Ok I have ran calibration with it trimmed to zero. It’s looking much better. I was too focused on the endpoints as well as the center. It has a zero midpoint now. However after after 30 seconds of the board on only it still goes to full throttle. I appreciate your help. I have pinned it down to the receiver now. It will not do it with it unplugged. The set failsafe on the receiver times out after 30seconds and defaults to something different. I set it up with slight brake for testing. If I connect remote and turn it off after 30sec the brake turns off and then defaults to 0 input. This is also the case if I turn only the board on. It applies the failsafe brake I set for 30sec and then for some reason after it goes to full throttle. I’ll do some research and if need be make a new post for the GT2b. I’m least making serious progress on the problem now. Thank you so much for the help!!
Please fix the remote midpoint issue
So no iPhone support with the firmware update? 
I just tested my GT2B and it literally goes to 100% throttle in a very short stroke of the remote.
I have calibrated the PPM in the app, it stays at 25% default, I assume it’s the visual bug, but the acceleration curve happens in 2mm of the controller pull. 
The calibration data:
Throttle peaks at 40% of the input. So only 15% of the real input?
EDIT: I think it might be just no-load shenanigans. Sad that it’s not really possible to test throttle curves without a load. 
Is the thermal throttle is better with the update??
Yes, light years better.
The throttling is very gradual and I couldn’t get the board to become slow.
On this groupride I rode my board from full to empty without any major slowdowns. I’m back to the front of the pack.
@Deodand maybe it would be useful only for me, but would be possible to implement the voltage reading with a sensibility up to 0.1V? I don’t have another volt meter connected and the rough 1V reading it’s ok but not really precise. Should be an easy update. Maybe configurable through the Focbox tool so that who doesn’t want it won’t even notice the difference
I will place my ESC in the battery box in the middle of my board I use for my setup dual 6s 60c 8000mah lipo battery I run them in series dual 6374 170kv sensorless 2800w also I need to setup the focbox unity but I don’t know how an what settings I should use also I want to disable the reverse function should I go to an professional or can I do it by my self if I know the right settings sorry for my bad English.
I had my Unity arrive and it’s on my board. I’ve noticed that the bluetooth connection is shotty at best. It randomly disconnects from the FOCBOX app on Android. Certainly not stable enough to (even though I wouldn’t recommend) updating the firmware as it suggests. But the frustrating part is that when I have it on HUD mode, or even just configuring the testings, I find myself having to go back to the setup screen and tapping “connect”. I found it incredibly difficult to setup the Remote because when I went to calibrate, it would disconnect midway through loading the calibration function.
This has been tested with both a Nexus 6P and a Samsung S9 Plus - anyone else having similar experiences with the bluetooth in the Unity?
The bluetooth reliability is certainly something that needs some work especially for longer sessions when riding, but the level of connectivity issues you describe sounds mroe extreme than my experience. Do you have a metal or carbon fiber enclosure?
Nope - straight up ply. The issue still exists even when the cover is not on, too. As an example, when I tried yesterday to update the firmware, it got to to max 6.5%. Would not go past 6.49 and would fail anywhere from 1% Again, I know updating firmware over Bluetooth isn’t the best option, but I was in a jam. In the end, had to go out and buy another USB Type C cable (other one was left at the workshop)
I’ve had issues with my Bluetooth as well. Google Pixel 3 XL. It works… and I did update the firmware with it… but I usually have to kill the app completely and re connect several times to get stuff done.
@701Superjet Glad it’s not just me experiencing it, but mine does sound a little worse than yours, I guess.
I might give it another go tonight and might also record it to show here…
My other question I have is, when will the kick-to-start threshold be lowered? I’ve heard it requires significant speed before the board will turn on using that feature (like 9mph+) - I would rather not risk the opportunity of not having brakes down a hill in town. I reckon maybe 2kmh, or even a configurable limit would be much better. Leave it to riders choice.
This is something that can’t and therefore won’t be changed. It is determined in hardware but mine works reliably. do you leave the house and immediately bomb a hill? My board (raptor 2.1) turns on with two good kick pushes. The key is just sustaining a small amount of speed.
Maybe I will give it another try. Unfortunately yes, the moment I leave my house, I am bombing a hill - no joke. I live on pretty much the steepest street in our CBD 
Not the place I want to test my faith every day. I like to think I have some healthy skepticism when I’m dealing with the speeds we end up reaching and crappy roads and drivers, so the more risk I can avoid reasonably, I will.
I will try the sustained speed and see if that helps the experience. The Raptor 2.1 is using the Unity, yeah?
My friends ESC turns on a little too rapidly I think - the moment the wheels move, it’s on. A happy medium would be good.
I have found my kick to start works off one kick. Maybe takes 5 feet / 1.5 meters to light the button and 15 feet/ 4.5 meters for it to actually boot up and connect. I hate the cheap esc’s with a touchy kick to start. I’m always bumping a wheel turning them on by accident. Not a huge deal but really annoying to me.
I had the same experience as you, after I did a hard reset of my phone the Bluetooth connection is much better.
Hmm, okay I will give that a try - mainly because the phone I am using is only being used for this - but I don’t have high hopes given it’s been two, very different devices that have had the same result. Thanks for the suggestion though!
You might want to check that the BLE module is secured well to the connector inside the case. The double sided foam tape typically holds it in there well but on some units where I remove the module and put it back I’ve gotten some times where it wasnt seated well. Bit of hot glue fixed it for me.
awesome, will try that too, thanks. That will be tomorrows job. Hopefully it’s as simple as that, causing the issue.