So the question becomes is traction control a feature worth having since Y splitter would probably be safer.
First a big thank you for this awesome firmware. I installed 2 vescs on my Leiftech, set it up in watt no reverse with break mode and I must say it really unleashed my riding.
When I first set it up I had a weird issue though, not sure if it could be due to the firmware or something else but since I resolved it by tweaking just one firmware setting I thought it would probably be good to let you know about it.
My master motor was stuttering a bit at low throttle while the slave motor was running smoothly. Increasing the throttle past a certain point and both motors were running right. https://youtu.be/Ln4v_Jo1ETs
This was with traction control disactivated. The issue disappeared when I tried to activate it. I then rode one hour with traction control, then I disactivated it again and the problem did not reappear. I’ve ridden for 5 days now without any other issue.
some screenshots from the master vesc settings : https://s1.postimg.org/7uv5ucle4v/motor.png I’m aware I’d forgotten to setup the battery cutoffs https://s1.postimg.org/4awgqdc633/bldc.png https://s1.postimg.org/4ktrr6edov/app.png https://s1.postimg.org/72v1qsbaof/ppm.png
I did not try running the motors with the stock firmware previously so I have no Idea if this is firmware related. Just wondering where this could be coming from.
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Shot in the dark as dont see all your settings, if using Canbus instead of split PPM did you set slave VESC to send status over CAN?
Yes the slave sent status over can and no split PPM. The issue only appeared on the motor connected to the master VESC. I did not think about filming the realtime plot, I would have if the issue had not disappeared after my first shot at troubleshooting, which was to enable traction control. There was no fault reported. At the time I thought it more probable that it was caused by a bad slipring connection (I had just sanded and painted the extension patch right next to the slipring cover), but since the issue disappeared just by enabling traction control I think that hypothesis less probable.
Can someone clarify why you would want to limit watts? Right now I have mine maxed at 1300w and I wonder if I’m hindering my top speed.
Also on hybrid mode I’m getting one motor spinning up way slower than the other. I’m fairly sure that I calibrated correctly. Maybe just motor positioning in between the phases creating a discrepancy? Maybe activating traction control would help?
You’re capping your max power output, but not top speed (unless power is not sufficient to get to said speed). I don’t see any reason to cap power output myself, so I don’t use it. I don’t think the motor spinning up slower has anything to do with hybrid mode, but have you tested it on the other two (sensored/unsensored) modes?
I wonder if my 12s dual 6374 setup even comes close to pulling 1300w per motor anyhow. I’ll uncheck the limit and see what happens as my top speed so far has been 34mph (GPS) and that could’ve been on a slight downhill IIRC. The calc says 35.4 seen here… anyone know what the rider weight factored into this calc is?
As far as the motors not starting at the same time I wasn’t saying it had anything to do with hybrid mode. All that means I guess is that sensored BLDC it does this. It probably would be a good idea to try FOC and see if it does it as well. Might be me calibrating in the wrong order or something. Also something to note… I did it with the belts off, as obviously belt tension can be an outside factor.
That’s what efficiency is for. You only can guess what the top speed might be and the calc only displays top theoretical speed. Looks like you’re pretty on target though. Pretty sure you won’t be getting any difference in top speed. You will pull a lot of watts when hard accelerating or climbing hills, but at speed, you’re pulling a lot less current, and thus, wattage.
Any help? I tried uploading your firmware with your BLDC Tool, but when i have uploaded it, it acts like nothing has happened. It just says that too old firmware. And i have confirmed that it still has the old firmware in it, since it works just like before. Same thing with Linux or Windows versions and Vedder’s version.
Seems that you have a Maytech VESC. So you would need a STMLink to install the bootloader
EDIT: Oh, i couldn’t even imagine that a device can work without an bootloader. Strange that it isn’t installed by default…
No it’s not the exact same! Manufacturers make people believe its the same, by calling it the same. Many VESC-based controllers use cheap components to save some $ in production. The design of the VESC by Benjamin Vedder doesn’t like that. In addition some Manufacturers don’t install the boot loader, so customers can’t easily drop on different FW.
Vesc-tool will be put soon and it has a bootloader upload funktion, so the ST-Link is not needed in future.
If it’s a cheap piece of HW you bought, expect it to
Frank
@Ackmaniac is there a way you could have an odometer built into the esc itself so that you could keep miles logged without having to pair to the bluetooth app?
Right now I’m using the metr app (i have iphone) and the only way I can keep total miles is if it is running while I’m riding.
The issue is that the EEPROM storage of the VESC only has a limited amount of writes (roughly 100000). So it would be possible to track it there but if you save for example every 10 meters then the VESC’s storage might fail after 1000 km because you reached 100000 write cycles. Next problem is that the EEPROm storage can fail or is very likely to fail when you save the data while the VESC get’s disconnected from the battery. Then all the data could be lost. So in theory it is possible but it also has some risks.
Is there any other way to do this or is that pretty much what would have to happen to be phone free and still log miles?
You don’t have an app that works with iphone do you? Right now I’m using the metr app with my bluetooth and the mileage tracking is all over the place. Some times it is accurate others it will say i rode 500 miles in one log.
if its just about logging miles and beeing phone-free: you could use a SIGMA bike computer with odometer, the can log all kind of stuff and load it into a special training-log-data software via usb-dock. (if you use a wireless SIGMA you can even mount it onto your remote and have a wireless tacho then, thats what i did)
another fancy possibility would be to install a data logger like the elogger (eagle-tree) or the the unilog (SM) than you could log V,A,Ah,SeaLevel,RPM,Speed,Temperature,…
greets Notger
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Info on the sigma setup?
If the wheels spin faster with no load in watt/current mode, wouldn’t losing traction make the wheels spin at top speed losing even more traction. I’m pretty sure that’s how I ate it going over a slippery surface at slow speeds. And at performance day there was a lot of boards losing traction and I wonder if this mode contributed to the problem.
it only goes full speed when of the ground, but once it touches down, load will increase and it’ll rotate normally again. Doesn’t cause a jolt for me