Looking awesome
How much clearance do you have between the ground and the drive ?
It ended up being identical to Kug3lis’ inner drive to give it sufficient clearance from the gears and enough material, but it has a bit more clearance compared to the 72t belt drive I was previously using.
Edit: I must have more clearance (about 1 cm) as kugl3lsis’ drive is lining up with the upper line of the tire where mine is lining up almost with the rim border.
Looks like there will not be a smaller direct/inner drive version, unless you work with multiple gears or a different gear ratio.
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Concentric infill. It’s a thing of beauty.
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That looks great for a PLA print, did you postprocess it in any way? And would you mind sharing you printer setup and the filament?
No post processing.
Cheap and old Wanhao i3, 0.4 nozzle. The filament came with the printer/creativetools.se.
Actually need more retraction, but haven’t bothered to fine tune that setting. Printing temp relatively high at 230, cooling fan at 60% starting at layer 1.
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Printing speed of armadillo filament so far has to be super slow (50% of pla), otherwise it starts stringing like crazy and drags perimeters around. 230 degree, higher and the surface becomes rough.
Print came out nice though. The stuff is sturdy and slippery feeling like nylon. Just need to sand down the elephants foot.
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really nice!
What kind of tooth profile is that? How do you generate the gears? I can do quite some things in cad but gears i’m little bit struggling. any tips?
I download the CAD files from the manufacturer. In case the 3D print fails, I can just buy the stock part and have it machined to my liking.
The module 2 spur gear was downloaded from https://www.tracepartsonline.net
Many parts can be found there.
Regarding gear printing. I recommend a bevel at the top and bottom to prevent differences in width. Both the bottom and top are slightly wider than the middle. Smaller is less of an issue.
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Thanks Telnoi, your print looks so good !!
The 1st one looks almost like a CNC POM Gear 
Thanks Riako. Just allot of patience and slow printing involved.
Moving closer toward the final design.
Connection of spur gear and wheel is a bigger challenge without aluminum parts. Possible to use 75mm m4 screws which would hold the hubs and the spur gear parts together, but I’d also have to remove those screws to take off the wheels.
Preferred solution…sadly, another alu part. I believe plastic would strip too easily with the forces applied.
Test fitting what I have so far. Deck can have full motion, barely misses the motor mount when fully compressing the springs.
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I made something similar, but i had not enough balls to try printed gears, some other parts are (also mechanical ones). Did you test the printed gear already?
The drive has been designed in such a way as to allow for the incorporation of adjusted stock parts. If all fits, the gears will be made out of an adjusted stock POM gear.
I will give the printed gears a shot, but I am often speeding around at around 45 km/h. I don’t think I will ever trust printed gears enough to go that fast, but who knows. They might surpass my expectations.
Sounds good:) please report back how the printed gears perform
will do. Depending on how it goes, it might take a while. @Nowind Can I sell you a kidney in exchange for a reliable drive.
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Yeah of course, always good to have a spare kidney 
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postponed until I have put together my own CNC.
I have printed two different wheel spur gears and both are wobbly. The distance from the hub to where the actual gear is located is rather large, so any error in print bed leveling or the printer frame will make the issue worse the longer the object becomes. The same will be true for any CNC equipment.
Involute direct drive has smaller distances, thus that is most certainly the way to go to reduce such errors.
I never needed such precision before, but with these type of projects…you do.
Oh man i never considered that, i should test my gears somehow independently from the wheel. On the wheel they are a bit wobbly but only sideways and not up and down if that make sense. Still trying to figure out why, i even counted the individual rotiations on each screw while attaching the gear to the wheel.
Might be because a 350€ 3D Printer isn’t as precise as a professional CNC machine but oh well 
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Might even be that the superstar hub is not 100% straight. Can’t tell with a printed gear, but holding my finger against the rim I also noticed a small deviation.
Having a support bearing in the gear like Jens has might help resolve some of that.
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Any progress on this?
Yes, I bought an e-toxx drive
The design worked, but my printer is just not up to the task. Too inaccurate.I asked someone else to print the gears, but his results were even worse.
I figured my safety is worth the cash and I opted for something that is reliable.
If I had a CNC machine, things would be different. The ones precise enough to do this are too expensive at the moment (6000 EUR).
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