i’m fucking done with hex heads on socket caps and button top bolts and screws. I’m sick of the stripping and dremelling and flat heading.
thoughts?
i’m fucking done with hex heads on socket caps and button top bolts and screws. I’m sick of the stripping and dremelling and flat heading.
thoughts?
torx drivers work on hex as well! Seriously though, I stripped a screw on my @torqueboards motor mount to clamp, it’s forever stuck at its angle…
Those strip too, but change is sometimes good.
When I replaced the bolts on my TB mount I swapped them to torx.
I sleep better now.
what manner of device can strip the head in a socket cap torx bolt?
Yep, with ya the whole way.
Pretty sure it’s a hangover from building carbon fibre bikes though. I also get pretty nervous tightening anything without a torque wrench.
as a Mechanic thats has worked alot on German cars they use alot of Torx and Etorx both strip very easily if not using proper technique like making sure the tool is square with the bolt and not applying any torque at an angle. Allen is just as bad but they look pretty Hex head bolts are the best but arnt that pretty
I believe the same device used on hex. it’s ether called Over tightening or ill fitting tools. But I digress… Just start using M8
Are you using Stainless hex head bolts? They strip much easier than Carbon Steel bolts. Carbon steel is harder, Stainless steel is more flexible.
What type of steel are you using for your hardware? You get what you pay for. Sometimes you get less than you pay for when you buy from some Ebay/Chinese vendors. A Grade 8 steel would work nice and be cheaper to source in the US than metric. For Metric stuff, you would probably go for a 12.9 steel. If you use stainless with stainless nuts, you can get BAD galling and they damn near become welded together.
So true! We use a lot of SS hardware where I work and have to use anti-seize on the threads.
Apparently hex Plus tools can solve the issue, and even remove stripped out hex bolts. They hold a larger torque before stripping.
Yeah going up a size or two can help, and always use socket cap if there is space. Steel is better than stainless.
You should go for high quality Hex drivers… this makes a big difference… go for Hudy Tools… pricey but best Hexdrivers money can buy
i’m using non-stainless anodized rivet nuts and the rest of the screws and bolts are going into aluminum with the exception of the truck bolts which are non-stainless.
That video was pretty convincing. Even when he did strip it with the standard wrench, he was able to still get in there. I also noticed that the wrenches weren’t getting beaten up as much. You get a little more warning before the screw strips too. I needs me some Hex Plus… Beats having to extract a stripped screw. Especially on M5s and smaller this seems like a great solution. I need these for working on guitars too. Truss rod nuts can strip out and it can sometimes be a little bit of a task to extract it without damaging the wood finish. @longhairedboy These look pretty decent. I couldn’t find a better price. Not even on Evilbay. Free Shipping… https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05073593001-Multicolor-Metric-Blacklaser/dp/B009ODV0OE/ref=pd_bxgy_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009ODV0OE&pd_rd_r=G4EEECE8NTHAS4THDRV7&pd_rd_w=QaDim&pd_rd_wg=YHUqk&psc=1&refRID=G4EEECE8NTHAS4THDRV7
Just got my Wera set today!! Great topic @longhairedboy. I didn’t think there was a better solution until I read this!!
Even using the wrong socket size causes stripping. It may seem like a socket fits, but using the opposite system (metric or English) can make a tighter fit. If it wiggles its probably the wrong size
I have used a slightly oversize torx wrench to undo a stripped hex grub screw before… it works…
yeah i do that all the time. It works like a charm most of the time.
No love for Robertson Screws (square head)?