Carvon Direct Drive Tuners Thread - Share your tips, tricks & recommendations

I’d like to know if its possible to change the length of the V4 Torque drive hangars if i wanted the wheels spaced farther apart to match wider front trucks? Would I be limited to the dimensions of the trucks of the Torquedrive or can these be changed out? I want to know if I can use MBS Matrix Pro 2 trucks on both thefront and rear. I checked out the site and it says a stepped down axle is removable and replaceable but not sure what this means

just finished a build with SD-R drives and it’s up and running but can’t get the brakes right.

with satellite motors, i was able to set the “Max ERPM at Full Brake” setting to make the motor lock up approaching near zero speed. so it’d be progressive braking then when it’s almost nearly stopped the wheels would lock up. this is a desirable characteristic for me since i can make the board stationary when not moving by hitting the brakes.

i can’t get the carvons to do the same. is there a setting i’m missing?

also, got the batt min at -60a and braking still feels weak compared to satellite motors.

This is the problem I had when testing my SD-R, but because is my first build I wasn’t sure if that was just how it worked or if I was missing something. So I am very interested in knowing if there is something we’ve missed…

My V3s just don’t brake that aggressively no matter what settings I use…i guess such is one of the only downfalls of that wonderful coasting

When i tested 4wd speed drives they had less braking than my dual belted board @thisguyhere.

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Yup. With really high settings if I remember. Was with 107s which have least amount torque. Someone said they are using reverse as brakes? Maybe @Ackmaniac knows of weak braking solution

Yes weak brakes confirmed.

I also have a problem where my motors get really hot. They have reached 91 Celsius.

I’m running 60 motor max -100 motor min 25 batt max -12 batt min

I went 47kph top speed at 45 duty on 97mm and I weigh 80kg and the board itself weighs 10 kg.

Just braking twice from this speed would overheat my sdr. I’m contemplating to remove the pu sleeves.

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Are the PU sleeves simply for protecting the motor cans?

Yeah just for protection of the cans. I hit 85 Celsius again.

These carvons are starting to be pretty awefull now.

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Has that ever happened before? Now I’m concerned about my plan to pick up a torque drive :confused:

What if you make holes ?

Maybe an alternative to a PU cover? Would a 3D print work as plastic does not easily conduct heat? Just throwing ideas out there lol

Ugh this is getting scary…now I’m not sure I want to upgrade my v3 to v4

Can anyone else here chime in about heat issues with the sdr? @LEVer

Is this normal or do I need to return these drives since they are defective.

Even from low speed riding and braking a lot and then accelerating the drives overheat so I am thinking now that they are simply faulty.

Can you try to take off the urethane sleeve and do more testing?

I’m going to wait until I hear from Jerry if they are faulty or not. My guess is they are since they reach such high temps just from slow rides and braking. I hit the over temperature fault regularly just from some acceleration and braking. Can’t be right.

Very interesting. Zoom in just before first fault. Motor current is negative, but battery current is zero. Feels like current can not flow to the battery, because battery is fully charged / does not accept charge. During same time both VESC and motor temp increase dramatically.

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Interesting. Maybe the bms is shit or I connected it wrong? It’s a 12s so it’s not fully charged.

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@rpasichnyk Thanks for analyzing the data. Does anyone see anything wrong with the bms wiring? It is my first battery build so it could easily be my mistake.

@rpasichnyk I think you are spot on though that the battery is not receiving any charge from braking so it’s dumping all that energy into the motor.