It looks OK 95% of the time, just one time battery current is not negative. Weird 
How did you do it?
@rpasichnyk if you check this data you will see alot of times that battery current is 0 while I’m braking.
I just looked a this record and I am getting more convinced that there is either a bms or vesc setting issue. You can see with this record which was on meepo hubs being the only difference next to vesc settings that I got -16 current min with less negative motor amps then on the carvon.
@LEVer I realise I may be mistaken and may come to conclusions too soon that they are faulty for this I apologize. It is not my intention. I’m just frustrated that I can’t use my drives properly yet and don’t have a solution.
I think I might just try defaulting my vesc settings and start over. I am leaning more and more to that there might be some settings mistake since it looks like my batteries aren’t taking much of a charge from braking whilst with the meepo motor they got more negative current than with the sdr.
Unless someone has a better idea?
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do what?
i just left everything default with batt neg at -60a and brakes are pretty strong, just had to get use to how the carvons feel.
having other issues tho.
it’s stuttering at takeoff and can’t get rid of it.
moved remote receiver away from power lines, tried foc-sensored, foc-unsensored, bldc-hybrid, bldc-unsensored – none of this gets rid of the stuttering at take off.
getting pretty frustrated with this thing.
Get the other board stationery
I would recommend you to do that. It appears that the VESC is going into full brake way before than it should (full brake = shorting all phases together), but if I’m not mistaken the ERPM to full brake is only for BLDC mode
The motor fell this hot when you touch?
Yeah motors felt this hot. Near boiling water. Hope I didn’t cook these motors. Since you can’t touch the full can (obviously because of the covers) I mostly felt the hanger and the side of the motor.
Just saw your settings, when the brakes are weak? top speed or medium to low? with -12 batt you can only achieve the -100 motor bellow 12% of your to speed, above that the batt min is limiting your braking power
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Weak all over.
Gotta try this overlay thing I got so much footage.
You can try bypassing bms for discharge (be careful, watch vesc setting and live data).
Does your bms have bluetooth/serial?
I was having trouble with studdering on the initial acceleration. I doubt you have the same problem as I did though. Enertion had somehow switched the slow and fast positions on the nano remote (didn’t match the sticker). It took a while with them diagnosing through remote access before figuring it out.
IN my experience the first of the preorders from companies always have issues. I may just wait with my future purchases
I know these are older drives but can anyone tell me off the bat what size these screws should be?
I want to order some so they’re here when I get back from a work trip. 
M3
Is that a 2/2.5? If Jerry used the same size as V3/V4, that screw should be M3. He was diagnosing someone’s board on my truck bed last week and had to remove one of those screws that was stripped. He told the guy to get M3
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Just pulled one out of the other side and it looks like M2x6mm but my verniers are at work and have nothing to compare to…
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I’ve experienced basically everything you guys are talking about and want to share what I’ve learned. My settings are 80 motor max - 100 motor min 25 battery on a 10s5p 30q and dual FOCBOX.
- I rode my board to school it was 32-35C that day and my ride was about 6 km on flat slightly uphill maybe a 1-2% grade for a 0.5km stretch with some bridge overpasses that were to go over an 8 lane highway. After riding for 5km and stopping at the market to buy some lunch I touched my motors for half a second and noticed they were really really hot, sadly I didn’t have a temperature gun but I would guess it would be what @sayekim reported in the 90C range. When I was done at the market 15 minutes later the drives felt a little cooler but still very warm, then after about another 3km I started to go up the slight hill that was a 1-2% grade and was pulling the throttle all the way down and noticed I was barely accelerating and I couldn’t even make it up that hill… so I pulled over and felt the motors and nearly burned myself it was extremely hot I sat there for 20 minutes till they sorta cooled off then started on my commute again kick starting it and the throttle felt noticeably weaker than before, however, breaks worked fine. That same night I got home and took apart my board checking for anything that might have gone wrong causing the hot motor issue and 0 throttle and found of the white wire on the sensor broke (on the side connecting to the FOCBOX) so then I unplugged the sensor and ran sensorless. I also changed my remote from forward and break to just current since I was told that having the forward and reverse gives you better braking ability. The next day I went to a group ride in Irvine, CA with many others like the previous day it was a 32-35C, however, had a couple more hills and was a longer ride like 14km at the end of the ride after about 10 minutes of standing around @Mikenopolis felt my motors and agree they were still extremely hot stating they shouldn’t be like that. Jerry was there and checked them out and diagnosed it as my 10s battery I should upgrade to 12s which I was not aware of when purchasing the drives. I also had this weird motor noise which ended up being a bearing in the drive. I repaired the sensor wire and then got my board up and running as I was taking a trip to SF this past weekend, when I got there I quickly realized I was going to have to walk down or take alternate routes as the SDR would not stop me on those hills. I did go up a couple hills in the 25-30% grade but had a good run up tackling them at the 32kph range and maxing out at the 48kph but I did get the 0 throttle issue I was talking about before sometimes halfway up a hill the board would just give out and I would fell it slowing down jump off and grab the board and start walking up the hills the motors were not hot at all I grabbed them and they felt relatively cool, so I guess it’s not a heat issue? The same thing would happen on some flat spots and it sucked as a couple ACTON boards passed me… the thing that fathomed me was that ACTON and EXWAY had way more reliable climbing ability than my SDR as well as being able to safely break on those steep hills. Overall I’m pleased with my performance with my SDR as long as I’m going on a flat area or take hills going like 5kph (that’s how I was able to survive SF basically going like 5kph down a hill and hoping I didn’t get a red light as I would either barely stop or foot brake). I think I may have missed a couple things but covered the major stuff.
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Okay I’ve got some other ideas of what could be the cause that needs to be looked at.
@Yecrtz has the sdr too but his don’t get hot. He is using firmware 3.38 on his focboxes. Here is some metr info from when he was first riding.
@chris.hunt @ElskerShadow which firmware are you guys using?
The other thing is I used the perimetr app to first setup my motors via detection of motors first after reading them first in the app.
I will try some testing tomorrow or rather today actually when it is light again.
First I will try writing default values on the ackmaniac vesctool and then setting the focboxes up again in the tool and configurating the motors.
If they still over heat I will go to 3.38 writing defaults again first and then setting it up again.
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got some results tonight, upped the sensorless erpm value to 4000 for foc sensorless setup and the stuttering stopped, that’s good at least.
haven’t tested enough to check for heat buildup.
there’s this clicking noise tho…not going to put any miles on it until it’s worked out:
the horrible stuttering shown in the video is gone now with these settings:
@sayekim let me know when you figure out the upgraded firmware, very much interested in seeing how that works
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Interested to see if you figure out the clicking. It happens with mine as well
The clicking came up in earlier thread I can’t find now. Someone identified it, maybe was something related to spacers between stator magnets loose? Did not seem to have a solution though that I recall, but also more annoying than problematic? Something like that lol.
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