You said “I think you are right to go with the KranK 87a but I suggest a Cone / Canon front or a Canon / Canon front and a Canon / Magnum rear.” Is that what you’re looking for?
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Stck with the Canon / Canon front and a Canon / Magnum rear, KranK 87a
Awesome. That is the end of my questions. I really appreciate your recommendations.
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For 47kg weights, should i go with 96a or 90a pivot cups.
Hello, would appreciate some help here. I’ve got TB 218 hanger with caliber 2, 50° baseplate. Running some 6" pneumatics with stock caliber bushings and pivot. This setup is really unstable and I almost ate some asphalt yesterday… I’m 80kg and would like to have a more stable deck at 30-40km/h… @Alphamail any suggestions for a newbie? Forgot : double dropdown hummie deck
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How do I place an order like this?
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Just leave a note on the order in the comment section
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I suggest using the 96 as the go to duro for pivots
Instability can come from many sources, the primary source is the rider and your position on the board. Many newbies drive from the “back seat” in they weight the back of the board. You should be in the “front seat” and have more than 55% of your weight over the front truck. Your front foot should be close to the truck mounting bolts and if possible, on the mounting bolts. Knees bent and loose should be your standard stance. You will need to shift your weight towards the rear once you start braking if you have a regenerative setup.
The next source of instability is truck geometry and design. I would suggest a 50 degree base plate in front and a 44 in the back. This is inherently more stable than a 50 / 50 set up and is referred to as a “split” setup. With the split setup, the rear bushings will need to be harder or bigger to balance out the increased leverage the 44 degree base plate has over the bushings. I have found for the TB218"s a Canon / Canon front and Canon / Magnum rear goes a long way to settle the setup down. For your weight, KranK or APS 90a should work great.
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Thank you for taking the time @alphamail , that’s very helpfull info! I’ve been using a Onda Core for 2 years but this is my first “real truck” board 
so my stands shold be ok’ish.
I’m putting together a shopping cart now with the parts you recommended. Should I go with a harder bushing for the rear 44° trucks or is the Magnum a bigger bushing? Also any need of changing pivot cup from original caliber?
This is my cart for the moment :
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Riptide Krank Magnum bushings / 90a
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Riptide Krank Canon bushing 2 set / 90a
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Caliber 44° baseplate
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The Magnum is a bigger bushing so it will balance out the setup so keep all the same duro
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Perfect! And the pivot cup, stay with original or get riptide’s 90a?
Stick with the 96a Pivots
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Hi, I have a TB 218 with sector 9 mini daisy deck my weight is 72kgs, I read through this post and most of the TB 218 posts and I went with a cone, canon ( or is it canon, cone?) setup @ 95a.
But after reading some more and looking at Youtube for some videos i’m not sure I made the right choice of the duro, should I go with different duro boardside/roadside? or same?
The aim is to make my board turn easier in the city (lots of 90) without me falling of because i’m leaning too much and also be able to drive it at ~35kmh.
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Hi @Alphamail , can you please give me some advice on bushings? I’m still confused on which shape, compound and duro I should choose. That’s for a freeride / upcoming FWD build (so rear truck won’t be loaded with motor torque). Here is my list :
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I use Caliber v2 9" 50°, stock Blood orange 89a bushings and pivot cup.
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No aftermarket bushing yet ; I plan on swapping the pivot cup for WFB 96a. Maybe gonna have to first start by mixing stock bushings with the Riptide ; later fully upgrade.
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I look for a fluid, stable and predictive feedback from the trucks ; kinda want a stable center for higher speeds yet a fluid responsive shortturning radius ; I hate “too loose” and “too stiff” trucks.
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A mix of freeride / city commute / DH and speeding. Yea I’m greedy haha
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A street Vega deck (with bit extended wheelbase) and 97x52mm wheels, potential wheelbite without risers but I’ll shave some wood from the deck to make deep wheel arches.
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I weight a solid 190lbs.
Thanks by advance !
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Hey @Alphamail I’m sure you have come across many similar requests for these trucks but I do quite enjoy a direct response from the man himself. I currently have two standard boards (not electric) and this summer I am trying to get into sliding and downhill longboarding. So far my experience with my stock bushings has been okay if not a little underwhelming. My goal is to have a bushing setup that I can both use for downhill runs (higher speeds) but still have a good turning radius for sliding. On my Landyachtz switchblade, I am running bear grizzly trucks with stock bushings (I am not sure what gen).
I also have a loaded tesseract that has caliber trucks (the original version) and stock bushings. For this one, I would love to be able to make it possible for some sliding but I would really like some deep carving to really take advantage of the nice concave.
P.S. I weigh 155 pounds or 70 kilos
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@Hannes, @Vanarian and @Erodrellyn I will do my best to answer Tuesday Cali time. Sorry, been swamped by production requirements…
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There are several things you can do to make the 95a Cone / Canon combination work for you. Have you received them yet? If so try several different setups. When I list something like “Cone / Canon”, that means Cone roadside (top) and Canon boardside (bottom). It is best to have both flat and cupped washers available for the Cones and Canons for additional tuning options. So here is what you can do with a pair of 95a Cones and Canons.
Symmetrical:
Cone / Canon front, Cone / Canon rear
Canon / Cone front, Canon / Cone rear
Asymmetrical so the front turns easier than the rear Canon / Cone front, Cone / Canon rear Cone / Cone front, Canon / Canon rear
The first thing I would consider is dropping a 44 degree baseplate on the rear to reduce rear steering input. The closer to zero the rear is, the more stable the setup becomes so if you want to dewedge it further, turning radius will not suffer much until you get around 25 degrees since you still have the 50 degree up front. Stoked to see you trying a front wheel drive! Once you decide on the angles you will end up with, I will be in a better position to recommend what bushings to try.
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Hey @Erodrellyn can you give me a baseline assessment of the shortcomings of the loaded tesseract setup and the baseplate angles of the Calibers? I need to how how it feels currently compared to how you want it to feel. Also, do you plan on riding the setup switch or strictly one direction?