Have you tested with the bms bypassed?
Yes bms is bypassed for discharge.
in a power line yes but in a motor it’s only the current that creates torque. you can’t make a cooler motor running a higher voltage battery. what goes to the motor isnt the battery voltage but an “effective voltage” created by the esc. It’s stepped way down depending how fast yourr going. the slower youre going the more it’s stepped down. if you attached 50v to your motor, and your motor had a resistance of maybe 14 miliohms, it would be ohm’s law and a huge current and burn up
in fact if you run a higher voltage you’re increasing the no-load speed and the motor will be more inefficient similar to running a high kv motor. it has the same effect.
in the power system wiring other than the motor it does work similar to power lines and is more efficient running higher voltage.
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Okay, thanks. Will remove my post before people on the forum get confused. Reminded again why I shouldn’t post. 
its good and get to remind myself and verbalize and hopefully someone will come along and tell me more.
tips and tricks… following the logic above it makes sense to have super fat motor wires as when the esc does it’s stepping down of voltage at low speed it’s often stepping the current way up, so the battery may only be putting out 2 amps through the battery leads to the esc but then from the esc to the motor, depending on the esc settings, you could have up to 100 amps there and if you want to be efficient fatter wires there is more appropriate. And the fat motor leads work as a heat sink for the true motor wires as they are thinner with more resistance and hotter. worth upping the motor amp limit to 100 with a direct drive and hugely increases slow speed torque/performance and smoothness. ive also heard from someone who had carvon motors that were clicking that he was sure it was his bearing.
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wouldn’t upping up the amps cause the motors to get hotter? I’ve seen 2 posts where the carvons have been getting really hot and also Jerry advising to go 12s to lower amps and up the voltage?
i mean upping the motor amps is good for performance but yes it wont keep things cool. heat in the motor being determined by the motor amps.
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Oh got it. I would like to play around with the motor amps with the vesc as well though not sure what a safe range to test out would be yet lol
100 amps is within the design limits and if the vesc is any good it should be able to do it. especially with a hub or direct drive its worth taking advantage of. the ride is much nicer.
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Nice! I was planning on picking up a dual ESCape or Focbox for a carvon v4TD. Hope it won’t heat the motors too much if I go near 100amps.
When you mean nicer ride do you mean in terms of smoother take off and braking?
in my experience at 100 motor amps i get less cogging and can take off from pretty much a standstill smoothly. and better slow speed acceleration.
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I never had thermal throttling issue Other my V3 now I hit 84° in 3 minutes and no acceleration. I tried to raise the thermal throttling temperature but I don’t know why it keeps reducing power at 83° I am using 3.38 We definitely need to find a solution, I have 2 units with overheating problems plus one of them has a faulty motors, I regret my V3 so much.
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So you don’t recommend upgrading my v3 to a v4?
Yeah this can’t be right. They are not supposed to overheat within five minutes of use. I emailed Jerry back after some of his questions and I’m waiting for his response. @LEVer
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No dont. If you have nice roads and not any risk of clearance just keep your V3 I upgraded mine and I regret A lot @sayekim be sure you tell us what he says
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Does anyone know how to contact Jerry about the speed drive XLs? I would like to take @MrHappy’s spot on the XL list but need to contact Jerry so that he can confirm that I can take his spot. We’ve tried emailing him about it but no response unfortunately.
Also is it possible to use the SDXLs on 10s instead of the 12s? I don’t really need to go that fast but I just like the torque. I’ve already got a 10s5p pack made with a 10s bms and would suck to have to reconfigure the pack and get a new bms to go 12s to use the SDRs or SDXLs 
I can’t say for sure about this, but I was reading that if you use 10s it can cause the motors to over heat. At least I read that happened to someone and that was the response Jerry gave them (very rare to receive a response from him though…).
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Is anybody able to get an infrared camera on the motors for a close to reality reading?
Could just be the beta value of the thermistor is off. (This is a setting in the vesctool) So the motor may be cooler than the read data.
This is something @lever should ask his supplier
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I read my fingers irl. They say it’s near boiling water hot.
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Yeah that was @chris.hunt’s SDRs though I recarll him saying they appear to be fine now. Though I do plan on going 12s now on my build So that I can give it enough voltage to keep it from heating too quickly once I’m actually able to get my hands on a set of drives
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