Well, with 110mm wheels, and a half inch riser, this board will work in top mount config.
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That gives 20° of lean with caliber 50° trucks. We should be solid. I may have to optimize the wheel wells a bit but that can happen when it needs to happen, basically when we have a set up on hand we can use to check tolerance.
on the fixed mounts, how high is the motor (on center) compared to the height of the axle?
Btw the TB 110mm wheel has. 65mm contact pitch
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I don’t know on top of my head but in all honesty I can name one motor mount that is fixed and i might have the file for it
Would love it if you can send that/anything like that to me. The more knowledge I can gain on interfacing components the quicker I’ll have a product done.
Pm me your email
You should give him some gear drive dimensions for the smaller wheel set up 85 keegel and seismic … I really hope your still designing this …and by the way things are looking its like the year of the DD carvon competition DD are coming … if they hold not sure … oonow I won’t run belts again and rather gears before belts and DD before it all …
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I’m still designing it. Don’t worry, also designing other things but the 3 gear drive system is the most difficult out of everything
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Sweet I’m glad it’s still a plan… I don’t think a motor and amount really matter most adjustable now unless the couple fixed dual moints but just a big cut out for battery’s and then we will figure the rest out most of is do this with no cut outs as I routine most of my boards for the lipo batterys that’s it the rest fits fine
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We’re probably good to go on the motor mounts unless we find out that with the requisite riser pads most motor mounts hit. If that happens we either create motor wells or we move the rear wheel base back farther away from the drops. I do not want to do that on this single kick.
With the battery enclosure in mind let’s talk about the other channels and holes we might want to cut into and through the bottom of the board.
- Holes along the lengths of the enclosure. Should we drill small or oversized holes so we can inlay threads from the top? I’d imagine this will be the safest way but maybe it is partially a diy thing.
- Channels cut to run wires out the back of the enclosure.
- Other shapes all together. If you want this mold but not this shape we can offer a different shape for you. If it is one of my preprogrammed shapes am down to include this in the price because the board will not have wheel wells if it is a cut out board plus it will likely be shorter.
-your own custom shape you draw on a napkin, your design, or -1 of 5 shapes I draw based on different configs Single kick as pictured Double kick for the crazies Cut out Dropthrough Surfboard For the cut out board it would probably have a longer wheel base. iirc i 29” or 30” is max. This would be the wheelbase for the pneumatic riders. Minimum Drop through inner mounting holes are at 28” or so. Max board length is 45 or 46”.
I’ll probably go live with that design sesh or seshes. If anyone wants to watch and send comments with thoughts I would have fun doing that.
Y’all are going to shame me if I don’t give you mm but I’m sendin it for now. Will edit the post when back at my computer to add mm in with inches. I am eager to engage in this process all the way through with as many of you as possible whether it is through live design or here in the thread even though I can’t think in mm.
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I thought we were talking about this deck/mold in particular
Im 80% sure I would buy if there was an option for an enclosure that can for a dual layer battery.
If this goes somewhere, and I can get my hands on one I can definitely look at it.
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Moon were definitely talking about the same mold. The shape can be anything.
I think it would be cool to put a double layer battery in too.
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Ok.
I have a particular style that I like but this is for everyone. Have you got any shapes in mind
I am going to design some hypothetical shapes right now on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4qX7FJj6KE