Jared, what’s the kick angle on the boards you made me? It’s absolutely perfect imo for a 37” deck. That deck also handles 85mm wheels on loose 50 degree caliber trucks with .5 inch raiser, no problem. On tighter trucks I ran .25 inch raiser without wheelbite. 90mm wheel would almost certainly require .5 inch raiser.
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- What is the angle of the board when you’ve touched the tail to the ground with your setup?
Haha! Can I borrow a protractor?
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There’s an app for that. Download a bubble level.
Guys, I’ve been pondering deeply what I want to ride first. I love the microdrop doobie mold, but to be honest, I’m not keen on making a 12 ply board for myself. I realized what I really want is to have a huge skateboard. I want a nose to be able to tick tack over stuff like train tracks, and to be able to let the balls hang with the wide stance riding. This board is what I am pondering for my hopeful Raptor 2 setup.
Before I go any further, please don’t think I am putting another idea down in order to raise this one. I am not doing that. I am making another board which will be awesome AF, on top of the other designs I’m also doing.
This deck for me would be the perfect raptor deck. I am not sure if it will be able to be mounted onto the bottom of the deck, due to the concave. but I might actually glue wood onto the bottom and then route it flat. Or just use some choice washers or something in order to keep the battery mount nice n flat. I don’t like the idea of cutting through the main structure of the board. (I’ll do it but I’d rather do it this way).
This deck will be roughly as thick as a 9 ply deck, but it’s going to have fiberglass on top and bottom along with a bamboo/maple hybrid layup, which will create a VERY stiff configuration.
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I like it. I’d ride that
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For those interested in the Adam0311 38 Dasher the price is 145$ plus shipping with no bulk discounts of more than 10 bucks. Specs:
Just shy of .5” (12.7 mm) Drops begin coming down at 23.5 on center on the deck with a nice flow you can stand all over. The kicks are 6.5 long at 18 deg.
W concave in the platform about 19 long which will help strengthen the deck because the middle ridgeline will not be cut.
Max width 9.9” with a mildly rounded top rail which can be made more round for those who won’t want as steep of concave.
Concave- 2” flat bottom elliptical medium height. (3 out of 5.) about .5 give and take due to the directional shape.
8 ply in this case. (Any layup available)
Enclosure-flat route through 1.5 to 2.5 plies (can do whatever here for other customers too)
I plan to have it cut tomorrow. Might machine a fixture for doing this but I don’t feel like vertical fixturing the pieces I’d need to do it by machine so it will be by fiixtured by hand some how and cut on tue cnc with a big 2.5” flat end mill in small passes stain and clear coat.
Besides the enclosure the deck is hand built. Hand drilled hand cut hand cut wheel wells and as always hand glued for your long term driving habits and don’t worry about riding it in rain because even if you get through the clearcoat maple is just hard and our laminations are great.
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That’s a great price. Love to see the finished product. What price are you thinking roughly on the big 42
I’ll know after i have cut one.
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That’s really awesome. I like the wide nose and the long tail. A lot.
This is the board I’m cutting out today… Gonna do a bit of a relief down to around the middle fiberglass ply, and bolt this enclosure down, and turn this board into a monster truck. (At the customers request).
Catch you on the flip side. Then the one after that is the Adam0311 board.
Also today, or over the weekend Jordy will be pressing a few eskate blanks both in the doobie mold and the huge DK mold. Updates impending.
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Looks KILLER
Ok the battery enclosure is cut, but now I have a wild idea. I want to lighten the deck as much as possible. 8 plies of wood with CF top and bottom and FG in the middle is going to be very stiff. I want to cut some cool stuff into the board. Change my mind.
I just accidentally sent this to a memeber who messaged me, and it’s not letting me post “it” again… I guess it’s an anti spam. Maybe adding this text makes it go away.
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Welp, I did the thing. I imagine it saves just a little bit of weight. Maybe no more than an 8th of a lb. Whatever, it looks mean.
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Next up are the Adam boards. The two blanks i want to test are going to be pressed over the weekend. I’ll begin the Adam0311 CNC fixture tonight hopefully, and might even cut that board out. Just gotta be able to mount it flat on the table. If anyone has any good ideas for that, feel free to come have some beers, and help figure it out.
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I found the best way to fixture this down with a 2x3 and some screws. About to go for it. We’ll see how well this works. I’m using a 2.5" end mill called a flycutter, and have 3 paths programmed at variable depths according to where I think it should be.
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While all you were out partying I was having my own little party. Got 3 boards prepped for batteries. The two Adam boards were not as precise or repeatable as I wanted them to be, so I won’t be doing more hand built boards with bottom routes for enclosures. These two were the canaries, and the both died. Well, they’ll do great and we’ll learn from them, but the process was not nearly as awesome as I wanted it to be. Either way, here they are. Adam0311, I’ll get these prepped and ready. The second board some how came out with more concave than the first… That’s why the routes are deeper. We’ll see how they turn out. Warranty is real.
I used the same depth of cut for both, and one came out way deeper (the one with more concave).
I’m sure they’ll both live long lives, but if not, Adam, we got yer back.
Onto the next projects, double kick, and doobie mold. We’ll see how those work.
That router bit doesn’t like maple. It burns no matter what speed and feed are used. Next time I’ll use the .375 cutting bit which has a nice up spiral end mill. Oh well, sanders for the win. Good night mo Fers.
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Very nicely done
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@drangboards After brainstorming and thinking about it a bit more, I actually think a board with a recession for the battery (Hummie deck style) would be better than a board that has an entire enclosure built in. I think a board with a built in enclosure would sacrifice a lot of strength/cost/customizability.
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I have no idea what the difference is between the two. What is a recession?