I know what you are talking but don’t have one, it could work, but even with a sharp chisel it was hard work to clean everything
For the 3D printer I use a spray that adheres really well and the part pops right off when it cools down, even with ABS
Charging and nothing exploded 
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Why not use nylon? It’s lightly flexible, has crazy good layer adhesion (whenever nylon breaks for me it just splits across the whole part, no mind to any layers), nylon can really take a good beating before giving up. I made my boost converter mount out of nylon and that thing’s four legs (1cm diameter each) have been holding the entire weight of a 6S2P battery + boost converter/heat sink for almost a year under constant vibration (I didn’t design the mount the best I could have to handle vibrations) and it’s only now starting to show signs of failing on one of the legs. I super glued it in that tiny corner and it’s still going strong. I’ve tried ABS, PETG, but I always come back to nylon because I know all my PETG will fail where I would otherwise use Nylon.
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Thanks for the tip, I always heard that it’s difficult to print, what printer do you have and what nozzle temperature do you use?
I will see if I can find some locally to give a try
Board almost done, just fully charging and testing if the cells stays balanced, so far so good.
Unfortunately on my tinkering with my charger I messed it up a bit, it overheats and shut down after a few minutes so I have to slowly raise the voltage to prevent it from going full current, also if I set it to 42V it immediately shuts down
It’s a shame, I haven’t found another that is cheap and have adjustable voltage, it worked really good all these years
@PXSS another group buy maybe? 
I have the PowerSpec Duplicator I3 Plus with an all metal hot end. With Nylon I normally print at 250C with the bed at 105-110C.
All the ABS I have had i’ve basically never used much because of the difficulty to print with. Nylon parts on glass stick pretty well with a few layers of glue stick and the printer fully enclosed. They do break loose and warp sometimes, just need to learn how to minimize it.
If you have an enclosure and all metal hot end, give it a try for yourself. Tulman nylon is pretty expensive, so I just get the cheap shit, but they have stuff that’s optimized for all sorts of different applications, be it printability, durability, flexibility, you name it.
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Unfortunately I don’t have an all metal hot end, the hottest I ever printed is 245°C
My experience is the contrary, ABS is pics of cake for me to print, always was
I may try it, the worst that can happen is the Teflon tube melting and a mess to clean up. I have an enclosure but it doesn’t get that hot since it’s a bit bigger than the printer, but does wonder to the print quality
My printer is pretty bad, it’s a i3 Mk1 or mk2 clone with an acrilic frame that warps like hell, I want to upgradr but can’t justfy at the moment, probably a i3 MK3 or design one from scratch using the electronics I already have
Don’t. When teflon breaks down it produces fumes that are apparently very very toxic. Just get a all metal hotend from aliexpress for <$10. You just have to print slowly because retractions can’t be that big(they clog otherwise).
But if you are willing to invest $40 or so you can get pretty good all metal direct drive extruders. Small retractions are all that you need with them by default.
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Good to know before I kill my self
For now I will stick to ABS then
Or try nylon at 245°C
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Yeah, alloy 910 will work well at 245, but make sure you have a dry box/desiccator.
Even better, try TPU. They won’t crack or tear and level of protection from small rocks is pretty good too. Big rocks hitting or belly scraping is a problem.
Perfect, let me see if I can find it here
I always keep a dry box inside the enclosure to keep the filaments dry
First ride with new battery, can’t say much since the current settings are the same until l switch to the XT90S, but the sag is way lower at full current
A huge thanks to @Arch for the tip of dampening the rattle, I used a thick cloth piece that covers all the electronics, all the noise went away, just the bushings squeak a bit, will lube them
My 70km ride was cut way short due to my remote disconnecting every few minutes and only working again by resetting the board. Too dangerous to ride
But Today was Electric Mobility day here in São Paulo, really cool, lots of nice people and great to see at least some places pushing for eletrefication here in Brazil
We had a a ride with only electric and hybrid vehicles. Bikes, scooters, monocycles, cars, buses, motorcycles and etc, and finally I made my dream of seeing a Tesla in real life come true 
, even if it was an old 70D, next one is to actually drive one
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whaaaaaat??? 10s5p 30Q???
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Yep, chill riding I average 7.1 Wh/km
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how to the gummies ride compared to pneumatics?
I’m planning an AT build list and i’m unsure of whether to go with gummies or pneumatics.
weary about pneumatics due to flats
thanks! 
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I haven’t tried them yet, will do in a week or two since now I’m running Kegels
veeeery rough
With the 7" evolve tires I never had flats because they are thick and durable. With standard MTB tires I get easily several punctures each tube. But green slime solves this issue.
@Pedrodemio doesn’t know it yet but he is a big fan of pneumatics
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lets see, printing the pulley for the 6.5" tires at the moment
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