Extended BLDC-TOOL with Watt Control Mode, PPM Cruise Control, individual Throttle-Curve and Android App

Can someone clarify why you would want to limit watts? Right now I have mine maxed at 1300w and I wonder if I’m hindering my top speed.

Also on hybrid mode I’m getting one motor spinning up way slower than the other. I’m fairly sure that I calibrated correctly. Maybe just motor positioning in between the phases creating a discrepancy? Maybe activating traction control would help?

You’re capping your max power output, but not top speed (unless power is not sufficient to get to said speed). I don’t see any reason to cap power output myself, so I don’t use it. I don’t think the motor spinning up slower has anything to do with hybrid mode, but have you tested it on the other two (sensored/unsensored) modes?

I wonder if my 12s dual 6374 setup even comes close to pulling 1300w per motor anyhow. I’ll uncheck the limit and see what happens as my top speed so far has been 34mph (GPS) and that could’ve been on a slight downhill IIRC. The calc says 35.4 seen here… anyone know what the rider weight factored into this calc is?

As far as the motors not starting at the same time I wasn’t saying it had anything to do with hybrid mode. All that means I guess is that sensored BLDC it does this. It probably would be a good idea to try FOC and see if it does it as well. Might be me calibrating in the wrong order or something. Also something to note… I did it with the belts off, as obviously belt tension can be an outside factor.

That’s what efficiency is for. You only can guess what the top speed might be and the calc only displays top theoretical speed. Looks like you’re pretty on target though. Pretty sure you won’t be getting any difference in top speed. You will pull a lot of watts when hard accelerating or climbing hills, but at speed, you’re pulling a lot less current, and thus, wattage.

Any help? I tried uploading your firmware with your BLDC Tool, but when i have uploaded it, it acts like nothing has happened. It just says that too old firmware. And i have confirmed that it still has the old firmware in it, since it works just like before. Same thing with Linux or Windows versions and Vedder’s version.

Seems that you have a Maytech VESC. So you would need a STMLink to install the bootloader

EDIT: Oh, i couldn’t even imagine that a device can work without an bootloader. Strange that it isn’t installed by default…

No it’s not the exact same! Manufacturers make people believe its the same, by calling it the same. Many VESC-based controllers use cheap components to save some $ in production. The design of the VESC by Benjamin Vedder doesn’t like that. In addition some Manufacturers don’t install the boot loader, so customers can’t easily drop on different FW.

Vesc-tool will be put soon and it has a bootloader upload funktion, so the ST-Link is not needed in future.

If it’s a cheap piece of HW you bought, expect it to

Frank

@Ackmaniac is there a way you could have an odometer built into the esc itself so that you could keep miles logged without having to pair to the bluetooth app?

Right now I’m using the metr app (i have iphone) and the only way I can keep total miles is if it is running while I’m riding.

The issue is that the EEPROM storage of the VESC only has a limited amount of writes (roughly 100000). So it would be possible to track it there but if you save for example every 10 meters then the VESC’s storage might fail after 1000 km because you reached 100000 write cycles. Next problem is that the EEPROm storage can fail or is very likely to fail when you save the data while the VESC get’s disconnected from the battery. Then all the data could be lost. So in theory it is possible but it also has some risks.

Is there any other way to do this or is that pretty much what would have to happen to be phone free and still log miles?

You don’t have an app that works with iphone do you? Right now I’m using the metr app with my bluetooth and the mileage tracking is all over the place. Some times it is accurate others it will say i rode 500 miles in one log.

if its just about logging miles and beeing phone-free: you could use a SIGMA bike computer with odometer, the can log all kind of stuff and load it into a special training-log-data software via usb-dock. (if you use a wireless SIGMA you can even mount it onto your remote and have a wireless tacho then, thats what i did)

another fancy possibility would be to install a data logger like the elogger (eagle-tree) or the the unilog (SM) than you could log V,A,Ah,SeaLevel,RPM,Speed,Temperature,…

greets Notger

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Info on the sigma setup?

If the wheels spin faster with no load in watt/current mode, wouldn’t losing traction make the wheels spin at top speed losing even more traction. I’m pretty sure that’s how I ate it going over a slippery surface at slow speeds. And at performance day there was a lot of boards losing traction and I wonder if this mode contributed to the problem.

it only goes full speed when of the ground, but once it touches down, load will increase and it’ll rotate normally again. Doesn’t cause a jolt for me

Once you lose traction wouldn’t that pretty much be no load or am I tripping. So if you’re in a dirt path just as a example and your wheels start spinning from traction loss wouldn’t the wheels want to spin faster

Please read it yourself… I use this one http://sigmasport.com/en/produkte/fahrrad-computer/wireless/wireless/bc1416sts

It’s no Rocket-science, you add a magnet to the wheel, a odometer to the Truck and the Display to ?? yourself. Then you would need the usb docking station from Sigma to read the data from the Bike-Computer (or i think a smartphone would also work to read teh data via bluetooh)

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yea but current at that point is low, once load returns current will still be low so it shouldn’t cause an issues

Once traction is lost on dirt with urethane it’s not easily regained. So if you’re not expecting loss of traction and you’re still on the throttle the wheels could potentially spin faster which means even less traction.

Broke the can receiver on one of my vesc. replaced the chip, and now when I try to do “can fwd” bldc shows "no firmware can be read/load ) something like that. Any thoughts?