That looks very cool, I’m interested in how stable it is at speeds over 30 mph and what differences you feel.
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Stable as heck up to 40mph. I am starting to consider gearing back to 20/32 now.
Eight clicks from full loose out of 20 clicks total… My foot got the tense wobz when blinded by some high beams on a downhill, and the damper kept me on course 100% as opposed to normally getting a bit tad bitty squirly when getting the tense wobs.
I think i’ll take some time with 20/36, for now, until I feel the urge to push higher than 40mph more often.
Oh and V2.5, quite more effective with the damping due to rigidity of the new mounts. I am a happy man. Time to rest.
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I still noticed some ‘play’ or give in the v2.5 mount on the top… So I decided to really clamp the protruding/offending portion down to the deck tonight with a bolt on rigidity enhancer/‘stiffener’ that clips around the deck, bolts to the deck, and press fits over the existing mount so it basically cannot have any play anymore.
Well, now there is no play there, but there is still some small give in the motor mount clamp side of the mount. Going to work on a beefed up (even further) version of that soon.
Pics:
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Fixed the motor clamp side of things now. I cannot see any more play. I added a third screw hole on the mount for a grub screw to screw into the motor clamp, seems this adds a noticeable amount of extra rigidity along with the raw thickness.
Oh yeehaw. Oh jeez. I can really feel the damper now. Feels like normal with the damper turned down, and wow… with literally almost zero play in the system now, when the damper is turned up high it feels so interesting. The fact that I can just turn up or down the rear truck responsiveness with a clicky knob… Still in love.
Pics now… Need to grab some even longer m5 pan heads to fully thread the nylocks.
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That’s some citizen science right there, 'Grats man!
I have missed a line or two here, but is it possible to just like saw off the unused part or something without leaky-leaky?
Thanks boss. No, unfortunately, the whole range of motion is used by the damper and all of it’s needed. I was considering tucking it under the board instead but since it’s also dewedged to 25 degrees I wouldn’t get the full range of motion/less damping/much more complicated mounting. It would be out of the way at least, but as it is now on this deck even it’s pretty much out of the way as long as you are aware it’s there. Loving riding it so far.
Also quick update for the thread, finally replaced the m5x30mm bolts with m5x35mm to hold the clamp side of the mounts on tight. So far up to 43mph and a week or so of riding I haven’t got any instability yet.
Some new thoughts on going over rough/uneven terrain… Such as odd dips in pavement and the like… Unlike a regular setup, the damper almost makes it feel floaty over the uneven terrain… Kindof an odd feeling, not uncontrollable floaty, almost like a controllable type floatieness as opposed to just sending it and letting the board go where it will go while navigating uneven terrain on a regular setup.
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Cool stuff… I wonder what versions mountainboards could use of these dampeners…
Looks like u have put a lot of work into this to make it work on a longboard… Congrats for that.
Not sure what else to add… Still a bit amazed that someone (like you @skatardude10) has devoted the time to sit and craft this out…
It might be that with this new steering system doesnt have to be invented to make the ride stable and predictable 
–
Anyways… Thanks for inspiration… If I do come up with a need to go faster in future, I will definitely look into this and how to make it work. Seems really worth the effort.
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Just to update this thread, I’ve since Printed some pneumatic 6x2 hubs, and Constructed a boost converter range extender thing that integrates with the steering damper mount.
I wanted to update this thread though because of the gears I’ve recently printed and installed. Nylon motor gears and PETG wheel gears.
Here’s a video of them in action…
As you can tell, there is some noise. It sounds like a spur gear setup to me though, not much louder. They are heavily Teflon lubed, and after quite the distance riding, the gears are still cool to the touch… They are so far holding up great. Also, if they get dirty they tend to clean themselves up nicely upon accelerating for a bit 
To deal with the noise and change up the gear ratio a tad for more speed I’ve designed some herringbone gears to try next- the PETG wheel herringbones are on the printer right now… Here’s the nylon motor gears… They mesh so damn smooth, mmmm!!
Herringbone CAD renders in the photos thread: No words...just pictures delete words! - #6965 by skatardude10 - ESK8 Builds - Electric Skateboard Builders Forum | Learn How to Build your own E-board
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Welp, got the Herring-Bones on there!
and my golly-jee whillickers bobby, are they quiet.
Here’s a video comparison of spur vs the herring-bones gears: http://youtubedoubler.com/pOem … I’d play one at a time… maybe this is obvious.
//this is a rant// I have a feeling there is the idea that 3d printed parts are not all that viable. I would say, so far… being that most of my build is 3d printed, I have ran 3d printed wheel pulleys and now the nylon motor pulleys I have been running that have shown minimal wear and arguably have held up in time better than my aluminum belt pulleys, that all-in-all I feel like 3d printed parts (to include motor pulleys in nylon) are totally viable. This is literally sex… well, okay, maybe not that good… but to be able to change gear ratios in less than 24 hours with a few re-prints… for a geared drive, to not have to spend hundreds of doll-hairs on metal gear systems… a bit of fusion, cura, and waiting… golly jee whillickers. //end rant//
Anyways, the speed is just right for me now at 16/46 gear ratio… max out around 35-38mph. And, I don’t have any video or audio to check but I do feel like the herringbone gears are even quieter than my belt setup… not to mention the instant torque and insanely awesome free-roll being some other huge positives in favor of gear vs my old belt setup. Things are really staring to look more and more perfect as time goes on. God… what else can an eskate be these days, huh? anyone got any other good ideas? please hit me up…
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They look very well done and the prints came out really well from what I can see. Its great that you can make more complex gears like herringbone through these more inexpensive materials.
I was expecting the rant part to comprise of list of points explaining why it wouldn’t be viable but it just makes me want to buy a printer now 
I don’t even know how expensive cnc versions of these would cost to make 
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Thanks…
And quality printers can be had these days for ~$200 …
If it doesn’t come in handy for eskating for you, there are literally a million other things you could do with it around the house. In the year and a half since I got mine I have gathered up 6 gigabytes of things I have printed for all sorts of random useful things, and my thought as I was buying it was “Hmm, I know this will be useful but I have no idea what the hell I am going to do with it…” not having a clue in my mind what I might use it for… just one example for my wife that echos many- “Why get that for $35 when I can literally print it for almost free (~3.2 cents?) in 5 minutes?”
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What printer are you using for your gears and pulleys?
You’ve had to account for nylon shrinkage as well I’m guessing?
Eager to know difference in terms of sounds too if you get a chance to record them
I can tell you what not to buy … a Tevo tarantula. They seem to have very good reviews but all I get is a blocked nozzle nearly every print, maybe I’m doing something wrong though 
Very frustrating
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Yeah with what I’ve been able to look up. That was probably the best choice maybe a feq years back in terms of diy kits but always seemed to be plagued with issues.
The ender 3 look like the best choice at the moment
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Yes, that came out about a month after my purchase… just my luck
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Seeing @skatardude10 with making complex gear designs made from relatively cheap materials which do hold up to our uses may just push me to invest in one after my first board is running well
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I can def recommend the ultimaker printers, we have them at school and they make some pretty insane prints
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Ughh ultimaker 
wish I had a couple thousand dollars lying around lol
Please tell me you’re not using an ultimaker @skatardude10
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Nah, lol… That thing is way too expensive for me.
I am using the Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. It took a few modifications to get it printing reliably with good quality though: frame braces, filament guide plate, vibration dampeners, full enclosure, filament dust filter, all metal hotend upgrade to be able to heat up the nozzle a heck of a lot hotter for nylon, replacement bearings, replacement y axis thickened bed holder frame, glass print bed, y axis belt rigid idler bearing mount, removed spring belt tensioners, marlin firmware upgrade…
It took some time to get it all going good.
If I were to buy today, I hear the ender 3 is great, and I would have gone with that… Much less work to get it printing well. Make sure it has (or you can get) an all metal hotend for whatever you get, and that whatever you get can reach a bed temp of at least 100C and hotend temp of at least 260C… An enclosure and high temps are essentially for printing nylon. And yes, all these parts went through a couple iterations to test fitment and get the size after shrinkage just right. I build in about 0.3mm of play on the inner faces to account for shrinkage where it slides onto the motor.
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Woah its almost like you replaced at least half of the parts and upgraded the rest. Thats cool that you got it to print that well and was worth it.
Yeah all metal hotend sounds like a good place to start with upgrades. Not sure how hot the bed can get on the ender 3. I’ll give it some more thought and try to justify getting one though probably would be easy to justify it even for just esk8 applications lol. Thanks for all the great info. Interested to see the build development
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