I have my chains connected by master link, so I can unclip it for wheel change. Anyway I’m really impressed by the terrain this board can deal with, it’s simply awesome. Only downside of riding eMTB on a road is how fast tires wear out, after about 200 km, I see that about 50% of tread has worn out, and spares cost $$$ 
I’m ordering budget slicks and gonna give trampa primo alpha a shot.
Hit me up @PM with link to Your build-thread @Kaly, would love to see it.
Ok so I had another failure while ago, while jumping off a curb as a result of vibration short happened in one motor, and in consequence of that one VESC failed (burned traces on pcb… probably drv chip died first) … I bought VESC circuit board from ebay and resoldered all components except drv chip, which I replaced with new one, will find out soon how this worked out. I tried to salvage motor by coating windings with epoxy, but it didn’t help. New motor is on its way, I’ll coat it with epoxy when it comes to me. I tried to disassemble motor to see if I’ll be able to rewind it but couldn’t get this alu bearing housing front cap out of stator… Here is result of coating windings with epoxy, I highly recommend it, vibration is a bitch…
Here are motors prepared for epoxy coating, I coated alu front caps with frekote, so epoxy wouldn’t stick to it.
And here are coated windings
Yes the vibrations are hardcore. Much worse on a street setup. Hopefully your motor temp will stay low. The epoxy is a thermal insulation.
That’s great news! I’m glad you got that skill hooked up. Did you use hot air and a reflow oven or did you find some other method? Just curious. I would love to add that skill to my toolbox. KInd of essential if you want to use the VESC and beat the snot out of it. LOL Until the ESK8 community burns through the world supply of DRV8302, we should be good… You can PM me if you want. I don’t want to jack your thread, but I’ll bet others are curious as well.
I mentioned it somewhere on the forum in VESC related thread. I used heat gun, and portable gas soldering iron (with removed tip, so it blows hot air), good preheating of the board is essential, and remember to cover jst connectors with kapton or something heat resistant 
good luck!
Today I received 2 fresh maytech electric skateboard 12S sensored ESCs, they look really nice and will be replacing VESCs in my EMTB.
Chaka offered help at the beginning but then turned his back towards me and said he’ll be not doing anymore business with me, so summing up he didn’t repair any ollin VESC of mine. Funny thing is he even offered to replace the one that was fried but, obviously, didn’t deliver. So myself as well as few (or maybe more?) people are on ollinboard company black list 
Anyway, here are pics of maytech 120A ESCs, they look inside like torqueboards 12S ESC which almost everyone is happy about.
@squad probably just wasn’t economically feasible for @chaka to continue doing repairs for all your blown vescs ahah.
Those do look exactly like the TB esc’s, let us know how they work! (TB esc’s are really just flashed Turnigy k-force 120a esc afaik)
Can you link me to your headlight, i like it alot, how do you have it connected to power it?
I bet those ESC will be the best option on the market for now for my EMTB.
This light has one big advantage, it can be supplied with 50V, from Your 12S, so no need to step down voltage or use additional pack, it’s controlled via antispark switch I made, but You can as well use normal switch.
Blown is an understatement. This guy knows how to fry a pcb proper. Funny how he somehow forgot to mention all the previous repairs I did for him. I suggest you look into why you continue to short circuit the vesc before you blow more hardware. Your refusal to do so was why I discontinued service. If you would have at the very least humored me with the possibility that something else was wrong with your system I would have continued to repair your VESC’s.
This last repair you sent was the last straw though. You simply said the VESC was throwing fault codes… When I received the VESC it would not even power on due to a short and some vaporised traces.
Get your system in order and I will be happy to help you once again but I can’t keep sending VESC’s to their death.
did they come with that anodized aluminum enclosure? that looks super sexy and proper for an mtb!! 
Yeah, keep stating that… and by all repairs You mean sending back one that was ok ? If I remember correctly I replaced drv chip on the other one myself.
Just don’t bother to write here anymore, and I won’t mention You.
Yes they do! I’m super stoked as it’s sensored version! Tight fit in my electronics case, with shunt, and all the rest but I’m able to close it.
it looks so great, would mount them nowind style without a case tbh - presented on a nice carbon plate! 
damn, I missed that you coated your stator windings - I wanted to do that to make the motors more silent (and to add robustness, but mostly silence)! how did it work out and what coating did you use for this? did you notce that they became any more silent? 
I have to much stuff in electronics case to do that It would look rather like shahid belt on my board
I’m just waiting for nano 2,4GHz controller I ordered from aliexpress, hope it arrives soon.
I didn’t test it yet, I used normal car epoxy resin, there is probably better stuff to use for this, I used what I had. I’ll write as soon as I’ll get some data about performance, I hope that this coating will prevent from similar motor failure as one of mine had, caused by vibrations… I have replacement one ready with all sensors, just waiting
hm, i think normal epoxy is not very robust to temperature? from my experience it gets soft @ 60degree+ and then re-cures again. had my motorbike rear fairing “melt” from exhaust heat!! 
@Hummie youre the expert here - what do you use to coat your motor windings and did it make any difference from a noise point of view?
I put this one in my oven set for 50 degrees to cure faster, I did not notice anything like You said. To be more exact I used polyester resin, which is proof up to 80 degrees according to datasheet. I used if before to make mikarta for knife handles and it handled much higher temps without any melt. I think it will do fine.
yea, there are resins that can take the heat. I used some air grade resin once that, after tempering, was robust up to 120degree, otherwise only to 60!
think wires are usually coated with some enamel. hm, Ill read up on that later tonight 
I made new mounting plate for ESC, and all wiring. Still waiting for this nano 2,4GHz remote tho… It’s currently in Laos… It’s pretty tight in there.
