What a fool! Sorry about that 
Here are the pictures:
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Perfect, can you measure the depth of the step in the seat. Looking for the height of the sidewall that contains the bushing
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They go in 4.5mm
Here are additional meassures, just in case:
Bushing length 15mm Bushing external diameter 25mm Bushing internal diameter 9mm
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OK the basic approach to stabilization of compound truck set ups is to progressively tune the bushings going from the loosest to the stiffest - roadside front, boardside front, roadside rear, boardside rear. The KranK compound works great for this because it has high adjustability based on thee clamping pressure of the king pin nut. What duro Evolve bushings are you using, Peach 90a, Green 92a or Orange 95a?
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Thanks @Eboosted, those are very deep seats, normally you will see something around 2.5mm in a precision truck to take advantage of shapes such as TallChubbys. With such a restrictive seat, I would suggest going to a TallCone /TallBarrrel combination in the front and a TallBarrel / TallBarrel rear in either APS 87.5 or KranK 87a. So lower duro than stock and a easier to turn combination up front. If you want it even looser, run APS 85a or KranK 84a
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Thanks. Does that mean that I should use clamping to adjust? I got the impression that I should find the right duro and compound of the bushing and then have that determine how the feel is, without extra clamping. I believe the stock bushings are the orange ones 95A.
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The recommendation below needs to be revised due to some possibly incorrect information I found on the Evolve website regarding bushing heights. Once this is confirmed, I will post a corrected recommendation.
I would use a combination of duro, shape, washers and . force to accomplish this. Since you are looking for rebound, I suggest our KranK compound, all in 93a. For the front StreetCone (Cup) / Barrel (Flat) over StreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped) and the rear I would run StreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped) over StreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped). The suggested washers are listed as a starting point and will allow the front to be a bit easier to turn than the rear. Always be conscious of potential wheel bite anytime you change or adjust bushings. Even though we are going down in duro, we are going up in shape and rebound.
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Thanks that gives me a specific starting point - let the tuning begin.
Just to be sure. Have I understood it correctly:
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I did catch a slight error, please change the front board side Barrel washer to a flat, so you will have going from roadside front to boardside rear: Cupped / Flat, Flat / Flat, Flat / Cupped, Flat / Cupped
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Thanks for doing this!!
The oem red bushings in my caliber 44° trucks are nice and soft…perfect for a 9 year old…
I’ve since swapped the rear to black regular barrels. Khiro… It’s dewedged 6° (Sector 9 wedge riser) and additional 1/8" riser…at 38° now. Using cups on road/boardside.
Front has unknown duro yellow barrels, also cups on both sides… straight spacer @1/2"
Issues: I’m still getting a little wheel lift, caused by the cup washers grounding out on the hangars…
Bushings are tightened 1-1/2 full turns.
Tall barrels will fix it I’m sure. I’m 205# Abec 11’s 97mm Bustin YoFace double kick deck, with the wheel cutouts dug out a bit more via belt sander…
What tall barrels do you recommend?
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I have never run Talls in Caliber Trucks, do you have the king pin length necessary? If you are suffering from cupped washer bite and you have tightened the kp nut 1.5 turns you are nearly at kp lock. Sounds like you are using too soft of a bushing or you need to boost up to a Chubby shape at least boardside.
Yes, there is plenty of room…
Just to check, I put two cupped washers boardside, and a cupped + flat washer roadside…still had a few threads showing @ only 1-1/2 turns from loose…
loose: i.e. can just turn bushings by hand
It is better with the harder black barrels at rear and yellow barrels in front, 2 turns from loose.
But again…still getting hanger contact in deep lean…
At just 1 turn tight, I can see it (washer) hitting the hangar when I push on the truck. (Upside down on the bench)
Flat washers all around solves the contact issue, but allows some wheel bite.
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@Alphamail thanks for doing this I’ve learned alot by reading through these. I would like to get some quick feedback on my setup.
I’m running an landyachtz evo/ TB 218mm trucks/ boltzen 12 degree wedges so I’m essentially at a 53/47 split. I’m around the 195-200lb range for my weight.
Right now I have blood orange 89a/89a rear and 86a/89a front with flat washers. I realize this is way too soft for my weight as i had to crank down the kingpin nut to the point of bushing deformation.
I would like a bit more stability in the 30+ department so I need to go higher duro most likely. I’m wondering if going with the softer RS bushing up front will essentially do the same thing more or less than all the same duro but running a fat cone on the rear BS to keep the steering bias balanced due to the split setup.
Let me know what you would suggest. I’d really appreciate it man!
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So you are taking the Evo wedging / dewedging and adding or subtracting another 12 degrees?
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^50deg baseplates Evo has raked-15 rear, +15 front You added +12 wedge rear 50-15+12 = 47
-12wedge front 50+15-12=53
53/47
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Thanks a lot for the help man!
I just ordered a tall barrel and a tallcone in 87a, I wonder if the Pivot Cups could also be upgraded with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07414XST2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A09135573LH764KW2KA0X&psc=1
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Interesting way to work with the wedging. I am OK with what you did with the front but the rear I would just use a flat riser to end up with a 35 degree rear giving you a 18 degree split (53/35). We weigh about the same so let me know if you are OK with rearranging rear to 35 degrees and I will have some ideas. I just received a pair of the TB 218mm trucks and I want tomorrow to test out our different shapes before I suggest!
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If you are asking about pivots for the Raptor trucks, I would be guessing. If you can take them out and give me the ID, OD, Depth and Length, we might have something Close. I need it to the .001" or .01mm