If you have a Y-split cable for your receiver, you want the 5V only from one vesc. That’s why you need to cut the 5V wire on one site. If you run via CAN and use a normal cable for your receiver you don’t have to do anything
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Traxxas waterproof RX box.
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ESCs, RX and waterproof box mounted. Now to sort the wire spaghetti and do some soldering.
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I’ll say one thing, when my Kinchrome hex key gave up and went round, the Wera replacement rounded some of the screws and not a scratch on the key. That’s another thing I had to buy though.
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Tidied up and mounted, plus a neat solution for my motor wires direct mounted to the e-toxx drives with 12mm hex cap bolts, some heat shrink and plastic ties.
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Also, LOVE these tools.
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best investigation 
Need to buy solder wick today for a less than desirable job last night. I couldn’t close the connector tail over the joints the way it was designed to.
Also, holy cable management batman! How do I make it look a little less like a science experiment?
i like the look of the esc with the cables coming out in the back to the top… 
why you fixed the cables from the motors on the gear drive and not only root them up to the esc?
just add some cable protection and it will look a bit less like science 
The wires from the motor are solid copper and inflexible, they’re attached to the drive to prevent breakage in the motor can where they connect to the internals.
The silicone encased wires attached after the MT60 connector are flexible and will allow for movement without breaking.
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This soldering stuff is hard work! Not going to be the cleanest build to start off with, but it’ll work.
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Are those Graphen lipos? How you plan to mount them?
Yes, 2x Turnigy 6,000mAh 4S Graphene LiPos mounted to make 8S1P (might go 8S2P later).
I plan to Velcro them sideways to the top middle of the deck as they are, unless I have to seal them first.
It powers up! I also added the TPU drive guards, after getting the M4x8mm bolts I was after.
Now to make the wiring look acceptably neat, build the remote into its smaller casing, and do the anti-puncture and balancing of the wheels.
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Remote built. Took me about an hour, including pack out and pack up. I don’t have a workbench. Yet.
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Note to self: When binding and calibrating remote connection, wait for wheels to stop before setting it down.
DON’T DO BURNOUTS ON THE DINNER TABLE! #likelytocausetroublewiththewife
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FUUUWOW! It’s alive! Thought I’d ease into it at punch level 1 and 50% brake, plus careful trigger use, but it still kicks ass!
No smoke either, which is always a bonus on your first build. Need to do something about tidying up that wiring some.
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Did my first morning commute to the train station. Sounds like I’m from the future with these ESCs! High speed stability suffered a little with the green dampas, but turning radius still sucks. I see some @Nowind elastomere replacements in my near future.
Acceleration is truly brutal, be respectful of technology level brutal. I’m going to be learning better trigger control, but can already see that I’ll be creating a PWM controller soon. I can at least code (17 years experience), so maybe it’ll be a holiday project.
Brakes are good except at low speed, doesn’t come to a full stop, wonder if the drag brake setting can sort this out. I had a little bump with a pole due to this and the poor turning radius, lucky it was only like 3km/h and I have the e-toxx bumper.
This is what I should have done from the start, NO comparison to the Evolve BGT. For one, I can fly up a hill, so much better than sagging up a hill. I have a 26% gradient hill just before I’m home, so it’s important.
Question, does the Max6 ESC convert braking into noise and heat? Because I had full brakes on a full charge, so assuming its not regenerative.
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This remote though, can’t shake the mental image.
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If the board is braking at neutral throttle, brake setting 100% drag 0%, then calibration is off correct? I should be able to coast?