Don’t want to pollute @Der6FingerJo’s thread, thus starting my own. I am heavily inspired by him and others (Jens & Kug3lis) pioneering direct drives, where I try to make it affordable for personal use with the tools at my disposal. I will not release the CAD files out of respect for those who came up with the original designs, neither will I sell the drive.
Direct drive, two V-Ring seals and in the end a custom TPU seal to close off the other side of the hangar/motor mount. Still have to determine the distance between the wheels and the drive, thus distance bolts and truck clamp might change.
Motor gear will be metal. Wheel gear at first 3D printed, later most likely POM (stock spur gear needs to be milled and adjusted slightly).
Yeah this design is stunning - incredible that you’re able to make your own version, and I love your ethos of being inspired and creating a like design without trying to produce it outside of your own use. With these guys in mind, I’d have to say if you’re going dual FOCBOX I’d grab one of @Kug3lis dual CNC encolsures and save the money on the 206 ultrabox. Unless you need it to be completely waterproof then stick with the plan.
Looks great! I like the combination of additive and subtractive manufacturing on this one
Definitely interesting to see more people with 3d printed gears and how they will hold up!
Thx. Thought about using that enclosure, but I’d have to move a few components elsewhere and would have to find a way or making it waterproof. It does look a heck of allot cleaner through.
I only used them on the bench, 40km/h calculatet. I leave them out afterwards, not much pressure. Next time i put a thin metal cylinder over the pom part, should fix that.
Yes, that should do the trick. That at least means I have to think about CNC cutting the side that is in direct contact with the v-ring, since the glass temperature of the 3D printed material is most likely lower than that of POM.
Indeed. Ordered some Ninjatek Armadillo, as I can’t print ABS.
Supposedly a very hard TPU variety. Marketing blabla:
► Shore Hardness = 75D
► Excellent bridging capabilities and virtually no warping
► Abrasion resistance 84% better than PLA and 60% better than ABS
► Chemical resistance to many materials, including naphtha, ASTM Oils #1-3, petroleum and freon
► Consistent diameter and material properties providing reliable, high quality prints
► No heated bed required. Build platform requires same prep as PLA
Good thing, it can be lubed with a fair amount of stuff due to its chemical resistance. Success will depend on how stiff it is. With only 1 or two teeth grabbing, that needs to be good.
I didn’t notice any marks on my Holypro deck straight after unboxing…
They won’t affect the board in any meaningful way but it’s a bummer this happened. Guess it’s your call wether you can wait for a replacement.
I actually encountered some problems on a holly pro 35, screw trucks messed up … anormal game in a rim … and a primo alpha tire stamped primo stricker …and some trace on the carbon … so effected nothing very bad but when you see the price of a board …