thanks Brad!
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Hey @Quiles if you wouldn’t mind, please share your experience on your busing/pivot cup swap expirience while riding. I have 2 set ups, one with genuine caliber IIs and another I’m working on with dual motors and the TB 218mm. Also, thanks for sharing the pic. Im about 150lbs so just below your weight and I’m sure your expirience can help me to a buy decision. Thanks!
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sure! i will! it might take some time as i need time to work on the board…but will def. post. Regards.
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I will give this a try, first thanks @Alphamail
My current setup is a 33” board with 195mm Paris trucks V2 with stock bushings, it kind of works, I have it all tighten up to the max I could, but when I aproach 35 km/h it’s not really stable anymore, I doesn’t wobble, but it’s not a relaxing cruise experience, I would like to improve the stability even if I have to sacrifice low speed cornering
I used this exact trucks and bushings on my previous 39” board and it was perfect, stable at speed and very turny at low speed
Second think is, do you have any oficial reseller in Brazil? From the search I did I found just a few places online with a very limited selection
Thanks again
Edit: my board is 33” not 36”
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6 inches shorter on the wheel base can make a difference, are you on the 50 degree or 43 degree Paris trucks?
Brazil is very difficult to maintain a dealer there since the import duties and taxes are ridiculous. Are your stock Paris bushings a Cone / Barrel or Barrel /Barrel?
The first thing I would do is be sure the sharp edge of the bushings are towards the hanger, not the rounded edge and use cupped washers
Thanks, they are 50°, but I can easily 3D print some angled risers to teste
I perfectly understand about the dealer situations, sourcing esk8 parts takes a lot of time and fingers crossed that it will arrive quickly
My bushing have sharp edges on both sides, I will give a try again to the cupped washer, I swapped them out because they were hitting the hanger and limiting turning, but I didn’t test ride with them, as you can see there’s little space for the cupped washer
Edit:
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At least run cupped boardside
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Yeah, board side is already cupped
OK, start by dewedging the rear a couple of degrees and when you ride, stand close or over the front truck with more than 50% of your weight on the front truck.
Thanks, I will print and test this weekend
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@alphamail, will you please help me with Riptide/truck recommendations for my two E-skate boards? Board 2 is tricky.
Board 1:
Extremely unstable (killer wobbles) above 17mph with a low-moderate-skilled rider.
Torqueboards 218mm trucks. Subject to your recommendations, I am likely to add a Cailber II 44 degree baseplate to the rear and leave the front stock (50 degree?) base plate. Caliber II 44 plates seem to fit the TB hangers fine. Besides switching to 44 degree baseplate, I can de-wedge if needed.
I have tried stock bushings, Hard orangutang nipple double barrels both front and rear, stock front and tightened double barrel rear, and none of those combinations are acceptable.
I want it stable in the whole speed range (max 35mph), and AT LEAST be “carvy” enough to be able to do a U-turn in an average street.
The deck is a semi-custom, W-concave, 9 3/8” wide, 31 ¼” from truck axle to truck axle, top-mount with ½” drop.
I weigh 215lbs and am building my skill level.
Board 2: Caliber II 10” 50 degree trucks. Subject to your recommendations, I am likely to add a Cailber II 44 degree baseplate to the rear and leave the front stock base plate. I want it stable in the whole speed range (max 35mph), and AT LEAST be “carvy” enough to be able to do a U-turn in an average street. I’m just building this board now, but want it optimized for the below unusual situation. The deck is a custom W-concave, 10 1/8” wide, 31 ½” from truck axle to truck axle, top-mount with no drop. Rider weight is 153lbs, though I’d really like it if I (215lbs) could ride this board, too, at least at lower speeds. If we went with Kranks suitable for 153lbs, could I tighten a couple turns and get away with reasonable performance for 215 lbs? Thank you!
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Remember kids, Calibers fit into the Randal 35 degree baseplate as well, and if your going to relax that rear angle, might as well go all the way, lol…
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Just tested, i found some old 97A bushings that I had. First, my rear truck board side was without any washer, I probably forgot to put when assembling the motors.
Now I have 97A barrel board side and 95A barrel road side, cup washer board side and inverted cup washer road side to it doesn’t interfere with the hanger but this provide grater surface area, and rear a little bit tighter than the front
I’ts awesome, stable as was my last board, I can ride at top speed side by side with traffic with total confidence
Thanks for the tips @Alphamail
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If caliber fits tb, and caliber fits randal, then it would make sense that tb fits randal…
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@squishy654, for the cost it will be worth a try in the future for science. 
Its always funny when you think something should fit but just don’t fit (untill you cut something.)
Edit: had to finish the post because my missus grabbed my phone so I could concentrate on not burning dinner.
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Thanks, @squishy654! I wish I would have known sooner, though might still try one. @JasperM, I tried the Caliber 44 baseplates on the TB 218mm hangers and they fit fine. I also verified all of the key measurements. As alphamail says, though, the bushing seats are different on the TBs, simply limiting choice of bushings.
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Board 1’s instability confuses me, it seems as if the trucks are not inline with each other and they are not tracking correctly. Place a yard or meter stick along one of the base plate edges and slide the straight edge to the second truck to see if they are parallel and inline with each other, if they aren’t, you may need to remount one or both of the trucks. Semi custom could mean hand drilled mounting positions and they are easy to mess up. If you can post a picture or two. with a 31.25 axle to axle WB and a 1/2" drop, you standing platform may be a bit tight for a 215 pounder. Dewedging the rear will certainly help but lets check alignment first.
Board 2: 50/44 will be a good place to start, for the 153 pounder, KranK 87a Canons up front and a Canon / Chubby rear with cupped washers on all three Canons and a flat on the Chubby. Should be able to get away with a loose king pin nut setting, just snug enough to take out all the slack. A 62 lb difference can be tough to span with one set up but KranK is your best shot so for the 215 pounder you might need to add a cup washer or three to the Canons to keep safe. It depends a lot on your riding style and wheel size etc. Wheel bite needs to be considered anytime you change anything fo check first!
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@Alphamail: I checked with a straightedge and the trucks on Board 1 are very well aligned. Note: The pictures show a 44 degree Cal II base plate on the TB rear truck, though I haven’t tried it since I am awaiting new battery cells.
Though I have significant skateboard experience and am pretty brave, I have never ridden downhill or e-board before, so maybe I just need to get used to the speed. Any bushing/truck recommendations to optimize it would be appreciated, though. I’m eager to try your Riptides. For Board 2, I should buy all 4 bushings at 87a duro, even with the 44/50 leverage difference? Thanks so much for your input.
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@Alphamail What should I expect with 44 cals. with 90a krank chubby boardside and a 90a barrel roadside?
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