Bushing Set up Help

Duro is really a personal thing, the heavier you are the harder you want.

My basic setup usually starts at 96 boardside front a rear, 94 roadside rear, 90-94 roadside front. I’m a big fan of precision washers and cups too.

I usually run double barrel, cones tent to wobble with me I er 25sh. I use cones in RKP trucks on cruisers, never on TKP ttucks.

I’m sure some will argue, but this is what I’ve been most successful with.

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Is your stock setup with the TB218’s a Cone / Barrel. If so, try this to start with:
In the front, run the cone boardside and the Barrel roadside and do the reverse in the rear, Barrel boardside and cone roadside with cupped washers in all positions. If that improves the feel, try one more thing to see if it is better or worse. Run both cones up front and the Barrels in the rear. If none of that works we will try different bushings

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If you are talking those speeds, do it right the first time and build it as a split setup with a steeper front truck baseplate angle in the front and a shallower angle in the rear. There is no good reason to run a symmetrical setup for what you are building. Once you can defoine the angles you end up with, we can talk bushings. As for the different series of bushings, it is all based on the height of the bushing, you want to replace what you have in your trucks with approximately the same height bushings to maintain the truck geometry.

Canons are a barrel shaped bushings that was originally designed for Paris trucks more open bushing seat, it is slightly larger in diameter than our Barrel. Durometer is just the hardness of the urethane and it has a loose correlation to what you should use for your weight.

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what duro would you recommend for the bushing setup you suggested above (for the cones and barrels)? i was looking at a duro/rider weight chart (i weigh ~170lbs) and i think i wanna go with 95a APS on the cones and 90a APS on the barrels… does this sound good for me?

edit: yes my stock TB218 set up is cone/barrel EDIT2: also, you said the canons are designed for paris trucks; is there a specific barrel and cone youd be able to recommend me? thank you so much for taking the time to help

Okay, got it. Is there any way to wedge/dewedge while still keeping the dropthrough, or do I have to just go top mount?

Try what i suggested first then we will discuss. It is well over 100 degrees here, breaking records and I need to efficient or I will surely overheat.

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Alright, so I found some angled rail risers that work with drop through. I’m getting them in 15 degrees, so I can set up my trucks to have a 65/35 degree split. Given that new info, what bushings would you recommend?

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@harrypzee I think you are right to go with the KranK 87a but I suggest a Cone / Canon front or a Canon / Canon front and a Canon / Magnum rear.

ooh i misunderstood what you suggested, thought you wanted me to try that with new bushings. will try the setup and report back tomorrow (waiting for loctite to dry on some things)

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Awesome, thanks for the info. Could you tell me the difference between Magnums and Canons? Also, do you recommend 87a all around or should I have a different durometer in the rear? I remember you saying something about split angles making the rear compress the bushings more and thus needing a higher durometer.

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You can control with duro or size, for you I suggested size differentials where the Cone is the smallest, next is the Canon and the largest is the Magnum

so i tried the first suggestion of switching front to cone boardside and and barrel roadside; it improved the feel a bit in terms of improving turnability without any noticeably loss of stability. the trucks still need to be quite tight though and the ride is kind of ‘hard’. im gonna try the cone/cone up front and barrel/barrel in rear tonight and see how that feels. thanks for the help :+1: :smiley:

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Experimenting with what does what is half the fun

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Thanks again for your recommendations. I’ll be ordering a buncha Riptides soon!

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so ive tried cone/cone up front and barrel/barrel in the back and it feels way better than stock. still has to be kinda tight but not nearly as much as before. turning and carving feel much better overall. im just wondering if there’s anything or anyway to improve it more; i feel like softer or better/different bushings might help some more.

thanks for your input :smiley:

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@Alphamail are your indy cracked ice cups good for any independent truck? I have those stage 10 215’s we were talking about a while back. Making my shopping list to add on to the riser order. Also, noticed all bushings are sold as pairs. Is there a way to purchase individually for increased customization?

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The Cracked Ice should fit all Insy’s and yes we can mix and match as long as the constituents of the pairs are the same price point. As an example, you could mix different duros of KranK Chubbys or you could do a Chubby / FatCone pair of the same or different duro

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Hi again, I have a couple more questions before I buy. Sorry lol. My first question is what pivot cups should I get? I know the WFB 96a compound is the one to go with, but I don’t know what truck to select since I’m gonna be using TB 218s. You recommend the Indy pivot cups for TB 218s in this thread, but I’ve also seen you recommend Caliber II pivot cups for 218s in a different thread. Which one is better? As for my second question, I feel like I left out an important piece of information when I first commented on here. While I want to reach the top speed of 35 to 40 mph occasionally, I plan on using my board mostly for cruising at 20 to 25 mph. I also think I want to go with a slightly less extreme 60/40 split. Do these two new points of data affect your previous recommendations at all? Thanks for answering all of my stupid questions :stuck_out_tongue:.

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TB218’s take the Caliber II pivots, I would stick with the 96a. Canons are very close dimensionally to barrels but they fit the TB 218 seat better so there is very little slop so all angulation translates into turn. The Magnum is a big bushing that takes more force to deform than a Barrel or Canon so it is more stable when used in the boardside position. I do not think your questions have effected my previous recommendations…To be sure, can you repeat the recommendation for the actual set up you are asking about?