Hmmā¦ I have a feeling thereās a decimal place error. Itās likely that the engineers at Flipsky originally wanted 47 but then somehow 4.7 is passed along to manufacturing
Thanks for the work on this. I was getting ready to add another set to the fuckit bucket.
Will there be an indicator on the units that itās the newer version? Going to build one for a friend and Iām looking to get these vescs.
Flipsky told us they made the change on March 27.
Original VESC 4 schematic called for 4.7 ohm resistors, so I think they copied the schematic and didnāt realize the slew rate on new MOSFETs would cause such a problem.
Just want to reiterate @nickw1881 has a valid point about dead-time insertion, please do some bench testing before use and let us know if there are any heat issues.
Just installed the Dual Flipsky 4.20. Metr.pro record from a nighttime golf course ride yesterday. Running 12s2p, 65 motor amps 20 battery amps to each 6354 motor. Temperature readings show that the vesc remains cool, it was around 65F/18C outside. Everything seems great so far!
Any visual indicator that it is the new version vs the old.
Itās somewhat very hard to believe that they would replace the components on all remaining Vesc that are in stock to the newer hardware.
Couldnāt see any visual indicators but itās running fine at 12s FOC with 65 motor amps, something that wasnāt possible before the fix
That is very encouraging considering it couldnt handle above 30 amps in foc before.
Did you try hard accelerating and braking? Like jam full throttle then full brake
Yep, I ride hard. Again, Iām only pushing 20 battery amps to each vesc, higher Amos may have different results but so far so good, and vescs are staying exceptionally cool as well.
How many motor amps can they do reliably? I like me motor amps
65 in my experience as mentioned above with my dual 6354
My current un-fixed 4.20 (from your group buy a while ago) can peak at 80A
I have mine at 30/-30 and it cuts out instantly, unless I accelerate REEEEEALLY slowly. Gonna have to do this fix, but damn, itās gonna be a pain.
I have no cutouts whatsoever in BLDC. Only cutout in FOC. Diyeboard 270kv motor.
I completed replacing the resistors on my 4.20 dual (not plus), but Iām not as skilled as some with micro-soldering. If I didnāt solder the resistors right, will the ESC still work? Are there some tests to ensure you soldered the pads well enough? After completion, my ESC works again, but at least on the bench I was still able to get it to shut down by giving it severe inputs.
Any advice would be much appreciated, I need a few beers after doing that job
if the motors spin up, you did it right. Visual inspection of the solder joint is normally enough to see if it is a cold joint or something like that.
Under what conditions are you getting it to fault?
If I go from full accel to full brake, the ESC shuts off, and wonāt turn back on until I power off/on (with a loop key)
Wait, thatās different, so the lights go out completely?
Yup, thatās the behavior mine has always demonstrated