Sounds simple enough!
What about wire guage? Whats the best type of wire to use to extend from the front of my board to the back?
I made it work with really shitty cable, so I’d say it doesn’t matter. You definitely don’t need thicker than 24 AWG and much thinner will likely be OK.
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Cool, thats what I thought it was, just wanted to make sure. Its not carrying a huge load of power through it so it should be fine!
I’m hoping to have this ready to go at the same time I finish my battery so I can get everything plugged in and programmed all at once!
It draws less than 100 mA from the ESC.
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Buttons came in, woo Monday just got a bit better.
Encase in hotglue for vibration control and water proofness.
Always check it works before bolting it back together. All good! 
@janpom your probably getting sick of my feature requests. But I got one more. In the horizontal screen I really would like to swap out battery % with average cell voltage. Only one decimal place so it still fits in the same area. Average cell voltage is the only critical number for me while monitoring voltage sag. The % number can be misleading and its easy to make it wacky by changing the config. But cell voltage should always be “accurate”.
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And don’t forget to flux on, flux off!
I.e. let it do the work of flowing the solder and avoiding bridges then get get rid of it with IPA, as its corrosive
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I used the same method as @janpom. If you end up with solder under the cap, or your tweezers are too slippery, then what I found helped was to hold the cap down with the tip of my thumb nail.
Is it still possible too order one of these, or is that over? Also, is it possible to order this fully assembled?
My davega is going to be a bit delayed everyone, I’m finally getting the last of my parts for my build so I gotta focus on getting this board built before the snow starts falling here!
Then I’ll get the Davega built!
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Please put me down for a set of 2. Love the idea of having one assembled as a guide! So cool 
I’m trying to decide whether the assembled kit should come with the headers for the displayed soldered on the PCB. I think it would be a good idea since (1) it would make testing easier and (2) it would be truly plug-and-play; no need to solder anything.
The downside is that the headers make the Dave slightly thicker. If you shorten the display pins, the difference is negligible (about 1 mm thicker than without headers), so IMO it’s not a big deal.
Since nobody is integrating Dave directly into the deck, I don’t see a problem with having an extra 1 mm of thickness. It may require modifying the existing enclosures though. I believe the @mmaner’s one should work fine without modifications. I had one printed and I’m using it without the headers, but there’s still some extra space. I’m not sure about the @lrdesigns’ one. Do we have some headroom there?
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1mm might squeeze in, or I could modify the base a little. A header for the LCD will sure make it easier to test etc. Will it be ok with heavy vibration from skating?
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That would be great. Thanks!
In the enclosure it will still be held in place with bolts so that should be fine.
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I guess you could add a bit of hotglue to the header when you do the final installation for extra vibration proofing.
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I’ve redesignd mine a bit. I changed the button locations and made a new base. I printed it last night, haven’t installed it yet. I’ll get some pics soon.
But, it ises 5mm standoffs so I can add in some shorter standoffs for people using the soldered header. There’s about 10mm to play with in the new base
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New Base, the housing sits inside and uses spacers to set the height required.
It looks like this when its put together.
The idea is the base screws to the deck, the housing screws to the base. You have room for anti-vibration mat and cabling plus the cutout in the base leaves room for braces and truck hardware.
I also re-arranged the buttons to make them easier to use. The last thing I have to do is make a version of the housing with snap-in slots for mini tactile buttons. Once those are in place you can pop the buttons in place, put a drop of hot glue on them and they should stay in place forever. The buttons tops are pretty simple, they print with the housing, you just pop them out of the support material and a drop of superglue on the bottom and you are good to go.
Here is an actual print but its not completely installed yet.
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Any chance my kit is still coming? I fear it is lost in the holiday mail.
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None was lost so far. It’s likely only delayed. It’s a bad time for shipping anything. I have no more spares, so please wait and if it doesn’t arrive before the new year, I will refund your payment.
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Mine took a month to as arrive. @janpom i will send the spare if his doesnt arrive instead of you refunding.