Broken Boosted Board

Also I forget to tell that I have two cable that have been cut off when I was trying to remove the battery this is the two cable going to the esc I think (a small red and black wire) maybe the BMS can not work without these two cable ?

Try soldering them together again :slight_smile: and the isolate them so they wont short :slight_smile: If you measure 8.46V, how can 6 cells be 1.1V?! It would be 6.6V together…Something is wrong :confused: Try again :slight_smile:

Yes you right maybe I missed 1 cell I will measure my cells again this week and try to soldering the two cable

No matter. The voltage is way too low. The cells were damaged one way or another.

Is there a special way to open the battery pack up. I am trying to open mine but the glue is mad strong. @Sebious

You need to use an heat gun and put some strengh but be careful or you will broke the BMS

Heat around the bottom lid that holds the batteries?

I’ve been prying for and hour now. This stuff is sticky af.

EDIT: A Hammer worked.

You need to be patient if you heat the bottom lid it take me an hour to do it but I don’t know how you did it with an hammer lol

I used heat to pry the bottom lid enough to get my multimeter probes in to make sure the cells were dead. Literally 0V. That’s when I got the hammer out.

Prying from the top pointed edge with my hammer gave me enough leverage to just get the entire battery out.

didn’t read everything, but these A123 are very tough. I have a 12s2p pack, that I managed to drain to about 1.5v (for the whole 12s). Hobby chargers wouldn’t touch it. :frowning: but I read multiple accounts of people reviving these cells. My pack is built so I can split into 6s1p subpacks.

I connected a 6s1p section to a lab PSU, about 18v current limited at 0.5a. 18v/12 = 3v. Kept an eye on the voltage and temperature, let it come up to 18v, took a few hours. repeated for all 4 subpacks. They more or less held near 18v after taking them off. Put them on the hobby charger, and voila, back in business, maybe lost 10-15% of their capacity but they’re running great.

sooo, if the cells have not been previously badly abused and have not vented or anything like that, I think if you get about 2.5v at each cell, the BMS may decide it’s safe to charge again.

You could maybe get a psu and put about 30v at 0.5a at b+ and b-, perhaps desoldering the BMS connection first. it’ll take many hours to come up to 30v. If you’re worried the cells have been damaged, it’ll be good to check voltage at each cell fairly often at first. Unbalanced series charging with some toasted cells mixed in can be dangerous even with A123.

If the BMS is broken and draining the cells down, you still have a shot at salvaging the cells.

It look complicated I think I will try to replace all my A123 and if it don’t work I will take these cells to do an DIY project

Dude just give it a go it could save you heaps of money. All you need to do is connect a 30v-32v power supply to the battery leads and your done maybe just cut off or desolder the negative lead going the the bms. That’s it you could possibly save these cells

It’s not complicated. Get something like this:

follow instructions to make sure you’re in current limiting mode at around 30v (usually this involves turning knobs to minimum, shorting the leads, then raising the knobs slowly). set the current limit low, like 0.5A. This is for safety, so nothing happens too quickly.

Hook it up to the pack where you can watch it. When you hook it up the voltage will drop to close to zero, and current will be at what you set. Voltage will come up very slowly over many hours. If you have the case ripped off, check cell voltages from time to time to make sure they’re not too far apart. A small spread should be fixable by the BMS. A large spread, like 1v, stop and come up with a new plan. Also make sure things are not getting hot.

Once the voltage hits whatever you had set it to (the current should start dropping at this point), remove PSU, hook up bms and see if it’ll charge.

One of the good things about A123, it’s very unlikely to actually shoot flames. Maybe just some poison gas. :slight_smile:

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mmm poison gas

I’ve got a similar one of those power supplies wasn’t sure if I really needed it when I got it but has been really helpful with getting random voltage for little ICs I play with.

This all sounds like the BMS killed the battery pack :sweat_smile:.

It’s like UPS, eh? I get more outages from running small UPSes than from power going out.

I’d buy it from you. Would you be interested in that? @Sebious

I have a boosted v1 with dead battery on its way from Ebay seller… Just seeing here that its not 18650’s.:unamused:… Has anyone successfully replaced the a123 cells using original BMS… seems like the cells are readily available. Any tips?

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  1. you will have to change BMS, remote, reciever and ESC, because the boosted bms and esc are connected somehow…
  2. You can use 18650 cells, if the 26650 A123 cookies are not working…
  3. How much did you pay for it?
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You can get the same cells from nkon. Then just put them into the same configuration and your all set. I would possibly add some more in parallel to give you some more range

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