When I swapped my Meepo hubs for the Skullboard motors, the range dropped 50% with my Sanyo 10s2p. I can still get 10 km out of them, but I kick start and don’t hit that many hills on my daily rides. I’ve got other boards in the works, but these will be sticking around for their versatility.
I hope the Skullboard folks take another whack at this and release a 2.0 version.
So these feel better than hummie hubs to you?
I haven’t tried hummie hubs yet but I can’t see how 83mm wheels compare to 105mm in comfort. If hummie decides to make 107mm sleeves then the difference should be minimal.
Have you ever ridden a 83mm centrax wheel? It feels the same as that, very similar formula and also poured by ande.
First, comes down to the diameter of the motor. Hummie hubs are far thinner than most hub motors. This means you get more thane for your size…
Then, comes the quality of the wheel. I feel safe taking hummie hubs over pretty much anything (as you’ll see in the Barrett Junction Race in just over a month). Low duro, soft 78a wheels make a huge difference.
From the those who have ridden them, they all say the same thing: They can’t believe how smooth they feel, and that it feels similar to a 107mm wheel.
Come to a major event soon and ride them. I think it’ll change your mind about larger wheel size == more comfort. 
Well, they might be comparable in riding comfort over rough roads, but the smaller wheels will stop more easily when it faces a considerably sized stone/rock/twigs…
It is true… Thus why I’ve been bugging hummie for larger wheels since… forever, lol.
Truth I tried telling them, you should try this mod. If you want meepo Motors performance but skulls traction. 
I need to do the filling in mod. Do you fill in the tread from outside only? or did you fill in the holes as well?
The vibration does NOT come from the tread… It is from the imbalanced mounting of the tires. Get down next to your board and just roll it back and forth with your hand slowly - Can you feel/observe the deck swinging or swaying? That issue isn’t solved by filling in the tread - and that issue is really where the problem lies.
Another test you can do… simply cover the surface of your wheels with Heavy Duct Tape or something similar to mimic a smooth tire… and get down next to your board to slowly roll it back and forth with your hands again…The tire imbalance, if present, will still produce the same “swaying” in your deck. (I don’t recommend actually riding your board like this…)
Regarding filling all the micro holes of the airless design, I did this already and it didn’t fix the heavy vibration issues - But it did make carving and cornering sound/feel different. The available outer membrane of the airless tire is very thin - and under weight, it’s basically like carving with a semi flat tire. Not efficient and pretty noisy. Filling the holes all the way through helps the tire keep its firmness under heavy weighted turning.
Also, there isn’t a level of consistency through the mounting process from wheel to wheel, so different people are having different results it seems.
I really want to try rewinding these motors. After finding all the information on how to do it, I’m still hesitant to take the motor apart to count the # of turns it has before starting.
Nevermind, I hacked one apart in the name of science. 6 turns of 14 wires bundled (84T) each 29 AWG. They are wound LRK and wye termination.
I’m going to experiment rewinding using 18 AWG single strand and see what happens.
@MiniChopper4Me Would be super helpful if you could do a write up on how you did the rewind. Even better make a video while doing the second motor. I also want to try this.
Someone on rcgroups helped me make the calculations and the recommendation was to go with 8 turns of 18 AWG. I’ve ordered the wire and now just need to look into replacing the hall sensors since I’ll likely need to hack out the originals.
Seeing the PCB APS sells, I wonder if its better to have the sensors 120 degrees apart, or just the 3 of them in a 120 degree spread like they are on this motor by default. If I can’t figure out the sensor to get replacements, I’ll have no choice but to desolder the originals from the PCB, work around them for the rewire, then solder them back in. I tried softening the epoxy to get them out on a throw away motor, but that didn’t work out. I ended up having to chisel them out with a screwdriver and rubber mallet.
Anyone know how to get just replacement hall sensors? Can I just buy the APS ones and solder them in instead of the originals?
I managed to hack apart the first Skullboard motor and save the original sensors. I’ll work around them on the rewiring.
Fyi they are wound with 0.30mm wire, x10, 16T (still not sure on this terminology, but I mean 8 turns on the first tooth CW, another 8 on the next tooth CCW, skip 4 teeth, etc), wye termination, dLRK wound.
My 90mm Maxfind motors were 12T of bundle of 14 of the same wire, but were MUCH more fun to ride. Incidentally, doing the math I found that the Maxfind iteration had way better efficiency than the Skullboard version. No wonder this version has such poor performance.
I’m actually aiming to increase the efficiency from the Maxfind version. The rewire is on!
First attempt was a bust. Just too hard to wrap 8 x 2 x 21AWG. I made some custom tools to help, but I wasn’t able to squeeze in the wraps even though they fit when perfectly aligned. Going to try 8 x 3 x 23AWG next.
Don’t waste your time guys the v2 version will be out in a month 32mph 800w beast!!!
Yeah… not really 
From Skull board?
From these guys, releasing February. So, don’t know if they’re official yet https://ignitionboards.com/product/the-voyager/
stormesk8 is also selling them soon, by the looks of their instagram. they will probably sell the motors only.