Those wires are coated for insulation. I think soldering it back together would be very difficult. You would have to be able to clean the coating off of both ends of the broken wire and then over lap then to solder together. Then you would have to re-insulate the wire.
Hey man - glad you’ve diagnosed the fault.
I’m afraid I couldn’t get that bloody thing to come loose – it’s completely glued solid so I just worked around it. My problem was the phase wires actually were touching which caused the issue – are yours touching too? It looks like you’re shrink tube has ridden up exposing the wires to each other - that in itself I believe is enough to confuse motor detection. If that’s the case what I did was pull the wires back through the opening so they’re accessible, re-shrink them (and resolder any loose strands, though if you have a lot this may be a bigger issue – they really don’t solder well) and then wrap them back as they were and pull back through the blue cover. Make a mental note, or better take photos of how they went in as I put them back in differently and the wires came back through at different lengths! 
If this doesn’t work for you then try and take that cover off but I literally hammered it in a vice after freezing it for several hours and couldn’t get it to budge 
OH MY GOD I GOT IT TO WORK! I realized I couldn’t get a soldering iron through the cracks of the blue capsule housing so I decided to use a paper clip to insert a very tiny amount of glue onto the frayed copper wire and hold it in place so it wouldn’t touch any other wires. Then I hooked everything back up, turned on my VESC and connected it to my computer and hey presto, FOC mode works!! My last few questions to you guys are with regards to my FOC settings (I’ve never used FOC before). Are there any irregularities you would fix, given that I’m riding a 10S4P battery, a 190kv 6374 R-spec, with an 83mm wheel setup? I weigh around 150 lbs and ride in a hilly place.
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Dude, be careful. Depending on what type of glue you just used, you’re looking at 1 - 50+ miles before your motor chunks and locks up again. Possibly destroying your vesc with it. I’m a college student as well, and I know spending money sucks ass, but don’t kill yourself over $100, or have to spend $250 on a new motor and vesc in a month or so.
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Listen to @MrHappy You are risking too much to save a few bucks. Not only risking your Vesc but risking your life as well.
Agh, that’s a scary concept… Hopefully the “gorilla” brand super glue holds up? I’m just so hesitant to get another motor when this one now works (though I still haven’t ridden it) and a new motor this size is upwards of $80 to $100…
Super glue is a joke and no, it won’t hold up. It will fail when you least expect it and then the wire will short and lock up the motor and send you flying on your face into the asphalt. You have been warned.
Yikes. Sounds like the best bet would be to either find a way to solder it down or to buy a new motor?
Your only real and safe option is a new motor
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Rough… Thanks for the reality check.
ok. So new motor time. Any suggestions? I’m looking at either the Ollin motor (http://www.ollinboardcompany.com/product/om-6085-200kv) or the Torqueboards one (collections/electric-skateboard-motors/products/electric-skateboard-motor-6374-190kv-3150w) or maybe something else?
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you have advantage of being able to pick one up locally (or i can ship) if you want the 200kv Ollin
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I’ll hop on that! I’ll PM you about it. Thanks!!
Aside from that though, how do my FOC settings look? Any tips would be supremely appreciated.
Have you opened the motor up at all ? I had similar problems and found a dry joint where the silicon wire attaches to the phase wires. It’s a very small crimp. Also the phase wiring wasn’t insulated adequately close to the windings and was shorting against the housing. Haven’t had problems with those motors since. Be careful pulling the motor apart - those magnets are strong and will pinch hard should you get your hands caught.
And have you tried this ? Changing the erpm start and end settings in the PPM settings seems to have fixed my issue 
From watching your uploaded video I recognize this issue as one I too have faced at one point, but this is NOT a motor stuttering problem. This is a motor “jerking” problem due to the motor being loose on the motor mount. I thought I had completely fried one of my motors but it was simply jerking back and forth with torque because the motor mount screws are either stripped or just loose. Just with naked eye and no zoom you can still easily and clearly see the whole motor jerking back and forth, with a stutter you would only see the motor pulley appear to hesitate repeatedly when given enough power but the whole motor will NOT jerk back and forth. The ONLY way that can happen is if the motor is loose on the mount. You can also clearly see that at least your top motor mount screw is not tightened all the way down onto the mount. Make sure your motor is mounted solidly to the motor mounts and the issue will go away.
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