For board 2, I suggested 2 Canons up front and a Canon / Chubby rear to deal with the split angles. For speed, you need to have more than 55% of your weight over the front truck to help stability. For board 1, go with KranK 93a Canons up front and a Canon / Magnum rear for the TB 218’s
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A very stable symmetrical set up
Much thanks to @Alphamail for sharing such valuable info. After trying many different bushing combinations, I have found my favorite to be this: wfb boardside, aps roadside. It’s been stable for me at 28mph, and still carvy at lower speeds.
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ok so i got a riptide wfb cone softer duro 86a roadside with a atlas flat prescision washer and 92/4a wfb barrel board side with a cup washer the precision washer has ruined two of my softer cones by digging into and ripping them so i switched back to a washer on top. these precision washer are supposed to lock in the busing with a tighter feel all mine did was destroy my bushings
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Precision washers can certainly do that unfortunately. What are you trying to accomplish with your set up?
In the process of dialing in my new set up. I want it to be both stabel for those long straight stretches where I can hit the throttle, and loose and turny for maneuverability when in the city. At first glance I thought that was two opposing things and both not possible, but the last days I have learned that it is possible to have both (the way I want it any way).
I have Surf-rodz RKP 50, 220mm wide (I believe) with stock 93 bushings (black) and flat washers. 6 inch Pneumatic wheels (sixshooters). RedEmber Obeah6 deck.
To begin with I ran 50 both rear and front, but fund that I had to clamp down the king ping when speeding, and loosing them again when I wanted maneuverability. I fund the trucks a bit to responsive in the beginning of the turn, and then reaching a dead stop. Then I de-wedged the rear by 15 degrees, and that really took me a long way towards how I want it to be. I dialed in the clamping, so I could steer from the front truck (before I felt that the back turned more than the front). But I have the feeling that the bushings are not that affected by clamping. @Alphamail do you know how the clamping characteristic of the surf-rodz bushings are?
As I have it now I actually feel that I am close to how I want it, but have the feeling that I can dial it in even more.
I think I could have the trucks even more stable / less reactive to lean, and at the same time have them loose. And maybe have the ability to tighten up the trucks if I want that for some reason.
I will properly get a new baseplate (35 degrees) for the rear, so I can get rid og the added risers both in front and back, and have the ability to de-wedge the rear even more.
I plan to see what a cupped washer can do in the rear.
I am a bit uncertain on the SR stock bushings. Something just don’t feel optimal. I have a hard time putting my finger on what it is, but somehow they don’t feel as smooth as I would like. They feel like they come to a dead end when turning. That feeling got better after de-wedging the rear but still.
So I am looking for suggestions to try out. Any further wedging. Washers to use. Bushings to trow in, if thats sugestable over the surf-rodz bushings. Would a pivot cup be worth trying?
I have some Riptide 93a Barrels here that I could easily try if it is that Way I should go.
I weigh 165 lb.
I was inspired by this reply you gave earlier:
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This is not a Esk8, but I hope you can help me out.
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Paris V2 180mm 43°
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Nope
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I want it to be more stable at high speeds (50km/h and faster) but also enough loose at low speed for nice carving and freeriding. (Is that even possible?^^)
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Downhill/ Freeride
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Loaded Tesseract, It wont wheel bite.
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About 60kg
Thanks alot!
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…lol…dont abuse Brad just cus he’s here…let’s keep it on topic and keep the questions valuable to the audience at least, hes kicking down a lot of time here this is not silverfish, its eskating…
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No worries, I am happy to help on all fronts but my focus here is definitely esk8 and there is a lot of crossover
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There really needs to be a new silverfish type of forum to encompass it all again…this is a sign there’s a gap or a need for it…
i have 2 aftermarket trucks that look like they could fit larger diameter bushings on the boardside. they both have some rake. i’m 80kg / 176lbs. i want the trucks to be stable in the middle while still being able to lean into them. personally i was thinking about a softer chubby boardside to get that effect, but i’m not that good at bushings… what should i go for?
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Does that pivot cup for everything on the TB 218 nice and snug? Thanks!
1). SZ stock bushings will stiffen slightly when clamped. 2). Cupped washers in the rear are a good idea especially with the dewedged rear and using the KranK 93a Barrels. Run the KranK 93a barrels up front with flat washers. I think the 93a KranK will be a bit too stiff for your weight and the angles you are dealing with but it will give you a reference point to compare to the stock bushings. I think you may end up with 87a Krank Barrels up front and perhaps a Barrel / FatCone rear. The SZ seat is why we developed the FatCone design in the first place since the SZ RKPs would not fit our Chubby bushing shape
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Stock Paris bushings do not fit the seat as well as our Canon and Magnums. If you FR switch, keep it symmetrical and run a Canon / Magnum combination in either APS 87.5a or KranK 87a and I think you will be gold. If you want it asymmetrical, run a Canon / Canon front and a Canon / Magnum rear.
I am recommending a slightly lower duro than stock but upping the size of the bushings to compensate.
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If you can post pictures of the truck’s bushin seats, that will help. I would like to see both the top and bottom seats and need the height of the bushings also.
I’m using TB 218mm Trucks and find that the stock bushings seem to be too stiff. I would like more rebound. My riding style is typically high speed carving (if you consider 20-30 high speed). A better turning radius would be nice too, but not required. I’m currently using a Landyachtz downhill board with cutouts, so no wheelbite with my 107 Abec 11’s and I keep my back very tight and keep it pretty loose in the front. Can you recommend a bushing setup for me? Thanks for the help.
This is the revised recommendation for Evolve compound trucks and replaces the recommendation below written 01/29/18. Street shapes have been replaced with ShortStreet shapes!: I would use a combination of duro, shape, washers and . force to accomplish this. Since you are looking for rebound, I suggest our KranK compound, all in 93a. For the front ShortStreetCone (Cup) / Barrel (Flat) over ShortStreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped) and the rear I would run ShortStreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped) over ShortStreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped). The suggested washers are listed as a starting point and will allow the front to be a bit easier to turn than the rear. Always be conscious of potential wheel bite anytime you change or adjust bushings. Even though we are going down in duro, we are going up in shape and rebound.
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