The Stage | Hummie Deck | Gummies | 6.5" Trampa Treads | Geared and DD | Dual VESC 6 | Dual 6355 | 10S5P | 3D Print

Unfortunately time for a few repairs, the enclosure has cracked is multiple locations, I’ve been riding a lot off road and it’s been being hot by rocks all the time

Also there is a bit of humidity inside, I can’t say if it’s really water or the silicone is outgassing, on the motor wires entrance it’s probably water

I will probably get and enclosure from @bigben and mod it with a few 3D printed parts on the back, will go back to using connectors for the motor and sensor wires, it’s the only way to be true waterproof

The 105P will probably have to wait until all that is sorted

In the meantime I’m working on a ebike using some parts I have laying around since there are some places that it would be better

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Change of plans

After inspecting more carefully, the enclosure is done, superglue in the cracks should make it last a bit more. Ordered onde with @bigben

The plan is to make a 3D printed piece that holds MT60 connectors for the motors plus the one on the picture for sensors, plus I’m ditching my Vedder anti spark and going to XT90S, less headache than trying to find one that can cope with the 100A peak of the 10S5P, and I think I will integrate in this piece the charge connector and the battery level LED’s, this way there is no wire connecting the enclosure to the board and it will be fully waterproof

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Sorry about the enclosure that sucks :unamused:

It looks like there is no space between the head of the screws and the enclosure so there is zero room for movement, just a thought.

That 6-pin connector looks good, what’s the diameter/size?

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I think you are right, if I’ve done like the initial plan of using rubber washers it may have allowed enough movement to avoid cracks, it didn’t even crossed my mind that it the flex that made it crack

I think it’s 12mm, need to confirm, fully waterproof

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After melting a ton of charge ports I gave up and epoxied a XT60 in its place, now I can melt the battery before the plug :grin:

I lost the waterproof ness, but since I have more cracks than I can count on the enclosure nothing changed

Also started working on the battery again

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what charger is that?

It’s from this group buy from a few years back

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I did a big mistake

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Now I don’t want to go back to the Gummies. The riding feel of being closed to the ground is much better, I need to ride more, but I’m starting to think that the bigger difference in comfort of this board is due to the Hummie deck, not the wheels

Of course, they Gummies can deal with much bigger cracks and holes without getting unsafe when in traffic

Motor clearance is non existent

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One detail is that the Kegels make way more road noise

I wish I had some Boas constrictor to try, it would be perfect in this board

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I keep going back to smaller wheels as well. I don’t fully understand why but it just feels more connected to the road which increases my confidence and as a consequence my enjoyment

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Exactly, I had more fun riding some 20 minutes on them before started to rain than any other recent ride

I’ve said this before, but either I need a mountain board with crazy range or I need to move, the ridings options around here are limited, there isn’t great places to ride, and the few that are good I already know them really well, o MTB would open a lot of places to go, but I would need something like 100km of range to be worth

Rode 30 km today in a variety of roads

It’s really hard to express how they compare, but I will try

The main explanation I can give is the diference between micro and macro dampening, think micro dampening how the wheel can damp point loads, like really small rocks and roda imperfections, and macro dampening how the wheel as a whole can cope with larger cracks, bad roads, big rock,etc

On smooth to okay roads the Kegels win by a mile, the board is more agile and responds quicker, that what 1 kg lighter does and most important, less rotational inertia, I may do the calculations latter to see how much diference there is the moment of inertia of both wheels and how do they compare on with the inertia of the board plus me

Second, I really need new pulleys for the Gummies, the Kegels pulleys are almost new, and the board is ridiculously quiet, even at full acceleration, a pleasure to ride, it almost feels like you are floating

The down side comes when big rocks and larger gaps in the road start to show, they can lock the wheels, get between the motor and the road and brake the board, but this is more a problem of how my board is designed, not the wheels

On really bad roads the Gummies shine, there is some places I have to go slower than walking with Kegels, before I could go at least twice or more the speed

Consumption is a little bit better, from 12 Wh/km to 9.5 Wh/km, I’m almost sure it’s due to I’m not being as confidente riding the smaller wheels and the energy it takes to accelerate the Gummies, plus the bigger contact surface to the ground

In other words, the Gummies are great for those who don’t want to go pneumatics, but how I wish the roads were a little bit better so I could stay with Kegels

IMG_7536%20(Editado)

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Just read this entire thread. Brilliant work, your attention to detail is so good and I love how you documented every single step. Bravo!

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Thanks a lot, hope it helps anyone trying to do something similar

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Hey @Pedrodemio, what are your thoughts on the feasibility of 3d printed enclosures? It seems that all 3d printed enclosures break earlier than what you would hope for. Do you think it’s a matter of designing them properly, using the correct materials or are they just not strong enough?

Use a harder TPU, it can’t break.

I have some SaintSmart TPU which I think is the hardest kind. I don’t think the flex (even if little) is acceptable for this application.

I usually have hard boxes inside for batteries and ESC, so this TPU will like a tough skin for small rocks, dirt, water etc. It will also conform nicely to the curvature of the board.

I have the sainsmart stuff too. Seems like 1kg roll would be enough for an enclosure(say 3mm thick)

It’s possible with no problems, mine failed for a few reasons

  • Infill too low, should’ve used 100%
  • Natural ABS has better layer bonding, this black one I’ve used is a mess to glue with MEK, and not so good layer adhesion
  • The aluminum washer caused a lot of stress concentration on the screws seats, making them larger and using a rubber washer would have helped
  • wall too thin, they are all 2.4mm if I’m nos mistaken, at least 3 is good, on the side I could have easily done thicker without changing the design

If you want the enclosure to be used a somewhat flex board you can’t use a rigid material or you will have even bigger problems, this was one of the reasons for the thin walls

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New battery almost done, just need to join the halves

It’s late and I was making stupid mistakes, better continue tomorrow before something catches fire

Tomorrow it goes into the board, but first I have to find a way to remove the old battery without destroying it, it’s glued with silicone

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The scraper from your 3d printer? Sharp thin and flexible