It was talked about at the 2018 Wcup. Just the rumor.
Thx !! I hope too 
Yes, I think you could find it in the expert tab.
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Well done. Sounds like everything was clicking for you. In most sports Iâve tried, Iâve found that after a lot of intense practice, analysis and unexplained âoffâ days, stepping away and sleeping on it for a few days helps things click into place effortlessly the next time out.
Now that youâve tried RWD and FWD, is 4WD next?
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Yeah I have the same experience with sports. In my younger days I was competing at the world series in fencing for 20 years and I fund that I never really could know when when the unexplained off or good days would be there. Tried to find a parttern but never did.
4wd must be next to try. When I get some more experience with more gear, I think I will try to build a dedicated track board featuring all I have learned. But there are still things to explore before I am ready for that.
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I went to the track yesterday with my new Xapham deck from mr. Jamie. I knew it wouldnât be, but I couldnât help naively thinking that it would be enough just to swap deck. It wasnât⌠I didnât change anything but the longer deck, the Xapham is, from the setup with the Obeah6 deck. It didnât work!
The turning capabilities and feeling was totally changed, and it didnât feel good. I was far from being fast when cornering and I was far from my best lap time (4sec). It just didnât feel right.
After 45 min. of frustration it was clear that I needed to work on the wedging and maybe the bushings. Right now the setup is: Front: 55degrees and double barrel 87a krank. Rear: 35degrees and double barrel 90a krank. I think the bushings are ok and I want to work on the wedging first. Thinking of making it 60 front and 50 rear. to begin with. Any other suggestions?
Apart from the cornering here are my first time on the track thoughts on the longer deck.
Cons:
Length: I might get too wide a stance. When locoking in both feet between the drop and the W concave it feels a bit too wide when cornering. The feeling is that I loose some of the capability to push with my feet. Might just be that I need to get used to this wider stance. Donât know. I defiantly need a wider stance from the Obeah deck, but maybe this is too much. Let me get more time on the this deck and see if this feeling continues.
Oversteering: It seemed that this set up is a little more prone to oversteering. Maybe because of the added length?
Pros:
Length and width: This defiantly gives more stability. And the acceleration can be pushed with this.
Drop and concave: The drop on the Xapham are deeper than the Obeah. The rear drop works great as support when acceleration hard. The added length and the bag drop gave a nice feeling when acceleration from zero.
Letâs see what happens when I dial in the wedging.
Even though the drop is a nice support I have been wondering if a no drop deck would give an advantage with some added leverage over the trucks. One day I will find out.
Front wheel drive: I really donât know⌠wheels spin easier and I might just like the weight in the rear. I had traction control on this time, but it didnât seem to do anything. Does the traction control work between wheels. So when one wheel spins it controls that wheel. Or is it also when both wheels spin (@Hummie)? Will keep the FWD while dialing in the wedging and then change and see what I like best.
Traction control wonât let one wheel spin out when riding. Maybe if could let two wheels spin out if powered enough but it wonât let a single wheel spin. I notice it on sharp turns where a wheel comes unweighted and would otherwise spin out or when on wet leaves braking downhill
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If oversteer is the issue (turning too much and causing the rear end to slide), I think you will be better off reducing the front wedge to 50 or 45 degrees keeping the rear at 35 to move towards understeer and find the centerpoint between oversteer and understeer.
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Wanting to define on this a bit more. Oversteer would mean your losing the rear or have a loose or free setup. (As per auto lingo)
How much turn input effort compared to old setup?
Did it feel like you need more grip on the rear?
Does it feel like the trucks are locking out at any point in the turn?
Whatâs impressive is : the same thing should work pretty good on skates. Iâll get that and report, thanks for the tip !
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Thanks Brad. I donât completely understand what you write. The first 3 pictures you post the center of cravity is nothing but over the deck?
The thing is⌠the more I lean forward the more I feel that I âlooseâ the rear wheels, having a feeling they can slip easier because they have less weight on them. When I have experienced oversteer it seems to be better when I put some more weight on my rear leg to get some more traction on the rear wheels.
When I do tight turns with high speed I feel that I need to hang out therein order to counter weight the turning forces. These speed skaters center of gravity are almost as far from their âboardsâ as they can get. If their skates slip they are fucked as well. Thats what I mean.
But again, I might not completely understand what you mean.
It would be awesome to be able to do a curve (open or tight) where I can be much more over the board, so I am up for any suggestion, that I can try out on the track.
Maybe I can get you to explain again with different wording? I know you have already used a lot of words and might not be able to find others. Maybe I could get you to spend a minute watching this video and tell me what you see?
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Yes thatâs what I experience. With the longer deck I feel that I get less weight on the rear, giving it less traction and then more prone for sliding out.
I felt that I need to put in more effort to turn - bigger turning radius. Needed to push sideways in to the board more. Making me feel that its not only the boards own turning force that push the board sideways bit that I had to do it as well. Thats why I think I need to work on the wedging and see if I can chance this.
mmm⌠hard to tell. But year I think so.
Not yet. Feels like I can work with wedged to give it more turning without the trucks locking up.
I still canât figure out completely what it was that didnât feel right. I think the main two things was the turning effort/radius which gives meaning as I didnât change wedging or bushings from the shorter deck. And secondly the feeling of having less weight over the rear truck because of the added distance between legs, and with me always having more weight on the front leg.
I felt that I couldnât let go and give it full effort in the corners and of of the corners. Couldnât hang there and counter the g-force with all I have.
But this was my first time on the deck. Maybe its just because I need more time on it to lean the new behavior. I will see if I can get some time on the deck this weekend out side and see if I can find out what to change before next weeks track session. If anything.
Ok I saw this video: This is what @Alphamail suggested some posts ago. This is also what I feel I need to do when cornering.
âbut as you comes into the corner you shift your weight to distribute it through all four wheels of the board so you can maximize your gripâ
From 2:56 and 15 sec. forward
Itâs all about grip.
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With your past experience from adjustment successes, the first thought is usually correct. With the longer wheel base and lower gravity center I think youâre right to start with adding truck angle.
What has worked for me when trying to find a workable point in a baseline setup. âMake one change at a time.â If you make multiple changes you could be masking one new problem and fixing another. When you go to track test have an alternative setup plan ready.
100% correct. An unloaded wheel has less grip. The 50/45 duro split is for this very reason. Front axel is naturally loaded more than the rear with the exception of hard accel. The Dynamics of what your doing (accel, decel, lateral loading) is all extreme when compared to gravity on PU. Relying on rear grip by committing more weight to it is a bit of a leap of faith, but necessary. Like finding a balance setup with a car, weight distribution is just as important to balance grip on a raceboard. By softening the rear wheel compound, it allows the front to be loaded more while maintaining overall balance grip. Balanced grip is ultimately determined by the riders application of weight distribution front to rear. Loading the rear in a turn feels unnatural. I can see how with the new wider stance the tendency to unload the rear would be automatic. Looking fwd to the next setup and progress report.
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Am I wrong in thinking grip is largely determined by duro no matter what the material within reason? I looked a lot online. There may be better rebound to different materials but if itâs soft and fills the tiny indents in the road surface you stick no? People were saying air tires stick better but that seems because they let so much air out and they deform to the surface better; if they pumped up those tires it would be a hugely different grip story just like with a bike.
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I can speak for rubber. Itâs all about matching duro/compound to applied force, surface temp and surface type. To hard you lose grip, to soft you lose grip. One compound will make good grip on a 130f track surface and be undesirable at 150f. There is always speed to made with the correct compound for the application. Youâre only as good as your contact patch.
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with a small contact patch youâd want softer I imagine and it seems the contact patch can be compensated for. but it seems thereâs no sure winner of grippiest material. PU could be just as good as nitrile if soft enough, or as you say possibly hard enough, for the course.
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quote=âHummie, post:199, topic:75142â]
thereâs no sure winner of grippiest material. PU could be just as good
[/quote]
PU is great for a lot of applications. Still waiting for grip to be one of them.
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I havenât tried rubber yet but with my inlines good PU makes wonder on dry surfaces. Sticky AF with the thin patch! Depending on duro compound thereâs still lot of room for more grip than I currently have.
On wet roads thoâŚ
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But is it the actual Pu that sucks in rain or is it the smoothness. I never want to ride when itâs wet let alone raining
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Lately I have been bitching about the SR venturi hanger seats that physically block lean. Yesterday and today I have played with cone bushings (87a krank) in the front truck. I tried every possible configuration and this worked best.
Itâs opposite of what @Alphamail suggests how the cone bushing should be mounted. This takes away some of physical barrier. There is still some phycsical barrier and itâs not perfect but it seems to be close. I would like the lean feeling to be perfect, so I will still try to do the SR mod. Though I think I could give the front a couple of degrees more in wedging and make this set up better. I properly will do that, but I want to see how this performs on the track.
I think I will get closer to what I want by also using his cone setup (90a) in the rear truck. I just need to order some more cones and that takes time.
I also changed the truck base to 50 degrees rear. So now the set up is: Front: 55 degrees. double cone 87a krank (narrow end toward hanger). Rear: 50 degrees. double barrel 90a krank.
It feels plenty stable. I am close to the lean and turning I want. Lets see how it performs on the track this week.
I also explored the weight distribution front to rear while doing turns. It feels kinda ok to put more weight on the rear leg, when I began to overcome the natural want of putting most of the weight on the front foot.
I feel prepared for the track now 
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