What mounts are you using. I’ve found that If I turn my motors inwards, i hardy get any clearance.
How much clearance do you get with this setup is what I’m interested in knowing. Also love the channel for the cables. Maybe i need to use a bigger riser?
Bookmarked! I tried using a wedge but It just killed the turning of my board so I took it out. BTW I still have to show you my complete build 
Hey Alan and @ducktaperules is this happening? is somebody sending Alan a carver deck to model off? I would also be happy to pre order as well, for a 20700 carver deck enclosure. I would send my carver deck but its impractical as I’m in Australia. Thanks for the updates guys. Keep me posted.
I don’t have a Carver deck at the moment in order to develop a DS enclosure, however I do have a HolyPro, today I tried to male an enclosure for 20700 and they are too think to be held below the deck, the deck is too narrow. Tomorrow I might give it a new try
after a long time looking at the cost and performance of 18650 and 21700 cells i ended up coming to the conclusion that a 12s4p 18650 was the best “bang for buck”. 21700 would give more Wh but at an increased cost per Wh and increased weight. Then at about the same time i as looking kaly made his enclosures available through his website so i ended up ordering 2 of his 18650 enclosures for the carver. he also has a 21700 version but it only fits the hs11/holypro. the kaly enclosure is cheaper but shipping costs more, as i was buying 2 i only pay shipping once.
Red = Focbox
Blue = BMS
Yellow = P Group
Would this be a way to fit a 10s4p in a Spud SS enclosure?
If you go that route, know that arranging a P group down the side like that will require copious amounts of fishpaper between the cells to keep it from vibrating a short into the system.
It seems like the only way to fit a 10s4p in it.
Is there such thing as too much fish paper?
If not Ill just cover it 2 or 3 times?
The wires you’ll need to run down the sides of the P-group have to be insulated too. So much insulation. There isn’t really a such thing as too much fishpaper, but beyond 3 layers I’m not sure how much you’re gaining. It’s mostly that there will be a bunch of little things that can’t touch a bunch of other little things
Ill run it in a snake like fashion to minimize the amount of long running wires.
I would install a 12s3p and if you can I suggest you mount a 12s3p made of Sanyo 20700 to build a freaking rocket with 90A of discharge
Would there be much difference between a 10s4p and a 12s3p
I kinda want that extra range but It sounds like its not worth the hassle so I might do the 12s3p
12s3p will also give more range than a 10s3p and the board will be more fun to ride. But the 12s3p made of NCR20700A would be my choice
I would be using the mocheil cellls from the flash sale I got 40.
It would be a single drive 6384 200kv (From DickyHo) 15/36 on 90mm wheels and Im hopping I can get at least 15 miles of range.
Ill sleep on it and decide between 12s3p and 10s4p
Im in a similar boat, I thought the 10s4p would give more range, please let me know what you decide and why @yelnats8j @Eboosted Also look at this thread
A 12s4p is the perfect battery, it will also give you more range than a 10s4p and will accelerate way faster, people always think than going 12s vs 10s will make your board to ride at extreme speeds that’s not correct at all, I regularly read people comments saying “I’m not going 12s because I don’t plan to run insane speeds”, as if the only variable to run fast is the battery and nothing more.
You could run a really fun board by going 12s and using a really high gear reduction. For instance, on my Sidekick I run 12s5p on 2:1 gear ratio, 190kv motors and 85mm Caguamas, max speed is 51km/hr and the full throttle acceleration puts a smile on my face everyday.
What about the strain of 12s on the VESC?
Old mith. Get a unity or Focbox and forget about strain forever