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Bushing Set up Help


I did catch a slight error, please change the front board side Barrel washer to a flat, so you will have going from roadside front to boardside rear: Cupped / Flat, Flat / Flat, Flat / Cupped, Flat / Cupped


Thanks for doing this!!

The oem red bushings in my caliber 44° trucks are nice and soft…perfect for a 9 year old…

I’ve since swapped the rear to black regular barrels. Khiro…
It’s dewedged 6° (Sector 9 wedge riser) and additional 1/8" riser…at 38° now.
Using cups on road/boardside.

Front has unknown duro yellow barrels, also cups on both sides… straight spacer @1/2"

I’m still getting a little wheel lift, caused by the cup washers grounding out on the hangars…

Bushings are tightened 1-1/2 full turns.

Tall barrels will fix it I’m sure.
I’m 205#
Abec 11’s 97mm
Bustin YoFace double kick deck, with the wheel cutouts dug out a bit more via belt sander…

What tall barrels do you recommend?


I have never run Talls in Caliber Trucks, do you have the king pin length necessary? If you are suffering from cupped washer bite and you have tightened the kp nut 1.5 turns you are nearly at kp lock. Sounds like you are using too soft of a bushing or you need to boost up to a Chubby shape at least boardside.


Yes, there is plenty of room…

Just to check, I put two cupped washers boardside, and a cupped + flat washer roadside…still had a few threads showing @ only 1-1/2 turns from loose…

loose: i.e. can just turn bushings by hand

It is better with the harder black barrels at rear and yellow barrels in front, 2 turns from loose.

But again…still getting hanger contact in deep lean…

At just 1 turn tight, I can see it (washer) hitting the hangar when I push on the truck.
(Upside down on the bench)

Flat washers all around solves the contact issue, but allows some wheel bite.


@Alphamail thanks for doing this I’ve learned alot by reading through these. I would like to get some quick feedback on my setup.

I’m running an landyachtz evo/ TB 218mm trucks/ boltzen 12 degree wedges so I’m essentially at a 53/47 split. I’m around the 195-200lb range for my weight.

Right now I have blood orange 89a/89a rear and 86a/89a front with flat washers. I realize this is way too soft for my weight as i had to crank down the kingpin nut to the point of bushing deformation.

I would like a bit more stability in the 30+ department so I need to go higher duro most likely. I’m wondering if going with the softer RS bushing up front will essentially do the same thing more or less than all the same duro but running a fat cone on the rear BS to keep the steering bias balanced due to the split setup.

Let me know what you would suggest. I’d really appreciate it man!


So you are taking the Evo wedging / dewedging and adding or subtracting another 12 degrees?


yep normally would be 65/35 but with the wedges I have 53/47 essentially @Alphamail


^50deg baseplates Evo has raked-15 rear, +15 front
You added +12 wedge rear
50-15+12 = 47

-12wedge front



Thanks a lot for the help man!

I just ordered a tall barrel and a tallcone in 87a, I wonder if the Pivot Cups could also be upgraded with these:


Interesting way to work with the wedging. I am OK with what you did with the front but the rear I would just use a flat riser to end up with a 35 degree rear giving you a 18 degree split (53/35). We weigh about the same so let me know if you are OK with rearranging rear to 35 degrees and I will have some ideas. I just received a pair of the TB 218mm trucks and I want tomorrow to test out our different shapes before I suggest!


If you are asking about pivots for the Raptor trucks, I would be guessing. If you can take them out and give me the ID, OD, Depth and Length, we might have something Close. I need it to the .001" or .01mm


Just ordered those same exact pivot cups for my trucks


That much of a split would front wheel steer like crazy tho wouldn’t it? I was wanting to do something more balanced for carving as well as speed.

My turning radius would be horrible.


I think you will be pleasantly surprised. It would be easy for you to try and see for yourself


I’m up for trying it. I’ll just not be able to run quite as much motor cleanace in the back. The wedge allows the motors to be tucked up higher as it moves them away from the drop. Hard to visualize unless you are looking at it and see what the angled wedge does to the final motor position in the rear.

It would be much easier to remove the wedge from the front truck. Which would give me a 65/ 47 split instead of a 53/35 split.

Would that essentially be the exact same handling more or less since the split differential is the same amount from to back?


Way too steep in the front


Whats the difference between the barrel and the streetBarrel? Cone and the street cone?


Mainly the height, ShortStreet is .4" tall, Street is .5", Longboard is .6", Tall is .75"


Hey @Alphamail, question!

What is your experience with bushing maintenance and replacement? What are the best practices?