But to make it correct you should do a complete motor detection again and change the TC value to 750 so that the values get calculated correct for the faster switching.
And it is no garanty that it works better. The motor will become more silent but it is also more stress for the mosfets. So in theory they should become a little warmer and be less efficient. But i couldn’t experience a difference in temperature or efficiency. But the motors run much better. But this is at your own risk and i only can recommend it for 63 motors. No experience with other motors.
If your motors don’t have any issues then you should not change anything. Mine had faults and vibrated. With the new values i never had a single fault. But i think that really depends on every different motor.
tested your app and firmware a bit and so far i realy like the watt mode. feels so much more natural and my baord doesnt want to throw me off just when starting anymore. those nano remotes can be real twitchy ^^
I know what you mean, I used a nano v2 and when compared to my benchwheel using the exact same settings, braking on the nano nearly throws me off every time I engage it where as the benchwheel is smooth sailing. I think I need to increase my deadband and decrease my motor min. Unfortunately, switching over to watt mode didn’t change anything in regards to braking for me.
I haven’t really noticed a difference with watt mode yet, though I haven’t been anymore than 1/3 throttle since I’m simultaneously testing the nano v2 remote and don’t want to street my face. I’m glad this F/W has throttle curve support though so if my setting adjustments don’t help with the braking, I’ll simply adjust the curve.
I just received my HM-10, and the 7 pin connector will arrive this Thursday, so I’m getting ready for the app. A few questions:
I read from 2 different people on which V to use. Is it 5V or 3.3V?
I need to buy an Android phone, as I have an IOS. Can anybody recommend a good cheap android 5 or higher phone? Will an android tablet work just the same? I found this at Best Buy for $50 and it has Android 6.0 Marshmallow. Will it work?
Just have a look at the backside of the Bluetooth module. Mostly they have the writing on them that they work from 3.6V till 6V. So you need to connect them to the 5V in most cases. If ou see 3.3V then connect it to 3.3V on the VESC. But most modules only work at the 5V pin.
I bought the HM-10 that you shared the link with above. I can figure out the 5V and ground, but what about the other 2 wires? Here’s the best pic I have of the Enertion VESC-X, and it’s not labeled RXD and TXD
Am having trouble getting the app version 1.30 to display values. Have tried 2 Bluetooth modules on a vesc x and a vesc 4.12. Initially this worked, now the app connects, but displays no data.
Have ordered more Bluetooth modules to try but can anyone suggest anything?
Connected to 3.3 volt supply.
Rx and tx are crossed.
Restarted phone.
Updated app.
Tried different Bluetooth units.
Vesc is running acks firmware.
App is set to ppm and uart - tried uart only
baud rate is 9600
really doesn’t help that the pinouts are different between the enertion vesc and vesc-x
Darn. Looks like it’s an issue with my sony xperia z2 - vesc x works on an old samsung note 3
Vesc 4.12 doesn’'t.
@Ackmaniac is it possible to get an older version of your app ?
Got it. App wouldn’t update on my sony so uninstalled, re-installed, It then worked on the vesc-x.
Faulty bluetooth module on the vanguard. They both show up as BT05 so when I thought I had tested both I must have mixed them up. Just having trouble changing from the default mode now.
Yesterday I was helping a friend to connect his hm-10 module to his board, I tried to do it first from my phone, I was, at the moment, connected to my own board via vesc monitor and at the same time tried to connect to his HM-10 right away my master VESC was blown, not even the blue or pink light flashing.
Has anyone got a similar problem, blowing a vesc because of strange behavior of the hm-10 module?
Please give a detailed description what you did. But you can’t connect to 2 modules via my app. Because when you go back from the realtime screen to the devices screen you close the connection to the previous module. So you can’t be connected to 2 devices at the same time. And there isn’t a chance to kill anything by only being connected.
I made a change to the firmware bin file which fixes a glitch in the sources that also exists in the original software. When the motor max is set to a very low value in FOC and the motor min is set to a high value the maximum brake power is the moor max value instead of the motor min value.
This is fixed in this version. this way you can give the board to beginners and allow only very little power while the brakes still can be strong.
For example in my Police mode i want the power to be extremely weak while i still want full brake performance if something stupid happens.
If motor max is higher or the same as motor min you won’t have issues with the old version. But if you use modes like i described then it would be useful to change.
The version number is still the same and also BLDC-Tool did not change.
With the app of course. That’s how the mode looks like as a example. But you can crate your own modes to whatever you like.
But in FOC if you set the motor min lower than motor max (ignore the - sign) then you need the latest change i released yesterday. This bug that motor min can’t be lower than motor max in FOC also exists in the original firmware. In BLDC mode it works fine.
Have ordered more Bluetooth modules to try but can anyone suggest anything?
