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For safety reasons. If something goes wrong with high voltage, it will be only user fault, not the product. Because it’s not rated for high voltage but it still can perform (on bench test though)


just don´t understand the formulation of the phrase.
for me it´s missleading.
it´s written voltage rating of components 50V
but the components are rated to 60 and 75V.
your explanation makes sense, but than you don´t need the second phrase that it works only with batteries till 12s.

ok ok it just was a thought… :joy:


What is done is done when it’s done in case it’s done. It wouldn’t be done if It has never been done.


think so too!


I’ll explain you in Russian then :laughing:


no all good…just sometimes… idk :roll_eyes::rofl:


Jason have you ever read The 48 laws of power



That‘s why…
It’s stupid to discuss about though :sweat_smile:
It’s ok to write that the unity or focbox rated to 12s only.
But not right that the components used for the unity rated for 50v only if in fact they rated to 60v or above.


Ok, so if someone wanted to add a device that is powered directly from the battery, switched on/off by the Unity, but draws more than 300mA, is there any option other than replacing the fuse to accomplish this?


how much power does the device need? If it is in the 1 amp range you can simply bypass the fuse. Keep in mind at 10s 42-32V and 1amp is 42-32 watts so your talking a fairly powerful headlight or something. chances are that connector could probably go to 2-3 amps before is started getting hot.

If you have an even higher power device, does it have input capacitance? If it has little to no input capacitance (less than a mFarad) you can wire the device to common ground and then jump a wire to a leg of a cap or something. This would definitely void warranty though. Input capacitance matters because adding huge bulk capacitance after the switch could effect its reliability, it was designed to withstand the bulk capacitance of the Unity (we tested it succesfully with twice as much) but at some point it will blow the Fets of the switch from too much inrush if you keep lumping more bulk caps on top of it.

An alternative solution is to use an independent switch for your device (a relay maybe, or a fet switch with a simple predriver) and use the 5v or 3.3 v line from the unity as a signal to toggle said secondary switch.


In the video you guys posted I thought I heard something saying the unity comes with a led indicator. Is this true?


I think he was referring to the indication leds on the board (small blinking lights) not an LED screen if that is what you mean. It comes with the ESC, the momentary switch with an internal led light, and a few other small bits. No included battery meter or anything like that.


Oh ok. Thanks for clarifying!


Is it possible to connect 2 (4wd) unity’s using Bluetooth?


by connect, do you mean to eachother or to the app?


Each other, skipping can bus connector


No, I won’t be implementing that either as using wireless is just less reliable and potentially dangerous. I don’t think its worth the effort/risk to eliminate 2 very thin wires attached to the same object. There’s probably applications where it would be useful but I need to pick my battles :slight_smile:


Thanks, I really appreciate your very thorough answer :blush: I am looking to draw anywhere from 0.1 to 1.5 amps. Is the fuse resettable?

I like your suggestion of using an independent switch to control power to my device. I’ll most likely go that route as i know at times I will need more current than 300mA and I don’t want to void the warranty.


Unfortunately the fuse isn’t re-settable, we did consider it but we couldn’t find one with a competitive footprint/price