@intensivegecko - Not sure what structure you are seeing, there shouldn’t be anything (other than some support material that you need to remove on the backside). Can you post a picture of what it is?
Looks good 
what print materials are you using? Would you not make the rear play cover the wheel gear to stop debris getting in there like the commercial vendors?
I read somewhere that a spiral bevel gear is the most efficient
In a final form sure. I am only an amateur with CAD so am doing test prints to check measurements and fit. So no point to use that much material to cover something that will not be ridden anyway. Silver was pla and the white is PETG
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Yeah i had that, did you use the 66t pulley?
Ah Interesting. I definitely didn’t have that on any of mine. I must have messed up something in the model. You should just be able to drill it out.
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It seems as if the retaining rings bulge outwards where the screws aren’t holding them together. Has anyone had this issue? Should I have a ring on each side of the wheel? Considering machining some metal circles to hold it all together.
Mine do not bulge - and they have been inflated basically since I have started this thread. What do you mean by “on each side”?
These are @ptowncruiser 's hubs. There are retaining rings on each side with the lip that hold the wheel on. When inflated, it pushes against the lip and bulges the ring outwards away from the core of the wheel.
Well you obviously need rings on both side - how should it work otherwise? I think I am missing something in your question. The bulging might be because of the reduction in screws - my design has 6 and his “only” 5 if I remember correctly.
@intensivegecko there should not be any bulging. I don’t have any on mine. What pressure are you inflated to? I think mine are inflated to 35 psi. You need a ring on each side (except for the wheel with the pulley, the pulley has a retaining ring integrated into it). It can be a bit of a pain to get the tire to seat up on top of the lip, but this is what helps reduce runout. I found that If i inflated my tires to about 15 psi and worked them back and forth a bit it helped seat them, then I inflated them the rest of the way. I still had one I couldn’t seat, but it actually fixed itself the first time I rode it.
I am not 100% sure what you are talking about with the bulging. Can you give us a picture?
that material could be there for support of something on the print, also depending on print layer thickness it might just skip over that. otherwise do as @ptowncruiser mentioned and just drill it out.
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Drilled it out. Reprinted the rims in 1.5* scale aps instead of carbon fiber. It was too malleable.
I use ABS for the hub and PETG on the Ends and pulley. 70PSI and 30 miles later and no problems.
Guys I found these 6x2 that are cheaper than the ones posted at the top. $8 with tube. Around $40 for set of 4 with shipping.
Wow, do you pump regular 6x2 tubes to 70PSI? I have mine at 35PSI; 70 must feel like riding on urethane.
Hi a quick question. Is it the thought so that i only need retainer on the back side og the hub? or how can i attach it on the front side? the retainer has a lib
I went past 80 just to trial, then let out air to roughly 70. Slight warpage of the end cap like someone mentioned earlier, so i printed new ones.
I’m still using maxids design for the front two and they’re fine. Pneumatics pretty much halve the range of your battery, having a high PSI compensates a little on the road and gives you a smidge more range.
How did these affect your range compared to street wheels?
Would you recommend abs or carbon infused filament? Printing using a wasp 2040 with hot bed and enclosure