens almost every time on stand still /very low speed when going full throttle. But the strange is that its only on this board and no other board I have with Unity so I start to think it’s just this Unity. I don’t know if we dare to try more on this Unity, I already broken my bone in shoulder and my friend crashed in high speed with it… I got a suggestion it could be a broken bulk capacitors, have not checked that yet, do you think it could be that?

I can’t say for sure yet. I need to reproduce more times but I am a bit afraid of it since it almost always result in an accident.

Yeah wait until you get back in town, we will look at this together

Time to get finished with the winterproject. Everything but BMS is ordered. Any idea on witch to buy? The specs on the board is: Focbox, 12S12P VTC6, Torqueboards 6380 80a. I guess the best solution is to just use the BMS on charging? How do i connect this correct? Or will i destroy the batteries du to no voltage cut? Cheers

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You should make a separate thread, your post doesn’t really belong here

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I have posted this question over in the DieBieMS and waiting to see if @JTAG has any comments but though I would see if anyone here could shed some light on this.

I was wondering how should I wire my CAN on the unity too, two(2) DieBieMS’? I am also wanting to be able you utilize the push-to-start and power switch as a manual option.

My thoughts are to parallel the Can from the Unity to the two DieBieMS’ (canH - canH, canL - canL, 5v - 5v, GND - GND, and the 5v to can enable). Or would it just be better to wire it in series, Unity to first DieBieMS, then Daisy chained to the second DieBieMS via the second CAN port to the second DieBieMS?

That leads to my next question of where to connect the power switch? Either the one that came with the unity on the Unity, or the one that came with the DieBieMS to the DieBieMS’. If I connect it to the DieBieMS’ I have to disable push-to-start on the Unity but might be able to overcome that by using the push-to-start from the DieBieMS’. Otherwise, I connect it to the Unity but have a hard time understanding how I am able to power it up if the DieBieMS’ aren’t on and thus no system power.

Sorry if this is off topic but it kind of relates to setting up the unity.20190309_121931

Hello can you help me to setup up the focbox unity I have an dual 6s lipo 60c 8000mah 480a total I run them in series I have s dual 6374 149kv sensorless 70a motor max total and 12awg xt60 series cable and extension cable what is the ideal setting for my setup also i want to disable the reverse function I’m new to esk8 so please help me!!

Are the mounting holes in Unity stopped by the plate? Also how deep are they?

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I’m running KooWheel hubs with a 10s2p battery and a Unity (it’s only temporary, I’m not wasting the Unity). At speed it will start braking when I push the throttle up, it does it kinda randomly starting at 10mph and I can’t get past 17mph. It running sensor less FOC because the leads for the sensors are gone

Suggestions?

@murloc992 I believe teh holes are not through hole, off the top of my head think 3-4mm

@ZachTetra Redo your remote calibration possibly, what remote are you using? If it is nano-x make sure to run calibration in r-spec mode not slow mode.

It’s just a mini remote I got used, ran the detection and range stuff and it didn’t care for it. It also just shakes if I touch the throttle when it is starting from stopped and it whines when I bench test it

You should contact support to get some help walking through setup @CarlCollins

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Replied to your PM

Hi guys, my Unity is on it’s way to me (quicker than I expected as I thought I missed the 2nd batch) and I want to get the battery side of my build sorted. I need a BMS but I’m confused what the Unity offers in terms of battery protection/monitoring and I don’t want to over spec the BMS and double up on functionality if I don’t need to.

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