OK, at minimum, the trucks should accept Cones, Barrels, Canons and FatCones in the standard .6 tall longboard height. Unfortunately, the Chubbys will not fit. Do you know what the base plate angles are and how do they feel with the Paris bushings in them?
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they feel okay. A bit restrictive, which is okay, but at higher speeds it gets a little wobbly. iād like some more stability in the middle and still be able to turn without having to stand on my toes for a decent corner. the base plate angles are i believe 55* in front and between 40* and 50* in the back.
Like @Alphamail writes. If you want to use Riptide bushings in your Evolve double kingpin truck, it will work with shortStreet Bushings in the top position and normal longboard bushings in the bottom position.
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Thanks - the Surf Rodz dose not have washers at the base at the bottom. Would it make sense to ad a cupped washer there?
If needed, yes
I fund this in a store:
āSurf rodz hangers feature identical top/bottom bushing seats so the hanger may be flipped to tune the turning characteristrics.ā
Do you know how flipping the hanger affects the turning?
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If the hanger has rake, + rake is more nimble, - rake is calmer. With 0 rake they are the same. I do not remember the rake of SZ TKPās and their site is terrible with tech data
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Not sure I fully understand 
I will try to flip them one day and see If I find it different.
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Ok I been out experimenting with my surf-Rodz rkp.
This was my procesā¦
Started out with 93a Krank barrels all over and no extra washers (must be equivalent with flat washers everywhere). Tightened the kingpin to the point that I could barely turn the roadside bushing.
That gave me a feeling of a middel position that was not supported by bushings at all. A freeplay where the hanger was klonking from side to side with no support. I didnāt like that. It gave me lots of hanger play but a sudden stop when the bushing began to give support. A bit similar to what I felt with the stock bushings.
I then tightened the kingpin to the point where the freeplay was taken away and there were support by the bushing form the beginning. I liked that there the support right away, but fund that 93a is properly is to hard. And the trucks didnāt feel very precise.
Take a look at the video at the end to get a visual of what I mean.
I then put in cupped washers in the rear. I tried both with cups at the top only and also top and bottom. I liked the two cup setup the most. Now I got the more precise feeling that I missed with the no washers set up. But with the washer at the base will I disturb the truck geometri? Would it be better to use the shortstreet barrels with extra washers to get the height to match the height of a normal barrel?
Anywayā¦ I ended up with something that was a lot better than what I had before, but donāt think I am done dailing in.
To sum what I learnedā¦ I like when the hanger gets support from the bushing from the start with no freeplay. I think the 93a are to stif when I want the support from the beginning. I like cupped washers in the rear both at the top and at the bottom.
I want to try softer bushings 90a or 87a? I want to try cupped washers in in the front. I liked the more precise felling when they were added in the rear, and I am wondering how it would feel in the front. I might want to try to dewedge the front 5 degrees. And then there is the rake thing. Right now I have it in positive rake. Would be fun to see what happens if I flip it. especially in the front.
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I am a bit confused by your initial setting described as āTightened the kingpin to the point that I could barely turn the roadside bushing.ā Technically this is correct but the video show that is not the case since there is tons of slop where there should be none. The SZ grind king pin can be deceptive since the flat washer is the head off the kingpin so there is a lot more resistance to turning the roadside bushings buy hand plus the diameter is closer to .375 than most You need to rock the hanger back and forth to determine the starting point for bushing compression when using SZ grind kingpins.
Washer boardside will not upset the geometry enough to be an issue plus it depends on how much preload as to where the hanger actually ends up.
90a KranK may be the sweet spot if the 93a is close
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Iām taking advantage of your very kind offer:
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Iām using toqueboard 218mm trucks. I think the hangar length is 315mm?
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No aftermarket bushings at the moment, just the stock black ones
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Iāve tightened down the trucks but they still feel quite loose. It feels nice and carvy but i worry about high speeds.
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Iām looking for the best balance between carvy and stable. I usually travel at 18mph - 24mph if that helps.
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drop through deck that is top mounted. 100mm MBS wheels, no wheelbite (deck is 39 inches long)
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I weigh about 195lbs or 89kg.
Let me know if I missed anything/wasnāt clear anywhere.
Thanks again!
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Iāll take a guess before Brad replies with a more knowledgeable response:
I would run Canon (Cupped) / Cannon (Flat) in KranK and 93a, both the rear and the front.
Are the TB 218ās extended to 315 to fit the 100mm MBS wheels? Are you open to a split setup since you are top mounted to a drop through deck?
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I donāt think theyāre extended. Itā's just stock TB 218ās , no mods. A split setup? please explain further. Iām open to anything that improves ride quality @Alphamail
Awesome thanks! letās see how that compares
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I was a bit confused as well feeling that it shouldnāt be like that with that much slope But I tightened it til I couldnāt turn the bushing, and then thought is is not right
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A āsplit setupā is when the rear truck is set at a lower angle than the front, this makes the back truck turn less and the front turns more, they are no longer equal, but āsplit anglesā. The Evo longboard deck displays this nicely for you in itās angled front and rear truck mounting areas, that deck had it built in and it works well. You can use an angled deck, wedges, different baseplates, or adjustable brackets or adjustable baseplates to change the angles of any trucks and dial in what you want.
Split angle setups help stabilize a board while still maintaining some agilityā¦it also feels cool, like its turning more from the front like a car or surfboard. Wobbles typically start at the rear truck, so lowering the angle of the rear truck so it turns less provides a stable rear end a base to turn from, and then you can increase the angle on the front, making it turn more than normal, making up for the loss of turn in the rear, and wobbles go away, so you end up with a board that turns the same as it did before, just in a little bit different way, and the wobbles disappear at higher and higher speedsā¦this combined with split duros in the trucks (harder in the rear, softer in the front) makes for a sick rideā¦itās what I did to my ācommuterā I have been riding recently, with a 35degree Randal baseplate in the rear, and a Caliber 50 degree baseplate up front, further wedged another 10 degreesā¦I can keep the bushing soft and it allows me to take quick turns and weave through busy streets like I did in Vegas while testing this setup, but when you hit the throttle it will remain stable to its max speedā¦sort of like getting cake and eating it too, or managing to land two girlfriends that like each otherā¦split angles make all non-symetrical setups work betterā¦and eskates typically only go in one direction so in reality, all eskates should feature split anglesā¦
Here is a link to my commuter build and you can see the angles I used in the picturesā¦ http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/a-skaters-commuter-build/50222
this subject most likely deserves itās own thread, thereās lots of info about trucks people should knowā¦ angle, width, rake and seats are all super important factors that all need consideration when dialing in trucks and most people just throw caution to the wind and just get whateverā¦when itās sort of the difference between your board bucking you off or working with youā¦a subject I love because itās still a subjective mystery of human preference and āfeelā. Once you understand it all, you still have to interpret it and dial in the feel you likeā¦
Here is some good reading I just found on it, check this out:
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II have a pair of Randalās 35deg baseplates on the way, along with some khiro angle risers, riptide bushings and pivot cups all by coincidence, I m going to try to blend them all with some TB trucks into a LaCroix & mini drives.
Happy to see it makes some kind of crazy sense, if not Iād like to try an evo 36"
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@alphamail: I have some problem with the stability of my board. This is my setup:
- Loaded Cantellated Tesseract (wides wheelbase option right now) 3.5Ā° positive Wedge based on rocker of the board!
- 44Ā° Caliber II
- 1/2" riser
- 90mm Flywheel
- 85kg rider
My problem is the following: while riding it is really sensitive to any movement of my front foot. once I stand on my board and drive it is almost impossible to correct the stand of my front foot, because this leads to immediately wobbles. The wobbles are mostly just in a smaller range. So the damping for higher steering angle ist ok! But for micro changes it feels like there is almost no damping at all. I increased the tension of my truck three times already. The first an secound tightenings helped. But meanwhile there is almost no difference. One mor thing: while accelerating hard the board feels save. But the moment I leave the throttle it becomes unstable.
soā¦ what should I do? Which bushings would you recommend? Should I wedge my rear truck?
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