Maybe look into NylonG? I think Boosted uses Nylon G for its enclosures if I remember…
Nice that looks perfect, Nylon-X is basicly the same but instead of glass fiber reinforcement it has carbon fiber reinforcement.
Problem is I’m going to need an enclosure and to mod my printer quite a bit to be able to print nylon successfully.
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Nylon is tricky with it being so hydroscopic. Consider getting a dehydrator to dry it out. If you see steam coming out of the nozzle you need to dry it. Only takes a few hours for it to absorb enough moisture from the air to effect your print.
Also, it sticks to almost nothing so get some garolite g10 and use that as your print surface. That should give you enough stick to stop the part from warping. You can just stick a trash bag over the Ender during the print to retain heat.
If your going with glass or carbon fiber nylonX it will be more ridged but you should not print that with a brass nozzle. If you have e3d you can get the new NozzleX nozzle a print whatever you want.
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Second the sentiment nylon is tricky to print with and takes quite a bit of effort. I’ve used PVA Glue aka Elmers Glue and works incredibly well at holding the nylon part to the bed, but then the trouble is getting the part to release from the PVA glue. Just a drop will do and then can spread with water, the PVA is water soluable so you’d think you could just soak the whole glass bed and have the part pop off but the water seems to have a hard time getting under the part I always found myself prying and soaking it at the same time to get any part free after using the glue.
I printed a motor pulley with regular nylon no extra reinforcement and it worked fine for about a month or two and then started to deform so I went back to my metal one. For my wheel pulley I’ve been using a home made one but used a 3d printed model to make a mold using silicone then poured in resin for some much stronger solid plastic and it’s been holding up just fine.
I have a makergear m2 rev E. It was pretty pricey but I love it. I use mostly petg with some carbon x here and there. I really love ninjatek cheetah too.
I’ve used
Wanhao i3 Anet a8 Ultimaker 2 Ender 3
And I would take the ender 3 over all of those printers above. The ultimaker is terrible, I could write a book about how they should improve and for the price of one ultimaker I can probably buy around 10 ender 3s
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Look at PEI sheets, you won’t need slurry and adhesion issues are null for the most part.
The best thing about my lulzbot is the auto bed leveling. I think there’s an upgrade for the anet and ender lines.
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Within the last year I got a prusa i3 mk3 kit and used it to upgrade my old mk1 clone machine part of that upgrade process I added a bl-touch sensor (auto-level), modifying my x-axis to hold it on there was the “hardest” part really but honestly wasn’t that hard just took me forever to convince myself to do it. The bed leveling is a huge feature for sure, very rarely need to restart a print because of issues of the first layer not sticking because of things not being perfectly level
Also upgrade my old machine frame from acrylic to aluminum extrusion (and controller) so really the motors are basically the only original part on it 
^^ old machine after upgrade, printed many parts from prusa site for the x-axis gantry/z-axis, ordered some custom length metal parts from misumi (expensive but they’ll do whatever you want for a price) and using an Anet A8 all metal frame upgrade kit, mine wasn’t an anet a8 in the first place but close enough.
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I use the Original Prusa i3 Mk2s and Mk3 for all my builds. Great machines, great layer adhesion, and great filament choices.
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I use a Raise3D Pro2 and the Prusa I3 MK3 with Bondtech extruder and MMU2.
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i actually just ordered the auto bed leveling kit and the silicon carbon glass bed.
i just need a all metal hot end now.
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slightly off topic.
anyone else feel like they’re watching paint dry while they wait for a print to finish?
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Im having some bed leveling issues now i had no problem leveling and printing nice prints for 3 days straight of printing but now i cant get a good print no matter how i level the bed. Im thinking maybe my bed got warped maybe. I just got my glass bed ill try that next.
Has this happened to anyone with an Ender 3?
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are you using the default bed?
Do you know how to use CAD software? If you can then I will send you the files as it is and you are free to do whatever you want with it
I use Ender 3, best for the value, great for starters. But it’s far from perfection, warped bed, crap Bowden tube and couplers giving a trouble with some models due to underextrudion etc
Not familiar with cad but i am trying to learn. Id love the files.
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I have a BL touch kit coming in just waiting for that. Its just weird how it was easy to level the bed properly and now its very difficult. Makes me think something else is wrong like a warped bed. Glass should be relatively flat so ill try leveling on that surface.
Edit my problems all started after removing a few larger very stuck prints just by pulling up on the magnetic bed i may have caused it my self.
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That’s funny, these are the 3 things in my list of necessary purchased upgrades for the ender 3.
Upgrade total cost is ~$50 and worth it.
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And what kind of magic will fix that warped bed?
Sheet of glas won’t…