Boss level custom spot welder

I saw the picture well. There are two ways to repair.

  1. If you send it, I can fix it.

  2. You can fix it yourself. You can connect the burned wire. It’s an easy task, but it’s a meticulous task.

Please let me know what you want.

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My spot welder didnt come with a switch and I dont like auto mode it’s way easier to make a mistake. Can I wire any momentary switch to the pins or is it a.special switch?

Pedals are much better. 3-5 € at Aliexpress Solder a couple female dupont and you are done. Any momentary switch Will do anyway. You can find them at any electronics store

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One more thing I’m using settings 4ms for .15 pure nickel and I’m not getting any welds just sparks and sometimes the nickel will stick to the tips. I got my welder second hand so maybe it has an issue. Or could it be my tips are too messed up? When I got it the tips were mushroomed out and almost touching I used sand paper to fix it best I could but maybe it’s still a problem.

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What’s your lipo? 4ms is usually enough for 0.15 but that depends on the lipo. Are your wires jumping? They MUST JUMP. At least one of them must jump. The amps are not going where they should otherwise. Make sure the tips are clean without scraps of PVC and have a perfect Contact with the nickel. Also make sure the pressure is correct.

I’m using a 6ah graphine 3s 65c the few times I got the lines to jump the weld was very weak. I may have problems with my tips then I’m gona try to clean them up more.

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Battery seems fine. How much pressure are you using?

I’m pushing firmly.

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The tips don’t look that bad either

That was after some love with 80grit Sand paper, they were mushroomed out before almost touching to the point that I couldn’t fit sandpaper between the 2.

I was the one who wanted to do it ages ago, but only got around to actually trying it out recently.

It works, but I tried it out with a 3s5p LiFePO4 pack, not 4s as I should’ve done. 4s was the intention, and cells ordered as such, but I made an attempt to see if I could solder the cells together, so I tried it on a 1s5p pack and failed. Even cleaning the contacts with denatured alcohol, sanding them to create a better surface area, and using flux didn’t help the solder stick like it should to the cells. I ended up ruining the cells so I was left with a 3s5p pack and resorted to ordering a lipo to spot-weld.

Because of the lower voltage of the 3s LiFePo4 pack, I had to set the voltage alarm to a lower setting to get the spot-welder to work. The timings I used were 12ms x1x1 for one strip of 0.15T x 12mm nickel, and 15ms x1x1 for the second strip, welding to a razor blade. Result was really good though. Solid welds both times.

Talk about an expensive experiment :expressionless:

My advice : if someone wants to do it, it’s possible but if you don’t have a spare 3s lipo lying around and don’t want to shell out for one, get a LiFePo4 pack made by a pro. And go 4s5p at the very least.

Sorry for interrupting. Back to your regular scheduled programming :yum:.

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For some reason I had to bump up the ms on my lipo. It wouldn’t weld same as before

I may try that, should the tips be flat or pointed. I have them rounded but I can flatten the tips with my belt sander.

Mine went from round to kinda flat. I just switch sides sometimes. Rounded is fine.

When I get home I’ll try what you said I’ll bump it up half a ms every time till I get a good or bad result lol

keep some sandpaper close, if your tips starts sticking, sand them a Little, then you’re good to go. Also helps to keep them abit pointyish

It’s weird but light pressure works better.

sparks usually means either not pure nickel, or dirty or bad contact. Hm or maybe if the electrodes are too close together it’s arcing between them…

That could be a possibility I did separate them a bit but I’ll try seperating them more. I tested my nickel with a vinegar peroxide salt solution and it did not corrode.