I wouldn’t call 800w whooping, most guys using out runners can pull 2000w+
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The biggest issue was the insanely deceased range.
Upgraded version
- Scientific tire pattern, no vibration on the flat road
- More power, increased torque, stronger climbing
- Higher efficiency, more range https://www.instagram.com/p/Br5KBZcB4qb/
I’ll bet hard cash that at the end, I’ll have a better set of motors.
I broke my hand in December, so that is definitely interfering, but my progress so far:
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Holy shit! I totally did not expect it to work at the end 
I finished winding the first motor and hooked everything up to check it out and IT WORKS!!!
Not only does it work, but I managed to pump 60A thru it with no issues whatsoever,
I broke one of the hall sensors while trying to replace the circuit board so I had to go BLDC with no sensors, but man this motor screams! While I’m not quite ready to go for a ride on it yet (still need to do motor #2, or just hook up the motor unwound and go for a 1 motor ride).
Seriously, I’m so stoked right now.
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I may have overdone it… My calculations show the motor to now be 112kv. I measured the rpm at WOT with a 10S battery to be 4138. That puts the top speed with the 105mm wheels at 40mph.
I definitely need a new helmet.
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My modified 4WD board with skull wheels. Summary in next post.
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I tried the skullboard wheels on their own but with the Verreal generic ESC. I learnt quickly that the ESC needs to be programmed to the spec of the wheel. As a result of the mismatch I got cogging on take off (not smooth takeoff like the original wheels). Once going the wheels worked fine. The top speed was much lower than my original wheel and not as much torque. Also under load with the incorrect ESC there is some cutting out that goes on that never happens with the correctly matched wheels. I took apart the Skullboard wheel and the original Verreal wheel and the skullboard stator is smaller in diameter and length than the verreal wheel. The skullboard also has a larger number of windings. In summary I wanted a powerful board to be able to go uphill on grass. I combined my original setup with the skullboard wheels and together it is fast and powerful but due to these generic ESCs not being programable it is a hit and miss when you start combining parts with limited data on them.
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How did you go about making your sleeves with hubs on the right side of the picture?
I just ripped off the old PU off the original hubs and machined the Rough Stuff wheels to slide onto the outer hub. It works fine because the Rough stuff wheels have so much meat on the outside that there is no problem just having a tight interfearance fit. Everything stays tight. You need that meat as having thin outer PU tends to loose shape after a while. The wheels are not as true as I would like them to be but it does not really matter for the ride. I had some guy do the machining who had never done it before and it was a learning process for him. But for someone who knows how to machine PU it is easy. You need to make the carbide cutter into a particular shape to get it to cut PU nicely. Also if I would do the machining I would have also machined the outside of the diecast sleeve to true it up. I would do it again, I just thought at the time that the Skull board wheels would work out but they didn’t. In saying that I have plenty of power now in 4wd to get thru most grassy parks and hills. If I had all 4 wheels like the Rough stuff setup then it would be perfect. Might do it again if no other big 105-110mm turn up to market.
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I did the same for my wowgo 2s hub motors last weekend. Haven’t tested them yet… Waiting on some other parts to take care of other battery+enclosure related things before i ride it all together… Need to add some kind of flexible adhesive between the sleeve and rubber too to be safe. Will report my ride experience asap.
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I did. The are 350w. I spun them up on bldc sensorless because the sensor wires connectors were silly. Used some old 4.xs I had kicking around. 20a battery max for the both of them.
Tiny motor leads but ran smoother than I expected. Rode it in hallway, project for a buddy.
For those who reported the vibration issues, I’d like to point out that now that I’ve worked with 2 sets of motors and wheels, I’ve found most of them to be cut off center. This makes the wheel/motor imbalanced, and I’m sure would cause vibrations while spinning. You may want to take a look at yours to see if this is your case as well.
I had to use large strips of lead tape (for balancing tennis racquets) to correct it.
can you please elaborate? like, how did you locate the counter balance point?
i got a set from @mishrasubhransu, they’re wobbly as fuck.
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Its the same method for balancing RC tires and propellers: You let the heavy side settle to the bottom on its own, then stick tape to the top. With the 105 wheels its easy since the rim is completely hollowed out. You keep doing this until the wheel when spun doesn’t settle with the same heavy spot at the bottom any more. Ideally, what used to be the heavy spot, and your new taped spot end up at 3 and 9 o’clock.
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How about the bearings? They’re a little loose. I tried to tape them around and push them but at some point it will lose the tape.
In my case, I had one front wheel that the spacer was a little too big so the bearings did not sit completely in the hub. Even with the nut tightened, you could move the wheel side to side. This I fixed by sanding down the spacer until the bearings would sit correctly.
Unfortunately, these wheels are far from “precision made”.
If in your case the bearing is loose from the hole being too big diameter, I don’t know what to do to fix that. Even though the price of one wheel is cheap, shipping will kill the idea of buying a single replacement.
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I have vibration issue on the Skullboard hubs also. I thought it was the bearings and was going to replace them but I think I need to check the trueness of the hubs first. I didn’t like these hubs from the start. I have a 4wd setup with the skullboards hubs up front and the verreals up back. I do notice that the Skullboards do run much cooler than the verreals but the skullboards are less powerful and exhibit some other issues a little bit hard to explain but wheels skips under high power on grass surfaces which is anoying. The verreals don’t do this
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