Hey Brad some feedback and asking for some advice?
I have set up my Ronin 165/155 & 155/145 with your double crank barrels/pivot tubes (faster freeride DH). Both item have a tighter fit with RipTide. The Ronin hollow kingpin seems to be a shade larger than others. I need to wrap something around the bushings to pull them off by hand. Also marginally yours are a touch taller, adding to a bit more pre-load. I’ve dropped some of the cupped washers I was using as a result.
I also put some of your bushings in some Rogue cast I just got, the stock 90a don’t have enough beef for me.
The 96a Krank I pinched out of my other Ronin’s, is this what you would recommend for me for this style of truck? (slower freeride). Running rounded narrow icey wheels.
Ronin: 165/155 & 155/145, front 45 degree & 5mm rake, rear 25degree & 2.5mm rake. 96a Krank barrels all round. Running large wide square off set wheels on both.
Rogue: 186mm, F/R 48 degree, 2mm rake (I’m ridding on a Rayne Darkside if you know it?)
Should I stick with Krank? I like your theory of keeping the same duro bushing type and changing shapes.
What is best for the insert/kore bushing & pivot tube?
Should I stick with Krank or go matching WFB, the Kore only goes to 93a Krank?
so many questions… all written in between watching the world cup, sorry mate
Thanks.
The good:
I figured why have a lathe and not use it to make some cupped precision washers?
The bad:
I got speed wobbles even with them at 40km/h.
I am either completely incompetent or there is something wrong with my board. Although most would bet on the former, the fact that I spent the last couple of days trying to figure out why it randomly cuts out does not rule out the latter.
Back off the angles if you have anything wedged, increase the wheelbase, use split angles if not already by 1st de-wedging the rear angle, use solid secure riser pads no rubber floppy stuff…
I’ve moved away from cupped washers and precision cups on my board because of the increased rebound. Rebound is not good for preventing speed wobbles.
If you haven’t, try some flat washers- they will allow you to lean and turn more, but they reduce rebound a crap ton compared to cups. Back in my DH days, that’s all we would ever use was flat washers and we never had any issues with speed wobble. If you don’t have flat washers, just flip your cups (for roadside at least).
If not using WFB or other internally lubricated bushings, I like to rub my bushings and washers real good on a bar of soap to get them nice and coated up.
BTW, not saying this is why you got speed wobble, but it’s one thing that could certainly help.
@Cobber I need to think about this a bit but some general thoughts are I don’t usually mix compounds as figuring out what is doing what is complex enough and I don’t need characteristics cancelling each other out (this is a personal problem) Can you measure the recess for the insert bushing of the Rogues, when they first came out they were too large for our Kores but our Kores fit their precisions. They may have fixed this issue.
For the pivot, I would stick with the Cup as not many carry our Rogue tube. I am traveling so I will continue to respond intermittently.
All good mate…when you have time, I appreciate the feedback of your wisdom.
Enjoy the travel see how I go, I might just order from you again or from James Hopkin, no hurry bro, just trying to dial my rides in it is a never ending journey
I don’t know how to thank you and Alphamail
The board now is finally stable and yet it turns easier and it carves better than when I got it.
I removed all the rubber angled riser pads and since none of the local skate shops carried hard riser pads I made some in my mini mill from a plastic cutting board.
The difference is night and day. I also tried dewedging the front by putting back one of the soft angled risers but it seems that whatever stability I gain from the smaller angle in the front I lose due to the flex in the pad so it is more or less the same. Definitely worth exploring smaller front angles though.
I will try a hard wedge in front and a few more bushing combinations to improve it even more but even now the board finally is ridable.
And to stay on topic the menu this weekend had fish
OK, interesting set up with all the width options. Are you running a different width front and back? I take it these are precision hangers? With the .375 Ronin Kingpin, our bushings are tight but that is better than loose. Mist kingpins out there are .370 and lower, the AN-26 bolts I use are .373 so some compromises need to be made. Usually after a short break in time the bushings will slide on and off the Ronin KP. Ours are slightly taller to allow for preload and eventual compression set. I usually do not use a boardside bushing on Ronins. Personally I would stay with KranKs in Ronins as the WFB are very pliable and the lean can be excessive with not a lot of return force. I am curious how you are ending up with 5mm rake in front and 2.5 in back. Please explain. I should be able to cover the rest of it once I know more.
hi there, im hoping you can assist me in getting a bushing set up. im currently using tb218 trucks with the stock bushings (dont have calipers for measurements) and i find them very hard; but i seem to NEED to run them very tight or there is bad stability.
i ride my set-up hard (for what it is), its an 8s dual 192kv on a vanguard clone board with tiny amounts of flex, 0 chance of wheel bite with 97mm flywheel clones. I weigh 170lbs and typically ride all out (40-45kph) for most of my rides. I find the current stock tb218 bushing very stiff and make it difficult to turn (i feel like i need to lean way too much to get it to go where i want it to go), where as caliber ii trucks/bushings felt much better than this. i want to be able to loosen the trucks to make turning and carving better, while still having some (more) stability at high speeds.
thanks for taking the time to help the community out like this.
Ugh… another thread to read.
I’ll have to come back to this one later.
Put my board together to Flintstone it around to get a feel for it and I’m not happy with the feel jyst yet.
just realized I can follow and keep track of a thread without commenting on it… derp
Hey @Alphamail thank you for taking the time to answer all of our questions. I am about to start the build of my first ESK8 with an Arbor Dropcruiser deck, Torqueboards 218mm trucks front and rear, 6380 motors and a 12S4P battery pack. Suffice to say it ain’t gonna be slow . I haven’t built it yet so I don’t have any experience, but I plugged in the specs to an ESK8 speed calculator and the top speed should be in the ballpark of 35 to 40 MPH. Obviously I will hardly ever be going that fast, but I wanted to get your input on the best bushings for mitigating speed wobbles at those speeds while still retaining a carvey feel at lower speeds. I weigh 130 LBS. After reading through this entire thread I think I’m gonna go with KranK Cone 87A/Krank Canon 87A front and KranK Canon 87A/KranK Canon 87A back. Another thing I am confused about is street vs. regular bushings. Will regular bushings roadside and boardside fit on TB 218s, or does one of them need to be street? What are the benefits/drawbacks of street and regular? Thanks again for putting up with all my newbie questions.
so ive read through the thread and ive come to the decision i need to get some 96a WFB caliber pivot cups, a set of those precision washers…i read from an earlier post by @Alphamail that canon/canon set up for bushings ;
one thing im confused about is the duro hardness i need, and just want to clarify what canon/ canon actually means…it means i want canons and on the board side AND the road side?
see how I go, I might just order from you again or from James Hopkin, no hurry bro, just trying to dial my rides in 
it is a never ending journey 
