The TPU is fine, it just rubbed on the tires and turned black, so I need to work on those tolerances a bit.
The gears were in perfect condition. I do need to do better to seal the enclosure, there were a few bits of shredded grass inside the enclosure after the ride, but not much… and no rocks or sand thankfully. The PETG enclosure itself took a hit from the edge of a sidewalk and shattered, nylon would just bend, and if that were the case i’d still be riding my gear drive probably.
It’s been a while since I’ve updated this thread. My antispark switch blew out on me. 
I’m working on a 2S16P pack, hopefully to be able to deliver 80A, out of salvaged laptop cells, to booost my 10S to 12S.
Putting together an antispark XT-90 to replace the rocker switch.
I’ll update later on maybe when it all comes together. Beer. 
Got just enough beer. Board works again. Yeeeeeet yeeeeper yeeet
Ah I’m gonna glue the cable thing to the enclosure now.
Thingy glued 
Progress finally on a voltage booster.
I was sketched out about using my 2S many P vruzend kit due to the 4A per cell limitation, and because of the overall size. Also, it really is a mishmash of cells from all over the place, but at least the P groups are as closely matched in overall Ah as possible.
Regardless, I decided I don’t need to go 48 mph weighted, up from 40mph on my current gearing with that crazy pack… whatever it is.
So I used some old salvaged LG laptop cells 
to put together a gigantic 1S pack to boost voltage 3-4v, giving me an extra 3-4 mph top speed.
It’s a 1S26P. The cells capacity tested out to around 2750mah each, so 71.5Ah, or 257Wh. This is nice, because hopefully I won’t have to charge it as much… Maybe once every 4 times I take it out. I needed a P group much larger than my main batteries 4P because of my main packs range extender / boost converter that I carry an extra 400 - 600Wh to charge while riding… And that won’t be keeping this voltage boosting pack charged, only the main pack.
The cells are only rated for 5A discharge, so I needed 26 of them to reach my boards max battery load of 80A. Each cell should only need to output ~3A to match the 80A requirement, also I don’t want to push old laptop cells to their 5A limit.
I used fish paper where the 12AWG wires run on each side and before wrapping it all up tight I sealed everything up with electrical tape and around the protruding wires with I padded with some 7mm thick or so thick neoprene rubber and a final layer of craft foam to make sure that no matter what I’m taking any stress/pressure off the nickel strips, since I wasn’t able to fish paper underneath (they were already spot welded on from being in the laptop batteries, and I figured I’d just keep and reuse them as-is so I wouldn’t be soldering on top of the cells directly). I’m pretty sure this will suffice, having the standard terminal ring and battery wrap, since the pack itself was also hot glued like crazy in every single open crevice and taped over again and again.
I don’t have any other pictures of the build, but each side has two 12AWG silicone wires splitting the load to the main +/- which is 10AWG. The whole thing plugs into my loopkey and tested out it adds 4mph to my top end successfully. Tomorrow I’ll be doing some stress tests on it.
Took the 1S 26P pack out for a stress test this afternoon. Thankfully I got out before dark. I calculated that i’d reach a max of 44mph and that’s exactly what happened. yeet!
Overall it seems to work well. My lowest voltage under load was 34 volts and the booster pack under load would drop to 4.0v. Because of this, and so I don’t stress my 10S 25R pack too much (since it likes to sag quite a bit and I rely on the vescs low voltage cutoff of 28-30v often instead of the BMS low voltage cutoff), I’ll probably only be using this pack under full load down to 38 volts on the main pack.
It works great with the charger going at the same time, that’s a relief. I noticed under load, the 26P pack sags at most 0.1V, which I think is crazy compared to 8-9V on my 25R pack. I guess it’s just all that P.
Enjoy the video. Skip to 3:00 min for the speed test.
That’s quick.
I’m looking into making herringbone gear for my DIY Trampa and I was curious what program or design software you used to make your gear pairs? Thanks
I use fusion 360, and pretty sure this is the add-on to generate helical gears, that you can then mirror and join to generate herringbone gears.
https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=9029586664984391977&appLang=en&os=Win64
Ok I’ll check it out. I also found SCAD example but just thought to see if there was easier way. Thanks
Random update time, not much going on.
My belts started skipping on my worn down 20T motor pullies. So, I took some time this weekend to beautify and refresh the board a bit while changing up the gearing.
Otherwise, I’ve gone through many damp paper towels cleaning this thing up. Winter, snow melt, salt and mud are a bitch.
I like how the carry handle allows it to sit on its side. I always get really annoyed trying to work on mine while its on its side and it keep tipping over.
Hey! Finally made it low. I probably don’t want to go any lower… I’ll need to really watch out for cracks and shit now. Whatever!
lol, it looks like you got an engine in the back XD
Went out for a quick ride- Hooked up esc monitor. Calibrated controller. Turned on board. Started rolling. Accelerated just fine for a few seconds until it went full brake. Then it stopped. And it shot out from under me full speed in reverse. I just watched my board fly full speed into the curb, motors first. Thankfully it stopped there. The motors seem fucked. My boost converter thing is probably fucked. The enclosures seem fine, hopefully I can salvage the components.
What would cause this kind of behavior? A faulty receiver?
My board goes absolutely nuts for the last few minutes of power of the remote battery. Just random accel and braking. Could be as simple as faulty info from the remote because low battery. Or the receiver could be at fault.
What remote you using?
Nano-X. I’ve never had any issues like this with low battery. I can tell when it’s low because it will start blinking for a while, then the LED will dim out to nothing and it was solid bright green.
You’ve found your problem 