Did you find a pin or something to connect a voltmeter to the unity that it get turned off when the unity is off?
Im not sure I understand your question, there is a connector for batterymeter on Unity, 2pin on the motor cable side:
It gives the voltage of the battery and is powered of when the Unity is of
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Ah ok my bad Appparetnly didn’t look close enough to it. Thanks!
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Yea, I’ll get on it.
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Yeah… I was also told shipping in February…im still waiting since November… i guess its a enertion thing…
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Have you guys at enertion or any unity owner been having issues with the unity’s momentary switch causing power dropouts or cutouts? I’ve had intermittent cutouts for a few weeks and only brief almost instantaneous cutouts. I thought it was remote dropouts (Hoyt) until today when I powered the board and the remote on and could not spin the wheels for almost 30 seconds until I tossed the board onto its wheels when I’m assuming the impact with the ground caused a reconnection somewhere allowing me power. Also to further the momentary switch’s possibility of being the cause is the fact that it doesn’t always glow when it is on. Sometimes even tapping the enclosure with my finger vibrates the switch enough for the LED to flicker on or off. Any help would be appreciated!
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I think you have loose connection in your enclosure …if i was you i would open the enclosure and chek … power cutoff can be fatal mate…
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Already checked all the electrical connections. Whatever is left is isolated into the unity and the switch! I’m about to open it up again and see what’s going on!
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I did get few bad switch in the past , not with the unity but your problem can be in the switch it self for sure man !im pretty sure @CarlCollins can help you with this 
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Okay great thanks dude!
Hi all, I am setting up the new Maytech R2 style remote with Unity. I am calibrating everything the way I did with the Hoyt Puck. In this case however, the Maytech does not run the motors until exactly 50% on the trigger. If I lift my finger off the trigger, and the motors are off, then the wheels are braking hard, they cannot be turned by hand. What is going on?
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Can you confirm what push to start values you have set on Unity and power button press seconds?
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Kick push to start is on
Inactive until shutdown is 10 min
Power press for shutdown is 1.5 sec
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I will look tomorrow sometime. Unless the iOS app is out and can view this I’m going to require removing my complex enclosure bolts and manually connecting to the unity 
Is the iOS app out by chance yet? I may have missed it.
I am very confident those values are set at or within 10% of defaults. I feel this way because the board operated beautifully for a couple months but it’s reliability has been slowly degrading over time likely as the power switch has seen tons for vibrations and some water.
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Anyone knows what could cause overcurrent cutout? I have alot of boards and they all work fine with unity, I checked every connection for bad connection but all is fine. I tried change the battery and bms on the board but still same error when going full throttle. I have the exact same setup on another board and no problem. The setup is 12s4p with dual 6374 motors. 80A battery and 68A motor.
The only thing I have not changed is the Unity and motors, could it be something wrong with it? It’s working fine if I don’t go full throttle.
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Looks like your motors and remote need calibration Hoyt remote has really hard to calibrate with Unity, Make sure you are using FOCBOX Tool (not UI) for extensive calibrations
I would also like to assist you remotely if the issue still persists.
There are likely chances that water impacted the receiver, unplug, clean and re-plug the receiver also iOS app isn’t out yet, we will notify once we have it out
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Looks like values are little high try reducing them and also make sure you calibrate the remote pulse as well
I think then this issue will be fixed
This happens also when one or more motors are faulty
Hi Carl, Figured this out. With the new Maytech R2 style MTSKR1805WF the guided calibration will work. BUT you have to calibrate the trigger and then the brake. In other words, squeeze the trigger, and the brake. This new remote works greate with Unity after that!
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