Yeah I am sorry man. The police got my board and two remotes. I ll call them tomorrow when I get back everything, if u want, u ll get a full refound.
I’m working on an accessible adaptation of this remote that does not use a 3-D printer… and proto-shields instead of custom PCB 
I found a very well-made hall-sensored, thumb-wheel that I’m going to try out. For a little extra money I can get a dual-sensored version. The additional hall-sensor is a safety redundancy feature. It requires an different power source and signal input on the feather. Could anybody give advice about adjusting the code to accommodate the second hall sensor. There would have to be some kind of signal to indicate that one of the sensors is not working as well. God forbid anybody would be riding around thinking that they have two sensors when, in fact, they only have one:)
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Haha ok, shoulnt not be a problem to implement this… at least in the code.
Thanks for the reply:) And great remote. I have a few remote projects that I am working on using the Feather M0. I look forward to sharing them soon.
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The initial wiring problem is pretty big. There isn’t a secondary power source. There are plenty of inputs. The ground is common. Just no second power source… I think. Here is a link to the switch if you or anyone else is interested https://ruffycontrols.com/msa-series/ They are used in military and aerospace applications. Accuation and spring force can be customized.
Hello, i was just wondering if there is a schematic for the wireing so i could make my own pcb?
Come on… Read the title…
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I read that, but i didnt know if their was a schematic. I clicked on the pcb and there is a gerber file which i could work from but a schematic is better.
Got my feather remote in, did a test ride and it’s amazing how many times this thing disconnect super annoying, it’ll vibrate and show “estop” with a timer, has anyone had any issues with the remote disconnecting or maybe something is wrong or need to upgrade the software or maybe this remote isn’t made for big cities like SF with lots of interference… i think I’m going back to my firefly if I can’t fix this problem …
I ll write u per PM
Can you let me know what you said in a PM to me too?
I bought one in the recent batch but I haven’t had chance to use it yet as my board is in pieces until mid April. This is the second occasion in as many days that I’ve heard that there’s issues with the connectivity so I want to get ahead of the curve if there are things I can do to ensure it works, first time.
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I ll write an guide if u have connection issues…
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I’m super curious if anyone had this issue with connectivity on the feather remote it’s super annoying riding around with vibrating dildo all the time 
i live in SF with freaking hills would hate for this remote to cut out completely or even at high speeds… please @StefanMe send over that guide or anything I need to do …
Yes I did. I had to route my remote antenna to the lanyard holes. This was suggested by the man himself, @StefanMe
And to be safe, I upgraded receiver antenna to this. This is on a hummie deck that I believe has CF layers.
I don’t want to speak on your particular issue but my first batch remote did the same thing
I almost upgraded my remote antenna to that link but routing the remote antenna through the lanyard holes fixed my issue.
Those look to be 2.4ghz , the feather runs on 915
It is on 915mhz.
I take it you cut the antenna to the proper length